Custom/Hybrid Jloria's "Ah, freakout!" build...2012 Superfreak -4.3

[jloria]

more nose plate / limiting rope pics

 

[jloria]

***QUESTION***

my steering gets bottomed out before it hits the steering stop...

i am going to adjust this over the weekend...

My question is this:

Since I ground down the stop, the nozzle is angled a bit more...Any problems associated with this much throw?

Last I rode a few years back, I preferred or got used to quicker steering but didnt think ahead enough about the steering stop..Any thoughts?




In pic#2...
there is a small gap, but I will be adjusting the steering cable so that the plate stops here...


In pic#1...
I ran the cable underneath the plate. I had it on top but it seemed to have a bit of an angle to it. I saw the angle and decided to run it on the bottom. As you can see, I have almost the same angle on the bottom.

Does it matter if it's on top or bottom? Pros and cons?

 

[jloria]

I'm digging your "screw it I wanna ride" attitude. Get that thing done so you can ride! I finally got my ski back in the water yesterday, now I'm itching to ride again!

I know right!

I really dont like the firewall and the turf looking that way but aint nobody got time for dat

Hopefully...I can start her on Sunday

 

[KTM434]

***QUESTION***

my steering gets bottomed out before it hits the steering stop...
My question is this:

Since I ground down the stop, the nozzle is angled a bit more...Any problems associated with this much throw?

Last I rode a few years back, I preferred or got used to quicker steering but didnt think ahead enough about the steering stop..Any thoughts?

I told you to grind the steering plate rather than the steering stop
Quick steer is preference but good IMO. You may need to mount the steering cable pivot inward on the steering plate to avoid bottoming the cable before hitting the steering stop. You definitely don't want the cable to limit your steering before hitting the steering stop! That'll snap a cable or cable mount quickly

 

[jloria]

I told you to grind the steering plate rather than the steering stop
Quick steer is preference but good IMO. You may need to mount the steering cable pivot inward on the steering plate to avoid bottoming the cable before hitting the steering stop. You definitely don't want the cable to limit your steering before hitting the steering stop! That'll snap a cable or cable mount quickly

Def will have it the plate stopped by the stop...say that 5 times...rather than the cable...

U did say to grind down the plate but I liked the idea of the stop a bit better...but u didnt say rather than the stop good sir

 

[swapmeet]

x2, I went through two cables before I figured that out the hard way. Take your time on the adjustments, its worth it in the long run.

Dont think it matters top or bottom (that's what she said) as long as it doesn't bind.

 

[jloria]

pole spring

just ran cooling hose over some fuel hose to protect it from damaging the hull...

well see if it works, if not...I will run a plate in the future

seemed to give me the right amount of tension too

View attachment 218694View attachment 218695View attachment 218696

***FYI***

For some reason, this setup did not give me enough tension as I had hoped. I was hoping for a spring setup that would keep the the pole about a foot above the hood...

Unfortunately, the pole came right on down to the pole pad once everything was bolted to the bars and steering was setup.

I ground down some of the pole bushings to get the SF plates in there, but now I have a small gap

If I tighten the pole bolt up too much, I am afraid that It will want to pull the plates out of the glass

I will figure something out...It's a pain to take it apart but I just may have to do that to run a different spring. The other problem is that I have the nose plate setup for this spring.

Learning curve I suppose...

 

[KTM434]

You could have a booster plate made up for the pole spring to add tension. Or you could even just keep adding bigger hoses to keep layering them up and add tension to the spring before wasting money welding aluminum plates on. That way you'll know if you can use this spring or if you need stiffer. Worst case scenario it'll get you by till you figure out a better idea...

 

[madness maker]

man i have been here, i dreaded taking the pole brackets back off etc..You could bend the spring downward on the straight part close to where it starts to loop around the pole bolt, will in turn make it stiffer,(you can do this while its on the ski) i have done this on my girls freak using the kawi 650 spring. i used a open end/box wrench combo wrench and a prybar, think it was around a 3/4" wrench size, put the open end part over the spring as close to where it goes around the pole bolt, then slide the prybar through the box side of the wrench, then kinda line up the prybar on the same plane parallel with the spring and twist it,it takes some force and control to keep it all from poping off, but works well once you get it. (just make sure u bend it the correct way

 

[jloria]

I will figure out something this weekend after I eyeball it and come up with a plan...

That's one thing that I would recommend to incorporate into the nose design on the freak if at all possible.

Or maybe even come up with some mini springs for each side of the small x-metal bolts...who knows

maybe is should just get used to the tensioner style but dang I hate them...they almost ruin the riding experience for me

 

[KTM434]

I have the tension style and don't even notice it. It's not stiff at all, it'll hold the pole up if more than 45 degrees up but will fall if lower. I just ride and don't think about it

 

[jloria]

more pics...worked on the ski wed night, friday night and all day today

got steering stop issue worked out...had to trim some of the cable end down and use the 2nd steering throw hole for it to work...all good now

got steering centered as well

Installed split loom around trim cable and thrust dust cover. Filled trim tube with black silicone. Ski needs to be cleaned. Lots of dust.

Green doesnt match...color online was much different but i ran it anyways




coupler aligned...had to grind the motor mounts down but it sits perfect now...

engine in...mounts in torqued...

surf straps on top of wamiltons furrowed washers( they replace stock)

coupler cover on with lock washers

 

[jloria]

ebox in with rubber grommet for vibration and lock washers

ocd tidy bilges in and setup

used captured straps for water box...this is well worth the extra $$$$$

had to wire some of my JSS stuff...he left them uncompleted just in case I needed some more length

 

[jloria]

final installment of b pipe and cooling lines

had to open up throttle cable holder to house JM's larger cable

marine grease on head pipe gasket for easy removal and blue loctite per JM + torqued to specs

ran ground cable through zip ties

 

[jloria]

drilled holes for water bypass fittings...

wrapped fire extinguisher in hyrdro-turf...its sits underneath the stinger...wedged next to the water box and against the foam/side of the hull...

also have some reusable zip ties the wrap around the b-pipe...it was very secure...plan on using more zip ties...

hopefully this will work and not go flying around in the hull while keeping me legal...i can barely get it out if marine patrol insists...

 

[jloria]

ok... here's what's going on here

i wanted to use the FCV but also wanted to be able to flush the ski directly from the bypass fittinngs outside the hull...

i made some quick disconnects to not jack up the FCV valve while doing this...

i just disconnect the FCV valve for flushing but stay tuned...



i did all this work in anticipation for my new blowsion pisser backflush kit

BUT

it doesnt fit inside the pissers...i have several types and it doesnt fit inside any of them...

I am not sure if it's designed this way but it sucks...i will have to grind some material down or send it back to blowsion...



it comes with 3 lines and a brass insert to plug up one the lines...


ran out of small hose clamps too...zip ties it is

 

[jloria]

more to come tomorrow...

running fuel lines and carb setup..primer lines...etc...

also put some foam in the battery box for my new battery thanks to Phil...good peeps...

 

[ProSouth]

I've thoroughly enjoyed this build thread. Good pics. Thorough procedures. And very clean! Good job man. These hulls are top notch and do everything you could ask for.

 

[GIL]

Don't sweat the Blowsion back flusher. The fittings are STUPID tight going into your pisser. Every one Iv'e had in my hands was the same way. LIGHTLY rotate the metal tubes of the flusher that go into you r pissers in some sand paper and they will fit great. LIGHTLY being the key word here. PS-I sooo wish I had your patience!!! And your FREAK!!! lol GREAT JOB!!!

 

[jloria]

I've thoroughly enjoyed this build thread. Good pics. Thorough procedures. And very clean! Good job man. These hulls are top notch and do everything you could ask for.

thanks so much

its starting to wear on me just b/c i have so many irons in the fire

i also look at other threads and think...man, I should have done that instead...it's been a pretty big learning curve getting back into skis and they take so much work its crazy

I tell you what...

just regarding space alone...it would be nice having a PFP and a smaller tank...i know that's mostly a freestyle thing but man these skis are tight...

I am also used to working on a 2 stroke dirt bike, which in comparison, is very spacious and a cinch compared to skis

I just want it done at this point, but dont want to sacrifice quality...the problem with quality in this case= $$$

they are def not cheap....

i have mismatched hose clamps etc...

and there are many things that I would do different of course if I had my druthers but I just want to get on the water next weekend

if you come down to jax...come take it for a spin dood!