lol me too, I was going to ask what you meant but didn't want to sound dumb!
Freestyle Krash 50 Cal Footrocket Kit
- Thread starter chixwithtrix
- Start date
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nucleus_coolins
Does things to makes the do goods
- Location
- Bay Area, California
Ya, if u can pull the dollar even with it super tight like that, the seal just aint workin.
Thats a bummer!
Maybe one of those watcon plush seals would better fit
Thats a bummer!
Maybe one of those watcon plush seals would better fit
Big Kahuna
Administrator
- Location
- Tuscaloosa, AL
What about a "U" shaped trim piece installed to the lip of the hood to fill the void. JSS use to have a gasket for a SJ that came with a "U" shaped seal for OEM Hood.
Big Kahuna
Administrator
- Location
- Tuscaloosa, AL
Or, glue some hydroturf around the lip to create a better seal.
- Location
- JAX FL
When using the Krash pole you need 2inch breathing tubes for a better fit. The RRPs are 2.25 and don't fit well at all. You will have trouble sealing the hood until you bolt it down. Even if you get a new seal the hood will remain loose. You cannot use the strap and hood pin at the same time for a good seal because the pin will impead the strap from getting the hood all the way down. If you don't want to bolt it down you are better running just a strap and no pin. My 50cal leaks almost no water and the hood stays on nice and tight... back flip-flop after flop after flop. I have about 60 hrs on my ski now and have it just about right.
just the thought of having to glue a piece of trim or turf where one shouldnt be needed sucks. whether its from krash, tigercraft, rickter, kawi or yamaha, if a fully built ski for the price had an extra piece of material glued to stop it from leaking, id be upset.
I think a new hood seal would do good.
chixwithtrix
Addicted
- Location
- Houston
I am kinda confused here. Maybe because I've had some whiskey shots...
So you are saying to not use the pin and just the ratchet strap?
I have whatever breather tubes came with the stage 2 kit from Krash.
chixwithtrix
Addicted
- Location
- Houston
I am very close to buying a 1100cc DASA Rickter XFS carbon look that I have ridden for $11.5k if I can sell my SXR and talk my husband into it. Will keep the Krash for a freeride ski....but I am beyond tired with it's half-assed cheapness.
- Location
- sask, canada
I wasn't talking about the pole bracket area. The method I referred to was for detecting leaks in the rest of the hull. You already have your scupper plugged, all of the cooling and other lines hooked up, so just fill the entire hull with water up to the bond line and then you'll be able to see every spot that it's leaking. Essentially you're doing the opposite of what putting it in the lake does.
chixwithtrix
Addicted
- Location
- Houston
Yeah...pehaps, but there are a lot of electronics in there I'd rather not test the integrity of. I need to silicone the trim and throttle tubes I know, and planning on blocking off the scupper from the inside. If the problem persists after that I might take desperate measures and fill if with water.
- Location
- Long Island
Yeah my sh it don't leak a drop.
It's not a huge bead of silicone, you're close but it's different.
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chixwithtrix
Addicted
- Location
- Houston
I like that...hm. what can you use to coat the hood so it doesn't adhere?
Yeah my sh it don't leak a drop.
It's not a huge bead of silicone, you're close but it's different.
- Location
- JAX FL
Notice the Tiger Craft pin. The hood slides over the pin and allows the hood to be ratcheted down. The pin is just there to prevent the hood from coming off once you put the cotter pin in place.
- Location
- Long Island
Hey Quattro modelos, keep your eyes off my pin
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- Location
- JAX FL
That little limp pin? LoL you need a big stiff pin like me...
- Location
- sask, canada
I think you're over thinking things. The only electronic item that could possibly get wet from doing this 100% effective way of determining your leaks and getting to the bottom of The majority of the problems that are preventing you from enjoying your brand new ski is the stator. Which, from the sound of how much water your hull gets in it while riding, would have already seen the ill effects of water intrusion. It is definitely not a desperate measure. It's a test that would take very little time and effort but would show you any and all water intrusion points at or below the bond line.
chixwithtrix
Addicted
- Location
- Houston
For sure, but I am stubbornly aprehensive to licorice anything up after the electical issues I've had. I know I need to silicone the trim and throttle connections, if I still have water coming in after that I will try the water trick...there really aren't any other places that it could come in as much as it is. I put too much faith in the Krash bungs not leaking.
I dont see the cheapness my new 50cal went together fairly easy in just few days and i pounded surf for 3 days at carolina free ride with realy no issues except of my own
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chixwithtrix
Addicted
- Location
- Houston
The hull itself is pretty nice, but have you perused the rest of the thread to see how many issues I had? And other people's threads with messed up engine plates, pumps breaking, threads pulling out, etc etc etc. Some hulls & pumps are better than others, it is the quality control that is lacking. No consistancy.
Big Kahuna
Administrator
- Location
- Tuscaloosa, AL
You mean give up racing.............. Blasphemy................ Stop with that forked tongue witch doctor poop..........
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