Super Jet Keepin it Square **DONE** (for now)

This is my first stand up. Before this summer the last only time I had ridden one was '88. Owner before me did and awesome job at bringing this ski back to life. I was a boat mech for about ten years and then went into aircraft mech. Just became an inspector so all my tools went home.

Here is where the fun begins.

When I got the ski it had a fresh 62t/62t 701 motor and pump, RN pole and a Hooker 9/15.

This summer I added a Factory Limited B-Pipe, TDR RN waterbox, Blowsion Tornado flame arrestors and had the head milled as far as safe.
 

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First day of work and 40lbs of waterlogged foam later.

Got my performance starter packages.

I want to keep the original lines of a SN but a little lower.
 

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Kohldanielzimmer

Sierra Nevada Runoff Rider
Site Supporter
Location
Ahwahnee, CA
ski looks really clean. Lots of nice parts.

One question- Did you have to modify the hood to use the oem flame arrestor with the dual carb 38s? Mine was hitting the air/ water drain on the hood liner/.
 
The guy that originally set it up just removed the hose and cut back the outlet. I made up a hose with a sheet of rubber that I could get between the intake and the hull because I didn't like water dumping right on top of it.

Tornado flame arrestors eliminated prob and gave me access to adjustor screws
 
I have a new vacuum pump so I can bag all of the composite work. Plan is to completely remold hood, lower nosecap, widened tray w/footholds, carbon fiber lowered exhaust tube shortened pole with RN bracket. The ski handled awesome with the sponsons on it so I really dont feel the need to mess with the hull. All in all I still want it to look like a Square
 
So I used the OEM nose cover as basic mold and I got basic profile as to how the nose will look. I now need to start the hood design before I go any farther on the nose.

If anybody has an opinion one way or the other; should I or should I not keep the external fuel fill.
 

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So I cut up the hood tonight. I took off an inch of the channel and a 1in ito 1/2in pie cut on the lower section. Started fitting the pole. I cant believe the difference it made to lower it DSC00745.JPG DSC00753.JPG DSC00760.JPG DSC00759.JPG
 
So company sent me out of town for a week and a half and I still have three more trips to do over the next month. I took my E-box with and got it finished up. Bad news is this will put me way behind good news is is that it will pay for my build.

Home for a couple days so I am getting my hood dialed. Got my seams done with a new ridge on. I lowered the front more the match the new style line. I know some will think this is a lot of bondo but dont fret. This is a plug for a mold that new hood will be made from. The only thing that will be salvaged from this hood will be the seal ring.

I like to use primer because it pulls everything together and let you see what it will actually look like. I had originally shaved the channel down evenly untill I painted and realized it needed to match the bottom half more.
 

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I had a question for the guys on here that know a lot more than me, which is most of you. I had decided not to touch the hull on my sled but how necessary is it to be able to barrel roll. It is something I would like to try this summer. I am 6' tall and around 200lbs. I do like to do the occasional early morning WOT runs around the lake and not sure if shortening the rear would still let me do that. But I do have it at the point that the mod would be relatively simple so I need to decide whether or not to do it. Thanx for any opinion
 
Back in town for a couple day so I spent some hrs on the ski. I have the hood done and ready for prep to use it as a plug and get my mold made. Got the nose cap design done and ready for prep. And by overwhelming arguments for, added fuel fill to the nose.
 

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I got my Thomas pump on Fleabay. Dude sells rebuilt ones for $100. We use them at work in our composites shop making heli parts. Pump equipment is from Aircraft Spruce. Composites and resins are from US Composites.

Pump setup is relatively simple, it pulls a consistent 20inHg with no regulator or reservoir. Just using standard bagging supplies.

Gotta go out of town for two more weeks so no more progress till I get back. Then it will be balls to the wall
 
I've been back for a week now. I have the hood ready for mold. But two failed attempts to spray release that had to be sanded off. I had to do something else to refocus so I didnt freak out. So I decided to get exhaust pipe started. I have some 2.25" solid round plastic stock waxed it and did my first ever vacuum bag job. I will need to make two of these lengths to get what I need and pipe will have a slight dogleg to get it under the footholds.

62T cylinders are on there way back from PHP with fresh port and 83mm bore with new pistons. Got in Cold Fusion coupler and flywheel cover.

I will be bangin away on this probably every day until it is done there is a long way to go
 

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Quick update. I got my handlepole back from the welder at work (I cut 2in out of my AC Racing RN pole) and got in my Cold Fusion hood hooks and prongs so I can finally start finalizing my nose cap.

Got the mold for my hood pulled. Still have a lot of work to do before I can use it but it is huge that I have it. Lesson learned, don't try to lay up this much material at once with polyurethane resin. It cooks to quick and you end up rushing the job which makes for not the best bagging job. Didn't have the peel ply in good enough and it pulled straight across a couple inside radius's

I am painting the motor before I re-assemble it. Question. Having never worked on these before. I pulled the bed plates to paint them separate, not realizing that they are the case bolts. The case has not been split in any way. Have I compromised the case gasket by doing this?
 

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So I got my exhaust pipe done and bond line reinforced. I used 1/2in honeycomb where footholds will be so that I can keep rear of tray as wide as possible without loosing the rigidity of the side. Also have motor just about complete.

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