my sxr freeride boat

djkorn1

kidkornfilms
Site Supporter
Location
Cleveland Ohio
Group K does the flywheels cheap and good. It only will give you about 1/2 of what an aftermarket one will, but it is a cheap mod. I think $75.
 
i have been looking around for a used charging one but cant seem to locate any. i will probably just end up milling my stocker cause an aluminum one isnt worth 600 dollars to me.
 
i cant take it off your hands if you would like me too. i just got 600 bucks for taking cherry logs to a saw mill, so i have alittle more cash to play with. plus i plan on taking loads of cherry for the next few weeks so hopefully i will be rolling in cash
 
oh wait it says charging right on the top haha. do these provide more advanced timing? i am running the FPP timing advance would i have to remove it?
 
Last edited:

Crab

thanks darin...noswad!
Location
Seattle
As is suggested in our assembly instructions, torque is the most important factor in maintaining your flywheel. It is suggested that you re-torque your newly installed flywheel after an hour of conservative riding, and after about 2-3 hours. Regular inspection should take place after each session of riding and should include inspection of the ring gear, bore, keyway and woodruff key. Any unusual conditions should prompt a call to our technical department for an evaluation or suggestions on repairs.
A foul rumor was started sometime in 1994 that "boiling" the flywheel before installation was beneficial, this could not be further from the truth. Boiling the flywheel can damage the magnets and cause the flywheel to fail during operation. Do not boil the flywheel! It is designed to be installed cold, run until warm and then re-torqued to final specifications. Please follow these directions.

It has been suggested by top engine builders like Harry Klemm of Group K and Bill O’Neal of Watercraft Magic, that lapping the flywheel to the crankshaft surface to better seat the flywheel mating surfaces can increase the life expectancy of the flywheel. We agree that this is a good practice, and due to the difficult nature of the process we have not recommended it to the general public. The process requires the use of 320 grit lapping compound spread between the flywheel and crankshaft surfaces (in the bore) and a gentle rotating motion applied to "grind" the inside surface of the flywheel so it matches the surface of the crankshaft. The compound can be obtained at a tooling supply house or automotive parts supply house. Once the anodized surface has disappeared, the compound should be removed and all surfaces cleaned thoroughly. The flywheel can now be torqued using the normal instructions.

650 Kawasaki and 650/701 Yamaha charging flywheels which have the new steel hubs have been engineered to take advantage of a new type of magnet which is extremely powerful. The magnets have an intense magnetic field which causes a slight retardation of the timing. It is recommended that the installer advance the timing on the stator plate approximately 5 degrees to offset this condition. The engine will appear sluggish otherwise. The timing should be set to factory recommendations using factory procedures or using a timing light. We also suggest checking the condition of the spark plugs for indications of detonation.
Jetnetics
 

waxhead

wannabe backflipper
Location
gold coast
in theory that sounds fine
In practice i have found it changes them all over the place at different rpm
it makes you wonder if thatit was as easy as 5 degrees then they would have advanced the magnets 5 degrees to fix the issue themselves
 
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