Freestyle Krash 50 Cal Footrocket Kit

Status
Not open for further replies.
eastcoastjumper

eastcoastjumper

James
Site Supporter
Location
Long Island
You can jump your solenoid with a screw driver across the terminals. This will tell you if your starter is bad or not.

You can also take the wire going to the starter off the solenoid. Put a voltmeter on D.C. and check the post for 12v when you hit the start button.

Set the volt meter to ohms and check your start switch for continuity.

3 quick tests and you'll know what's wrong and what to replace


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
chixwithtrix

chixwithtrix

Addicted
Location
Houston
Ok have some interesting stuff going on. Here is the last 5 minutes in a nutshell.

-Put multimeter on battery itself, reads 12.4
-Removed starter lead on solenoid, hit switch and reads 12.1 on starter side.
-Reinstall starter lead at solenoid and jumped the solenoid. Engine fired instantly, must not have turned over one time. Scared the crap out of me.
-Jumped solenoid couple more times with instant starts.
-Tried starting it with the switch like normal and on the first try it started fine.
-Every try after that using the switch the engine would just turn over and over, no start.
-Jumped the solenoid again and instant start.
-Tried starting my switch right after and started.
-killed engine and tried to start via switch and only turn over and over.

Hmmm. I was having intermittent starts where I could jiggle the start wires before and it would usually start again. But I only got one start usually and totally dead after that, not even solenoid click. Jiggle and would start, and so on.

I'm about to search, but how do you check resistance on the switch? Where do you put the probes to check the switch?
 
smoofers

smoofers

Rockin' the SQUARE!!!!
Site Supporter
Location
Granbury, TX
There are four wires in your start stop switch harness that terminate in two connectors at the Ebox. One pair is red & brown and the others are white & black. Unplug the white and black wires at the ebox. Try and start the ski. If it instantly fires there's a good chance that your lanyard switch is going bad. Just know that to kill the motor you'll have to plug the white and black back in - otherwise the stop button or lanyard switch wont work. If the boot on the lanyard switch gets old, it starts to let moisture in and the contacts start to oxidize and not work properly.

No idea why your battery was sparking though and why it initially wouldn't crank....
 
chixwithtrix

chixwithtrix

Addicted
Location
Houston
smoofers said:
There are four wires in your start stop switch harness that terminate in two connectors at the Ebox. One pair is red & brown and the others are white & black. Unplug the white and black wires at the ebox. Try and start the ski. If it instantly fires there's a good chance that your lanyard switch is going bad. Just know that to kill the motor you'll have to plug the white and black back in - otherwise the stop button or lanyard switch wont work. If the boot on the lanyard switch gets old, it starts to let moisture in and the contacts start to oxidize and not work properly.

No idea why your battery was sparking though and why it initially wouldn't crank....
Click to expand...
I think the battery sparking truly wasn't a good ground at the battery. I've been putting it on a certain way and much tighter and haven't had a sparking issues since.

I came in for the night so I'll have to check the switch like that tomorrow. Still boggles my mind I get one good start and it just turns over and over after that.
 
chixwithtrix

chixwithtrix

Addicted
Location
Houston
OCD Solutions said:
I can get you a loaner start/stop switch and solenoid shipped out tomorrow for testing. Can you think of anything else that might be in question?
Click to expand...
Now that is seriously good service!

Fortunately I don't have a deadline, but I do really appreciate the offer. I more want to know what is wrong and I'm at least on a trail now. My husband has a Yamaha switch coming in for his race ski that I'm going to try out. Seems odd two solenoids would be bad, is the 12.4 to 12.1 drop abnormal for the solenoid?

I'll try the switch test tomorrow.

Thanks for the help everyone!
 
OCD Solutions

OCD Solutions

Original, Clean and Dependable Solutions
Location
Rentz, GA
WellI am pretty sure this is all my fault because I convinced you that it was a "relatively easy process",lol.

Normally it is but it looks like we missed the faulty component. I am leaning towards the start/stop myself for all the same reasons already mentioned.

A small drop across the solenoid is probably not too unusual. Their job is a nasty one and the contacts get arced out regularly and build up carbon and scaring.

Not a Yamaha solenoid but a fair example of what arced up contacts look like.

1004_8l_07+starter_solenoid_repair+solenoid_contact_comparison.jpg
 
chixwithtrix

chixwithtrix

Addicted
Location
Houston
When I try something for the first time is seems to rarely go smooth lol. After college I fixed and flipped dirt bikes and got a lot of mechanical knowledge, not so much electrical. In the end it was a waste of time and money for the payoff, but I learned a lot. Still don't know a lot lf things though so I keep chugging away at things.

I wouldn't be surprised if it was the switch, previous owner told me it was from a SN SJ...so its old. Things don't last forever, if it is the switch I'll be happy. Just really want to know the 'what' so I can make a repair plan. It will probably next week and I'll check it out.
 
chixwithtrix

chixwithtrix

Addicted
Location
Houston
I took off the exhaust and replaced all battery cables, wasn't as terrible as I thought since I didn't have to take out the chamber. Closed the bottom pipe jet while I was at it.
So nice to have a large engine bay.

Also tried a loaner start stop switch, started four times in a row, great idle and a lot more exhaust smoke than the previous night. I wonder if it was barely getting spark the night before since it was the one start wonder then just turned over.

Hopefully that was the end of it. Moral of the story is don't be lazy and do it right the first opportunity you get.
 
chixwithtrix

chixwithtrix

Addicted
Location
Houston
Out on the water now. Had perfect, immediate starts all week.

Rode once today, awesome!

Came back and kind of flamed out. Was nearly out of gas. Filled up, started, wouldn't stay idling. Every time I tried to start since then has no spark, no start. Turns over, no go. Jiggled wires, no go.

Enhancer? Something else? Something with the stator area? Phhhhbbbt, fricken thing lol

20170319_120509.jpg


Edit: it sat for a while, turned it over and it coughed once. Put it in the water and rode for like 10 seconds and dropped to 1 cylinder and stayed that way.
 
Last edited:
chixwithtrix

chixwithtrix

Addicted
Location
Houston
Speaking of hood seal, how tf do you get to Krash ones to seal better?

Only realized it when we are washing it after riding yesterday and it had a TON of water in it. I'm thinking even though it is firm to push down, my front pin needs to be lowered to make the front seal better and be even tighter.

That, and the bilge worked, but lost prime easily. Seems like it might be too high in it's mount to get the last bit of water out of it.
 
cam_lg

cam_lg

Location
Sicily, IT
chixwithtrix said:
Speaking of hood seal, how tf do you get to Krash ones to seal better?

Only realized it when we are washing it after riding yesterday and it had a TON of water in it. I'm thinking even though it is firm to push down, my front pin needs to be lowered to make the front seal better and be even tighter.

That, and the bilge worked, but lost prime easily. Seems like it might be too high in it's mount to get the last bit of water out of it.
Click to expand...
Could be coming in from the pole tubes. It rained on my ski a few days ago and there was at least 3 galons of water in it.. soo im going to throw a gopro inside to see where the water comes from
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top Bottom