ksarge's superjet build

Boat looks real good Kevin. Nice job on the hood.

Nate is right about the uv resistant resin. I used Aluzene resin for the carbon work on my ski. It can be bought from Fiberglass Hawaii and won't yellow with uv exposure. I'd definitely use it on the pole if you are going to do it. Fast cure resin is the way to go, I used medium and it seemed to take forever in a 75-80 degree garage(waste oil heater is a beautiful thing haha).

Also make sure you put a lot of light on your glass when you're waiting for the resin to cure, it really speeds up the process.

Keep up the nice work!

Good info Zach, thanks. That's what I was worried about, I don't have much experience working with carbon but all the jobs I've done with glass have yellowed once cured. I'll look into that stuff and see if I can get a small amount just for the pole and nosepiece. As far as clearcoat goes, is there anything specific I should use or will I be fine with just regular auto clear. I have some 2 part urethane stuff already and am wondering if it will work, that's why I'm asking.

I can keep my garage at around 70 this time of year, so fast cure would be my best bet?
 
Last edited:
Great job Kevin, I have a feeling we are gonna have a great year of riding in 2010!

It's definately gonna be a fun year! It's only october and I'm already ready to break som s*%$!!!!!

So when do we get to see a build thread for your new ski?

And when are you gonna change that username? If I didn't know any better I'd think you were one of those "I bleed green" kawi douchers :ugh2:

just messin kawi guys!:jester:
 
Last edited:
checl out the thread on texalium in the general section. You may want to lay down some biax first then texalium for bling effect.

Why lay down biax first?

Alright, so after doing some more reading I gathered that it's pretty much just colored fiberglass? Apparently it would be a pain to wrap something like a pole with it because it dosen't like to conform to curved surfaces. Unless I get the silver??

I don't know, I'm starting to think I might just wanna hold out and get some light carbon. We'll see
 

Motorheads5

Livin the generation gap
Location
ketchikan alaska
Sarge nice work man this was the thread I needed to kick me in the azz lol I have had a hard time getting enthused about all the glass work. You did a excellent job that turned out really good another use for duct tape lol
 
Sarge nice work man this was the thread I needed to kick me in the azz lol I have had a hard time getting enthused about all the glass work. You did a excellent job that turned out really good another use for duct tape lol


Yeah the glass work definatey sucks, haha. I like shaping and making parts and all and it was exciting at first seeing the hood take shape but now that I'm down to the fine details I have to really motivate myself to get it done and looking really good but it's coming along. The sandings the worst. Sometimes you just wanna go "ehhhh, it's good enough"

Gonna take a break from this one for a couple weeks after tomorrow to help a freind do a little build then I'll come back at it; hopefully with some fresh ideas.
 
Last edited:
Didn't get much done today. Ground the ribs down and filled in the bondline. Still have some touching up to do before I lay glass. Made a template for the side reinforcments too.

Waiting on my resin and glass.....
 

Attachments

  • 18sj2010.jpg
    18sj2010.jpg
    58.9 KB · Views: 115
  • 17sj2010.jpg
    17sj2010.jpg
    55 KB · Views: 117
Figured I'd post a link to to how I did my C.A.T.S. trim, Works pretty good. Gives me 24* of throw after some grinding to the trim ring. I'm going to try and get it to atleast 28*

http://www.x-h2o.com/threads/61565
 

Attachments

  • trimd3.JPG
    trimd3.JPG
    191.3 KB · Views: 110
  • tRIMghjghj.JPG
    tRIMghjghj.JPG
    241.4 KB · Views: 132
  • trim2.JPG
    trim2.JPG
    232.5 KB · Views: 125
  • trim10.JPG
    trim10.JPG
    186.3 KB · Views: 95
  • trim9.JPG
    trim9.JPG
    157.1 KB · Views: 118
  • trimd.JPG
    trimd.JPG
    211.7 KB · Views: 106
Last edited:
How many layers should I be doing. I'm thinking just one but I don't know....

I'm going to be using 17oz cloth. Only light reinforcing, 85% lake riding. (Hopefully less flat water next season) Needs to be able to takes some pancakes.....

Maybe 2? Or 1 but overlap them 5 or 6 inches in the middle?
 

Motorheads5

Livin the generation gap
Location
ketchikan alaska
You know what, I never thought of that... Do you know what kind of kind of valves did he run?

Something like this maybe??

http://www.flomatic.com/index.asp?lg=1&w=pages&pid=174

No there not like that. I will get you some info and post it here if that's cool! I am impressed with them I didn't know they made them specifically for bildge pump's, we all have the same problem. Mark Sickerling's ski has the bildge outlet right below the hood latch, I had mixed feeling's about that idea. Anyway these are $11.00 each
 
Did another cut today. Trying to lower the bars end of the pole. This dropped it maybe an inch.

Traced out a cardboard stencil and taped it on. Gonna glass over that, pop it off, glass it back on, and touch it up with some filler. The extinguisher cavity is staying, don't think the extinguisher will go in it, but I'm too lazy to cut it out and glass over it.

Somebody really needs to take my sawzall away from me.....

Third picture really shows how low it sits now best.
 

Attachments

  • 23sj2010.jpg
    23sj2010.jpg
    53 KB · Views: 172
  • 24sj2010.jpg
    24sj2010.jpg
    60.3 KB · Views: 157
  • 22sj2010.jpg
    22sj2010.jpg
    65.2 KB · Views: 183
Last edited:
I'm gonna laugh the next time I hear somebody whine about not wanting to drill a hole in their ski for a bilge outlet....
 

Attachments

  • 25sj2010.jpg
    25sj2010.jpg
    67.2 KB · Views: 118
  • 27sj2010.jpg
    27sj2010.jpg
    65.5 KB · Views: 148
  • 30sj2010.jpg
    30sj2010.jpg
    51.7 KB · Views: 129
  • 29sj2010.jpg
    29sj2010.jpg
    50.1 KB · Views: 134
  • 28sj2010.jpg
    28sj2010.jpg
    38.8 KB · Views: 135
Last edited:
Top Bottom