Super Jet L7 Tiny Nose
- Thread starter SuperN8
- Start date
Decided to cut off 3.75 inches off the back.
Decided to leave the upper deck and bond line intact at the moment, I am thinking about doing a rockered tail kinda like the new GenIII BoBs.
Decided to leave the upper deck and bond line intact at the moment, I am thinking about doing a rockered tail kinda like the new GenIII BoBs.
Attachments
Now its time to move to the front, this is where I could use some ideas/hints or tips. How much rocker is too much rocker?
I drew a few lines up front but not quite sure of where to start and end this thing. the vertical line represents the 6 foot mark.
for those rockin the AM hulls I could use a little input, if you were to put a framing square along the flat of your hull what would be the length and height of the front end?
I drew a few lines up front but not quite sure of where to start and end this thing. the vertical line represents the 6 foot mark.
for those rockin the AM hulls I could use a little input, if you were to put a framing square along the flat of your hull what would be the length and height of the front end?
Attachments
JGringo
When in doubt, Throttle-out.
- Location
- Lafayette, Louisiana
Looking good. I did something really similar to your build... My suggestion would be to definitely stick with your gut and do the rear-cut like the Bob's. If you try and keep that 90 degree cut-out look, you will have a b!tch of a time getting the glass or carbon to contour nicely.
-Subscribed
Gringo
-Subscribed
Gringo
I have started sanding everything done getting ready to temporary glass everything in place while I still trim and shape to perfection before I start laying down the structural glass.
the Front on the top deck is going to need to be completely redone so forming that with foam is going to be required.
I am however temped to short the hood and hood opening to allow for added room to shape the nose area. Any thought on that?
the Front on the top deck is going to need to be completely redone so forming that with foam is going to be required.
I am however temped to short the hood and hood opening to allow for added room to shape the nose area. Any thought on that?
N3vrSat1sfied
Military Member
- Location
- Fort Worth, TX
Modifying the hood is just gonna add extra weight. You only need enough room to mount a pole bracket and breather holes.
This is true, but I already have to lower the hood to begin with to though, so do I lower and shorten as well.
The picture doen't really show it but the top deck is considerably much wider then the botton deck, where it is cut, and I fear it may look silly if i try to blend in the nose of the top deck to match the bottom with the amount of space that is there.
You'll have to come check it out
Yep I agree plenty of room there to mount that pole,get it nice and close to the nose.... I would definitely lower the hood and make your own liner though, save about 7 lbs , not much but it adds up.
- Location
- Up side down
nice, clean work!!
I also subscribed, pure curiosity!!
I also subscribed, pure curiosity!!
NICE ! finally a build I'm interested in ... Couple of things
1 . Make sure you have room for the tank and water box . When you rocker the bottom you raise the mounting points and it puts the tank higher .
2. How ever you decide to finnish the front ditch the front pole bracket cover. You might be able to save a buck or two and ditch the hood / hull hooks a while having a better seal . I can elaborate to much to type.
3. Consider moving the front deck forward .. This will give you more room to rocker the front and more room for your tank an h20 box. If you do move it , 2 inches is about all you can get if using a B pipe. Make sure the head pipe clears the hood seal area. This also helps balance the COG since you went -3 in the rear. Get it .... cut 3 move top forward 2.
4. Only tac glass until you are ready reinforce . This saves HUGE TIME and weight. Just tac enough to stabilize your mods . Then when you are ready, reinforce it one time with continuous layers. It makes for a stronger structure and you only have to prep the glass once.
5. Widen that tray !
6. Just send me a PM and Ill send a ton of pics . Been thru most of this with the TWEEKER surf build
1 . Make sure you have room for the tank and water box . When you rocker the bottom you raise the mounting points and it puts the tank higher .
2. How ever you decide to finnish the front ditch the front pole bracket cover. You might be able to save a buck or two and ditch the hood / hull hooks a while having a better seal . I can elaborate to much to type.
3. Consider moving the front deck forward .. This will give you more room to rocker the front and more room for your tank an h20 box. If you do move it , 2 inches is about all you can get if using a B pipe. Make sure the head pipe clears the hood seal area. This also helps balance the COG since you went -3 in the rear. Get it .... cut 3 move top forward 2.
4. Only tac glass until you are ready reinforce . This saves HUGE TIME and weight. Just tac enough to stabilize your mods . Then when you are ready, reinforce it one time with continuous layers. It makes for a stronger structure and you only have to prep the glass once.
5. Widen that tray !
6. Just send me a PM and Ill send a ton of pics . Been thru most of this with the TWEEKER surf build
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lol I don’t want to sound like a stalker but I have looked into your build a few times before I starting cutting mine, and if you are willing to help out and share your knowledge I will definitely take you up on that offer. Thanks!!</SPAN>
Just a quick update, with the little time I have to work on this thing progress is moving kind of slow. I am still in the middle of sanding this thing down!! And boy was I naïve to think that sanding wouldn’t be all that bad…wrong!! It is taking much longer than anticipated, I am removing all of the paint from the engine compartment plus a few layers of fiberglass that someone had already laid in the bottom of the hull. I am looking for a completely fresh base, to which I can start my fiber buildup on, needs to be structural and as lights as possible. <o
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I am also thinking about how to shape the nose?? Use Home Depot pink foam to shape or use two part foam?? Thoughts? <o></o>
I have used the pink stuff before but found that it melted using a polyester resin, or maybe was the heat too, which definitely sucked when glassing over. But the stuff is cheap and if I made a booboo it wouldn’t take much to redo. 2-part foam however is a little more pricy but I do know it shapes very nicely. <o></o>
></o>I am also thinking about how to shape the nose?? Use Home Depot pink foam to shape or use two part foam?? Thoughts? <o
></o>I have used the pink stuff before but found that it melted using a polyester resin, or maybe was the heat too, which definitely sucked when glassing over. But the stuff is cheap and if I made a booboo it wouldn’t take much to redo. 2-part foam however is a little more pricy but I do know it shapes very nicely. <o
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N3vrSat1sfied
Military Member
- Location
- Fort Worth, TX
2 part is easy to shape but is more clean up work afterwards.
I am pretty sure that I am going to use the 2-part, little messy but all in all I think it is a little more robust. Although I don't think i would want to keep the foam in all the time, once the glass is laid and dried I think I will remove the foam.
- Location
- amarillo ,tx
what im doing with mine used 2 part foam then shaped it, put bondo on the foam to fill all holes and voids then after i glass i will remove foam and sand all the bondo off the glass from the inside
Well your kinda right. It was the heat created by the poly resin that melted the foam. Epoxy doesn't generate it's own heat but poly does. That's what melted the foam not the resin itself.
I prefer to be a little more forward if your taking 3+ off the rear . Adjustable foot holds REALLY help tuning your position if you are experimenting with hull lengths. They do take time to make ,but they can salvage a poorly balanced ski . A lot of people complain about short hulls tail standing and making it hard to recover . Without adjustable foot holds they are stuck with it. Also moving to top deck forward is not a crazy amount of work..... your IN IT..... can't be half pregnant :drillsergeant:
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