Super Jet Factory B Pipe Install

Same as I got

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those hi and low settings where for the high and low speed screw, not the screws on the pipe
for the pipe, he told me to set the bottom to half a turn and leave the top and middle closed since i'm in cold water
 
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How did you end up getting the caps off?

drilled a pilot hole then used a screw and pulled them out with plyers

edit:ended up having trouble with two of them, so i drilled a few holes in a straight line across the cap, then i used a flat head screw driver and broke them loose by turning the cap.
 
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If you haven't put different flame arresters and removed choke plates no need for the pop off change with the springs.
Is there much benefit in removing the choke plates? Just wondering because I'm removing the knob & cable to use the hole for a bilge fitting & was thinking about also removing the choke assembly from the carbs. Also, if I remove the choke plates & shaft, should I fill the holes?

Sorry for the hijack standup-rider.
 

RedTurboMr2

09 SuperJet
Location
Ontario, Canada
I haven't had a chance to work on my carbs yet, but i was told that, to install the adjusters on the carbs, you'll need to remove the choke setup. Once i have everything setup, i'll let you know what i have my needles set at.
 
Is there much benefit in removing the choke plates? Just wondering because I'm removing the knob & cable to use the hole for a bilge fitting & was thinking about also removing the choke assembly from the carbs. Also, if I remove the choke plates & shaft, should I fill the holes?

Sorry for the hijack standup-rider.

You don't need choke, especially if you have the stock flame arrestor.. Just put your hand on the air intake and there is your choke. I have my bilge switch on the choke hole. Just remove the cable, nothing else on the carb side.
 
You don't need choke, especially if you have the stock flame arrestor.. Just put your hand on the air intake and there is your choke. I have my bilge switch on the choke hole. Just remove the cable, nothing else on the carb side.
This I know. I'm interested to know if there's a noticeable improvement in performance from removing the airflow restriction.
 
Hey guys, i finally got the adjusters and 95g springs. But my question now is. How do i know when the adjusters are completely closed? do i turn till there's tension and that i can hear the spring make noises, or should it bottom out. I notice that they keep turning untill the crossbar touches the carb. Do i have to grab a hacksaw and cut it down a bit more? or should just removing the caps be enough. I hope you guys know what i'm talking about. Thanks
 
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djraider700

lol wut?
Location
South Jersey
I used a dremel to cut down the shoulders around the tuning screws on my carbs when I installed the t-handle adjusters. Had to cut about 1/8th inch off so the t-handle wouldn't bottom out before the actual screw did.
 
ah ok. do i also use the spring and washer that was on the stock adjusters? or just use the new adjusters with no spring/washer?

edit:eek:h and also, i was looking at some tuning sites and came across this http://www.ehow.com/how_8750726_adjust-jets-jet-ski-carburetor.html

it's talking about adjusting the jets and the high/low speed adjusters? i though i just had to bottom out the main 135 jets and then only have to play with the high/low speed adjusters.
 
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GReenANt

GReenAnt
Location
Indianapolis
i wouldnt trust anything on that website. I would install the new jets and set the carb adjusters and pipe adjusters to whats in the instructions and ride it. If its not running properly describe on here what the issue is and people can help diagnose the issue. also read through the mikuni sbn manual.

My motor ran piss poor after i put the new motor in just tweaked the screws a little and it runs great no damage done. as long as you stop riding if it doesn't seem right it shouldn't do any damage.

www.mikuni.com/pdf/sbn_manual.pdf
 
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k, i just played with them again, and the adjusters seem to start getting pretty tight right before they're about to bottom out, i can keep turning it to bottom it out, but it's start to get stiffer and stiffer. is there anyway that i could be going too deep? i was planning on setting up like wamilton suggested "half turn on low and half turn on high". I'm thinking i should just go half from crossbar bottoming out, i'm thinking i should have room to play with since most people say to set it at 1 and a 1/2 open, and you tune in 1/8th increments.
any suggestions?
 
hey guys, i finally had a chance to put it in the water and i don't think it's running 100%. It seems to run pretty good when i punch the throttle, and high speed passes seems pretty good, but whenever i fall or if i let it idle in the water, it seems like something builds up and i have to bleep the throttle a bit to get it to clear and then it goes. It's much faster than before but i think it needs to be adjusted a bit more. Can it maybe be my idle that's too low, or should i need to touch the low speed needle a bit. I notice that it smokes more than before, i also notice that the exhaust hole in back of the ski is black.

edit: oh, and i notice that the water coming out the pisser is very hot. should it be very hot, or just warm, i never noticed this before, only reason why i notice it now, is because i have it angled high and it sprays my leg.
 
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D-Roc

I forgot!
Tune your idle set screw and then your low speed adjuster in the water on the trailer. Set it for the smoothest idle. Sounds like it may not be quite tuned proper and is rich and loading up with fuel at idle.
 
what do you mean by tune the low speed adjuster in the water on the trailer? do i have to pretend that i'm riding it while it's on the trailer or something? i thought i tuned the idle pretty good. sounds great and holds a nice idle, as for the low idle, i'm not really sure. i have it at 1 turn out.
 

Byeai

"Cheetos-Man"
Location
Melbourne FL
Strap that bitch to the trailer and turn it on and tune the idle with it still straped to trailer

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I did read the manual, and i understand that the idle and low speed adjuster affect each other. that's what i'm not really understanding. once i adjust the idle for a smooth idle, shouldn't the idle change once i play with the low? i'll try to adjust the idle when it's in the water with a load on it, that will probably help. Sounds like i'm running a lil rich though, exhaust outlet is black. And should the water coming out of the pisser be super hot? Or is my engine over heating?
 
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