Byeai
"Cheetos-Man"
- Location
- Melbourne FL
I wasn't trying to be rude or anything honestly just giving you my mistakes and solutions
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Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk
Freestyle new rrp carbon pipe
- Thread starter Jr Freestyle
- Start date
- Location
- sask, canada
I had that issue in my last hull with PFP too, I water locked my 1200 a few times, I started tilting the ski to the side when re-starting also. In my Trixstar I ran a raised, mandrel bent exhaust tube and I haven't had any more issues. I can kneel in the tray and rest for a few seconds, restart it and have no issues, it's nice!
- Location
- Stevensville, MD
Why not run a scupper or one way valve in the exhaust? Plenty of boats run a rubber flap somewhere down the line. I'm sure you could find something the correct size.
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
- Location
- Saskatoon,SK
My waterbox is not raised, only sitting on turf on the battery base. My Rickter exhaust tube in the hull is very low so there is a steep angle from the waterbox. The waterbox pissers is 1/4" on mine and teed off of one of the 4 outgoing pissers on the head.
Oh ok, from the picks it looks higher in relation to the top of the tank and carb plate than mine. Pics can be misleading for sure. Thanks for clarifying that stuff
I had a back flow problem, so I made my own set up to create a plumbing trap. Better to go up then Down. I did a test down on the lake with the water box off. With a straight tube is rediculous how much water rushes in. No more back flow problems.
The only bummer part is its up by the carbs, a 2" might be better there. I just had to massage it but now the carb mounting plate is a lot easier to install and remove.
So I found another rider with the back flow problem so that's makes 4 so far....
The weekend before last water flowed into my engine again just putting ski on the trailer...
After this I went ahead and raised the water box 2 inches and put more angle in the box outlet pluming down to the bulkhead exit.
Now my stinger tip is above the water line just a little.
My question, will raising the stinger 2 inches higher than the manifold exit cause injected water to back flow some ?
The weekend before last water flowed into my engine again just putting ski on the trailer...
After this I went ahead and raised the water box 2 inches and put more angle in the box outlet pluming down to the bulkhead exit.
Now my stinger tip is above the water line just a little.
My question, will raising the stinger 2 inches higher than the manifold exit cause injected water to back flow some ?
- Location
- the jetski grave yard
that WDK rokR 1200 i bought from steve a couple years ago, kept drowning the motor with back flow too. i made a P trap similar to yours but i bought the silicone hoses off ebay for cheap. you can buy 90s and 180s and it looks clean with less clamps.
Remembered on my limited ski I had type 4 dry pipe and I was injecting water into the manifolds coupler end and I had no issues with the injected water getting into the cylinders and that's an up and over pipe so looks like I can raise the stinger end of the RRP as high as I want
Iam within 2 inches of the hood lip now after raising it last week
Iam within 2 inches of the hood lip now after raising it last week
Attachments
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masterblaster
X-H2
is the exh outlet in side the hull much lower in the hulls that are having these issues than others that dont seem to be a issue?
its a tiny water box, if you set it right on the floor of the hull where say the battery would normally go it can easily be below the lakes water surface level...
Not everyone with the same model hull has experienced the issue....
Anothor 2 are same brand but not sure if both are the same model and only one has experienced the issue.
My hull has no flotation so I'd assume it rests lower in the water than say a hull with flotation.
How you restart in deep water and how long you let it float matter too.
With just technique Ive been able to avoid the issue until i could attempt a fix
Not everyone with the same model hull has experienced the issue....
Anothor 2 are same brand but not sure if both are the same model and only one has experienced the issue.
My hull has no flotation so I'd assume it rests lower in the water than say a hull with flotation.
How you restart in deep water and how long you let it float matter too.
With just technique Ive been able to avoid the issue until i could attempt a fix
speedysprocket
Alex
- Location
- Chesapeake, VA
A ski with no added would float the tiniest bit higher in the water than one with foam due to the added weight of the foam. Foam doesn't affect anything till your boat sinks. Once full of water, your no foam boat will be much, much lower under the water than a foam filled one...
Sound good on the surface but I disagree
Most foam used in this application has a positive buoyancy and it's density is less than water, floating itself and adding some floatation to whatever it's attached too....
The orange bowling ball weighs 8 pounds and has less density than the water so it floats
It's not about weight, it's about density's
Good point, I had to lower my exhaust tube so my foot holds would clear. My Vengeance had the holds way in the back, i could stand it. I ended up getting some Thrust holds. I pushed the foot holds more forward and dropped the exhaust tube to clear.
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- Location
- Wasaga Beach
I agree with Speedy. In order for something to float, it must weigh less than the water it displaces. Assuming there is no water inside a hull, the foam would add a tiny bit of weight and cause the hull to sit a tiny bit lower in the water. Now assuming the hull is full of water, the foam displaces water making the ski more buoyant. Hope this helps...
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- Location
- the jetski grave yard
a lot of AM hulls just run a straight pipe from the exit to the bulkhead and some of them at the bottom to clear footholds. this creates a backflow problem. some hulls use a nice S bend and get the tube high on the bulkhead like most stock hulls . every bend after the stinger is a potential restriction that can hamper performance. on my rokR i made a P trap out of 1 3/4" tube since that was the stinger exit size. it was so restrictive, it had zero power. i changed it to 2.5" and what power it had,came back.
Speedy's post made me wonder, So I studied flotation and bouncy for a 45 minutes this morning.
I learned about density's and specific gravity and that an objects density in comparison to the liquids density its in is what produce flotation, not the objects weight. Some of its in #236
If I get in the lake and float upright and mark the water level on my body it prolly be around say the middle of my head. Now if I put on a life vest and took another measurement I would find I've risen out of the water dispite the weight of the foam in the life vest, positive bouncy
Am I missing something here?
I learned about density's and specific gravity and that an objects density in comparison to the liquids density its in is what produce flotation, not the objects weight. Some of its in #236
If I get in the lake and float upright and mark the water level on my body it prolly be around say the middle of my head. Now if I put on a life vest and took another measurement I would find I've risen out of the water dispite the weight of the foam in the life vest, positive bouncy
Am I missing something here?