Making of the SNX Hull
- Thread starter Nate_D
- Start date
Big Kahuna
Administrator
- Location
- Tuscaloosa, AL
I have not really kept up on this. but just went through most. Very Impressed. Keep it up. All of you.
- Location
- Fort Myers, Fl
Everything looks awesome and your visual work looks great! I can't wait to hear how it rides. . Also if you do decide to sell parts I would love to get the hood even non visual just want a light weight hood for my square
Keep up the great work
Keep up the great work
- Location
- Houston, TX
Thanks for the kind words. I've had several people PM me about the hood for a stock SN. I don't know if it will sit on a stock SN since I cut out the ridge around the hood opening and blended the sides. There is going to be a revision to the current hood to lower the profile in the back. Once I finish that up, I will probably make a plug/mold for a stock square nose version if there is still interest.
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Vince-Netherlands
Rebuilding my ski's
- Location
- Amsterdam
Very nice, i'm impressed about the skills you had and have created !
Done the same couple of years ago but then i the car stuff, making everything myself as far as i could but lost the interested.
I know the sanding , its a bitch and the itchy glass fiber between clothes and bleeding finger tops haha.
Really nice build, since im new in the jetski world i have been looking every page and inspecting all pics how and what it all looks like and how you have done it.
Makes me want to do something similar just for the fun of the building.
Keep on going, im definitely going to follow this thread !
Done the same couple of years ago but then i the car stuff, making everything myself as far as i could but lost the interested.
I know the sanding , its a bitch and the itchy glass fiber between clothes and bleeding finger tops haha.
Really nice build, since im new in the jetski world i have been looking every page and inspecting all pics how and what it all looks like and how you have done it.
Makes me want to do something similar just for the fun of the building.
Keep on going, im definitely going to follow this thread !
- Location
- clarklake michigan
looks great. i would love one of these hulls!!!!
swapmeet
Brotastic
- Location
- Arlington TX
Been a minute since I've checked in on this thread. HOLY BALLS!!!
Not bad for a Texas boy!
Keep up the good work. At the rate you're learning, you could be very valueable to anyone in the composites industry.
I may have missed it before but, what's is your profession?
Not bad for a Texas boy!
Keep up the good work. At the rate you're learning, you could be very valueable to anyone in the composites industry.
I may have missed it before but, what's is your profession?
- Location
- Houston, TX
Thanks Swap. I work for a big box retailer. If anything I would probably start a little side business making hulls and parts. I don't see composites eclipsing my primary income. At least not without an engineering degree. Anyone can layup fabric with the right training. Design and engineering in the wind and aerospace industries is where the money is at.
Wait until you see what I have planned for the top deck. Visual layer will have 3 different carbon weaves, a carbon/Kevlar weave, and a non structural fabric.
Wait until you see what I have planned for the top deck. Visual layer will have 3 different carbon weaves, a carbon/Kevlar weave, and a non structural fabric.
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- Location
- Houston, TX
Hood still needs a little more trimming to fit right.
Finishing up the top deck today. Have to add pole bolt recesses, fix a slight symmetry issue on the nose, block out the rails since they looked a little wavy, and glue in the XPS for the hood opening. I'm debating on using MDF or XPS for the flange. If I go with an MDF sheet, I will have to use a lot of body filler to bring the rear bond rail down to the board. XPS is just a pain to get glued in and fragile until the Duratec cures.
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Finishing up the top deck today. Have to add pole bolt recesses, fix a slight symmetry issue on the nose, block out the rails since they looked a little wavy, and glue in the XPS for the hood opening. I'm debating on using MDF or XPS for the flange. If I go with an MDF sheet, I will have to use a lot of body filler to bring the rear bond rail down to the board. XPS is just a pain to get glued in and fragile until the Duratec cures.
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- Location
- Houston, TX
Added the recess cuts for the pole bolt and didn't like how it looked. Decided to go another direction.
Cut out the bottom of the pole mount area and cut the foam down another 1.5". 3.5" total height now.
The pole mount is going to be integrated into the top deck. Bolt will run through the inside of the hull. There will be no bracket and from the outside you won't see a bolt, just a clean transition from the top deck to the pole.
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Cut out the bottom of the pole mount area and cut the foam down another 1.5". 3.5" total height now.
The pole mount is going to be integrated into the top deck. Bolt will run through the inside of the hull. There will be no bracket and from the outside you won't see a bolt, just a clean transition from the top deck to the pole.
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- Location
- Houston, TX
The challenge to making this work will be 1) a layup schedule strong enough to withstand the abuse, and 2) bolt clearance for installing/removing pole bolt.
Tantatively layup schedule for the nose/pole mount:
Visual ~7.8oz
Triax 15.6oz
Uni 20.0oz fibers longitudinal
Uni 20.0oz fiber perpendicular to previous
Infusion mesh slightly larger than core balsa
1/4" end grain balsa. Bottom of sides of the pole mount area. This is where the pole will bolt through.
Triax 15.6oz
Uni 20.0oz 45*
Uni 20.0oz -45*
2x2 19.7oz
Total weight of 138.7oz and a 1/4" core.
Layup thickness will transition progressively to the sides ending up at ~60oz
For the bolt, I will either need to source a center threaded bolt or design one and have it made. Other option is to use two bolts and an open bottom pole design allowing access to the nut. I would prefer the former.
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Tantatively layup schedule for the nose/pole mount:
Visual ~7.8oz
Triax 15.6oz
Uni 20.0oz fibers longitudinal
Uni 20.0oz fiber perpendicular to previous
Infusion mesh slightly larger than core balsa
1/4" end grain balsa. Bottom of sides of the pole mount area. This is where the pole will bolt through.
Triax 15.6oz
Uni 20.0oz 45*
Uni 20.0oz -45*
2x2 19.7oz
Total weight of 138.7oz and a 1/4" core.
Layup thickness will transition progressively to the sides ending up at ~60oz
For the bolt, I will either need to source a center threaded bolt or design one and have it made. Other option is to use two bolts and an open bottom pole design allowing access to the nut. I would prefer the former.
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simofx-1
freeride
- Location
- new zealand
wow
- Location
- Houston, TX
Balsa will be predrilled larger than the bolt diameter. The carbon will sandwhich around where the bolt hole will be. The hole will cut through only the carbon, leaving the balsa sandwhiched. The fastener will have a washer large enough to apply pressure to the sandwhiched balsa, not the carbon that is sandwiching the balsa. I wish I had a CAD program to draw it out, it would make a lot more sense than what I just wrote. Basically the balsa will not be cut, will remain sandwhiched on all sides and around the bolt hole, and the bolt/fastener will apply pressure to the balsa, not the carbon sandwiching it.
I've heard of mesh being used inter laminate, though I don't think it is very common. The reason that is in the tentative layup schedule, is because I do not know if the large pieces of balsa will allow resin to reach the fabric underneath it. Mesh will create a channel and allow the resin to flow under the balsa and fully saturate the laminate. I am going to layup a test panel with and without the mesh to determine if it is needed and if there is any noticeable structural differences to the panels. Being that it is sandwhiched and will be essentially a core, I don't see it causing any issues with delamination. But that is only my assumption and that is why I am doing the test panels first.
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I've heard of mesh being used inter laminate, though I don't think it is very common. The reason that is in the tentative layup schedule, is because I do not know if the large pieces of balsa will allow resin to reach the fabric underneath it. Mesh will create a channel and allow the resin to flow under the balsa and fully saturate the laminate. I am going to layup a test panel with and without the mesh to determine if it is needed and if there is any noticeable structural differences to the panels. Being that it is sandwhiched and will be essentially a core, I don't see it causing any issues with delamination. But that is only my assumption and that is why I am doing the test panels first.
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- Location
- Houston, TX
From what I've read, balsa is amongst the strongest. The shape is pretty simple so I don't need the flexibility of the synthetic cores. I am open to suggestions on the core material though. I've only done minimal research in this area, so there is probably a better choice than balsa for my application.
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- Location
- Houston, TX
Haven't really researched divinyl foam, but I thought I read somewhere it was inferior to balsa in strength, but had better conformability...? Aluminum is a possibility, but the potential for galvanic corrosion exists if it is in contact with carbon. Although with it being isolated from salt water, the risk is low. Could also have it anodized to further reduce any chance of corrosion.
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- Location
- Central Illinois
http://www.expresscomposites.com/foamcore.html Lantor Soric is the way to go. Works so good for infusion, Rick Roy uses it..