Custom/Hybrid Jloria's "Ah, freakout!" build...2012 Superfreak -4.3

[N3vrSat1sfied]

Not at all...standard marks

but the entire ebox setup was done by JSS...i had to finish up a few things but I made sure everything was good to go

I think the most credit has to go to Jetmaniac...

It's very well built...I added a nice OEM starter and a nice Bendix just to be safe...he also has the carbs dialed in...

only took about 10 secs for it to fire up...the motor is strong

I think as a whole, everything is working well together.

I want no worries this summer if I can help it.

I agree with the engine being strong, Im sure you saw my start up video. My wallet forced me to cut a few corners though and use a couple of used parts. I left my stator at oem, running the MSD enchancer (which I just confirmed that is what Chris recommends). I am curious to compare the 38's to 44's, so Ill set up a set of 38s I have later this summer when my wallet recovers. lol

 

[jloria]

I agree with the engine being strong, Im sure you saw my start up video. My wallet forced me to cut a few corners though and use a couple of used parts. I left my stator at oem, running the MSD enchancer (which I just confirmed that is what Chris recommends). I am curious to compare the 38's to 44's, so Ill set up a set of 38s I have later this summer when my wallet recovers. lol

I know what you mean...$$$ for sure

 

[KTM434]

Not at all...standard marks

but the entire ebox setup was done by JSS...i had to finish up a few things but I made sure everything was good to go

Stock CDI or enhancer? Enhancer will advance your timing

 

[jloria]

pics from this weekend

installed new ss cotter pin and got steering all finalized



marine grease on pivot bolt for throttle lever

 

[jloria]

odi grips with antiseize

the tapped them up for the rest of the build...

love locking grips...so so easy

glue and wire= not fun

 

[jloria]

prepped FA bolts with marine grease that JM supplies with a small change...changed out the flats to lock washers

ground done FA to fit ADA head + zip tied end of the FA...

blocked off carbs just in case

red msd caps on spark plug boots for extra security

red jegs cheapo spark plug separators

 

[jloria]

ran all my fuel lines prior to starting her up

primer + fuel + pulse+ one way valve + new fuel filters

after suggestions, I will be reducing it down to one fuel line...i ran duals into a y...reduced it down to one fuel line for the 38's...then tapped into that line for my primer

I had some OEM lines but I had already purchased these neons...if they harden, then I will just install OEMS after


cut some 26mm and 9mm padding to fit the battery since it's TINY!!..it was a half a$$ job but it works for now...i will find a proper battery box to use for it or make my own

 

[jloria]

random photos of the aftermath

pads i used for my knees...kneeling pad and 26mm plush padding

i just kept one on each side...next time...I will used 2 26mm padding...very comfy

cart full of parts and pieces

bundle of tools used after each round of shop work

was going to use the pool noodles underneath the engine from side to side but I totally forgot

I was going to put them in between the motor mounts so they would not slide back...

kinda wedged in with enough length that they would not move...I may still try

 

[jloria]

water by pass fittings...

i prefer them near the nose so that I can see them without having to look straight down

 

[Sospikey]

Use the "surplus" fuel outlet on the tank to feed the primer! This will eliminate any risk of getting an airleak to the carbs because of the "t" to the primer.

 

[jloria]

What are you guys using to mount your pole pads?


Dap? Some type of strong double sided tape perhaps?

 

[ProSouth]

dap will work.

 

[jaxrider]

looking good! don't forget you fire extinguisher I got a ticket a few weeks ago

 

[jloria]

looking good! don't forget you fire extinguisher I got a ticket a few weeks ago

That's a bummer man...How much was the ticket?


Mine is missing the level gauge.


I got it in there if they ask...

hopefully breaking her in this week

 

[jloria]

X-METAL CHIN PAD IS RUBBING


X-metal chin pad is rubbing on my trim cable and especially my throttle cable

I have the x-metal sleeve as short as it can go.

I have the RRP 50mm riser bars and the blowsion phat clamp with a blowsion -1 turn plate on top of the UMI steering

So basically...

The cables are right up against the chin pad b/c of the height and it's the bars are closer in.

I am thinking about trimming the chin pad to give me more room...just the curve the turns down on top the cables...i will not be cutting the curved ends that hug the pole itself

but before I do so, I wanted to see who else has had this issue and some possible solutions...

I tried running some of the cables and wires underneath, but that doesnt seem to be solving the problem entirely...still rubs...i used zip ties as well


it's a nice piece and I hate to grind it down but I will if need be

Riser bars are in the 'up' position and not rolled back...this may help out, but I want to ride the ski with the pole as short as possible until i figure out what I like. Rolling them back is my last resort if I can help it.

maybe even another chin pad that works out there?

 

[Freakrider]

I use OEM water lines to protect the cables from any rubbing.

 

[jloria]

I use OEM water lines to protect the cables from any rubbing.

i was going to use water lines to protect my trim cable but I had already purchased the split loom.

i could run lines over the cables/wiring, but I still think it would rub down, considering it's rubbing right now

i can possibly eyeball it again tonight

 

[N3vrSat1sfied]

it might not look the best but you can wrap and zip tie turf around rub spots. I do that inside the hull with some of the cooling lines.

 

[jloria]

Went to the shop last night...didnt bring my camera since it was a last minute decision to leave from work

- POLE PAD IS GLUED IN

-MOCKED UP MY DAKINE SURF STRAPS

glassed in some SS weld nuts shown here:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#weld-nuts/=mrvgdv

sanded the tray and the nuts for adhesion...

used 406 filler on the bottom of the nuts so they would stick to my strap marks + add some strength

then put 9oz S-glass around the nuts + on top of the filler since it permeated through the holes a bit


i am heading out to the shop after work again...my plan is to run the 1st breakin on friday...

more pics up tonight

 

[Buckwild12]

You have got to cut the x-metal pad back to the very top (just a little time on the grinder), this is problematic especially with riser bars, mine are 75 mm. or as an alternative, you can drill the hole an inch back of the stock hole which moves the pad farther forward and away from cable issues. Also a few well placed zip ties that keep the cable out of the way of other things are invaluable. if not you will be replacing cables at least once a year.