Nitrous on a superjet

I got a reply from the guy at Boodockers:
Boondockers = fail. Their "technology" is not compatible with our fuel systems.

What kind of jetting are we wanting with these kits?

Right now the dual carb system we are working on will come with 18hp and 34hp jet kits. The single carbs could go as low 9hp, but I think a 15 and 30hp jetting would be what most of us would want.

Aaron
 

wsuwrhr

Purveyor of the Biggest Brapp
If I did it I would want to gain at least 30... maybe more if possible... 15 would be a waste of time IMO...


Relatively speaking, 15 HP is a HUGE gain in an engine the size of a jetski motor.

Be careful getting caught up in advertised HP gains of auto engines and comparing it to a delicate engine design like a jet ski motor. At 30HP I would estimate it to be a 200HP shot(or more) in a V-8 car engine.

In a car, that is a pretty serious system and your shiz damn well better be ready for it when you hit the button.

As it has been posted already, the impeller will be a problem of being too aggressive off the bottle compared to with.

Everyone messing with nitrous better have a billet couplers on both sides of the shaft as well as a good doughnut and a welded crank.

Nitrous is the best way to test for the weakest parts in a drivetrain.

Brian
 
Last edited:

Big Kahuna

Administrator
Location
Tuscaloosa, AL
over thinking the whole thing.
A friend has it on his 550 Kawi (or did, he quit riding years ago).

Drill and tap manifold and install the foggers into the intake track before the reeds.
Drill and tap gas tank for a male fitting, his just screwed into the tank. This line is for the fuel pump. You will have to have a fuel pump.
He had a reed switch mounted so that when you hit WOT it activated the switch, turned the pump on, injected the Nitrous and additional gas mixture needed to go with the Nitrous.

The kit worked, he did pitch up some. Sounded wicked when it came on, made the ski sound like a jet going by. Was it worth it to him, who knows, it was work getting the jetting correct.

Brian at Dunnavant performance use to run on on his ProMod 650 back in the early 90's. You could call him and talk to him about the setup.

Tricky also has a setup on an XP800. Though, I dont know the last time he used it, I have known him since 2002.
 
Last edited:

Ericfox

Do it twice?That's DooDoo
yeah... never really thought of the strain it might put on stuff... billet couplers and new doughnut =cheap and easy... are the stoker cranks from crankworks welded?

I figured a 30 shot of nitrous wont equal 30hp on a jetski... are you saying a 30 shot would feel like a 200 shot on a car?
 

wsuwrhr

Purveyor of the Biggest Brapp
Not a builder per se, just the machinist for the builder.

Personally, not on a jetski, or any two-stroke for that matter, to be honest, I think the mentioned prop issues will be a problem.

Dan or Kyle may have, but I have never heard them talk about any testing.

I have used it extensively on VW's and V-8 stuff and I have built bottle brackets for years.

I have learned the hard way, nitrous is one of the best methods I have found to search out weak links in the drivetrain, but fun to mess with.

Brian

Hey wsuwrhr have you played with Nitrous on a jet ski before?
Just wondering if you have, as I see you are a builder.
 
Last edited:
Progress: I ordered jets and a new WOT switch for my nitrous kit. We managed to get it "installed." I put it in quotes because it looks like total crap right now, but this is all being shoved into a $500 6M6 squarenose for now.

We were all excited about lake testing, but then found out my starter wire is corroded. I can't get to it with the (stock) exhaust on the ski. Hopefully I'll have time to fix that today, but we have a customer car we need to get done before tomorrow so we'll see.

We have the Wide Open Throttle (WOT) switch mounting figured out for stock Mikuni's with the stock throttle cam. Cabs with the aftermarket throttle wheel will take a little more work.

We also have tested the fuel enrichment and have 5 psi of fuel pressure available for the nitrous mixture. We'll see how that goes in actual testing though.

We started with a 6M6 because I have a bunch of just 650 parts that I can use up if necessary. The principles are the same on 650-1000cc engines.

We have a 20oz bottle bungee corded to the fire extinguisher for now. the 20oz bottle should be good for about 40 seconds of nitrous at 25hp. Considering we are using this to jump wakes/waves that is probably 10-20 good hits. The 40oz bottle will deliver twice the fun.

Bottle mounting options: the 20oz bottle will fit under the hood easily on a 6M6/61X however I am not planning on making custom bottle brackets for that.

The 40oz bottle will lay sideways in the tray just like a SN had it's fire extinguisher. the extinguisher will have to be moved under the hood.

Bottle filling - a trip to the nitrous store everytime you want to ride kind of sucks. We managed to pull of a successful syphon transfer yesterday and fill our 20oz bottle from a larger 10lb tank that I had left over from car stuff. the 20oz and 40oz bottles could be removed and filled pretty easily at the lake or on the beach.

Kit prices are projected at:
6M6/61X (or single carb anything) kit $499
62T/66E kit $599

The kits will include 2.5lb bottle (20oz bottle will save almost $50 if you want to stay small), 2-3 sets of jets (most likely 13 hp, 25 hp, and 37 hp), bottle brackets, solenoids, wiring, WOT switch, arming switch, nozzle, steel braided teflon line, solenoid bracket(s), fuel line, etc.

The 62T (basically any twin carb engine) is higher because of the additional nozzle, jets and lines.

I'll check on prices for a larger bottles to be used for convenient transfer filling.

Aaron
 

Ericfox

Do it twice?That's DooDoo
I will definately buy one upon successful setup on a dual carb setup with the 37hp jets... my motor is way too expensive for r&d... video trial would be cool
 

Ericfox

Do it twice?That's DooDoo
can you mount bottles sideways? - like you mention to mount it in the tray... I thought I read somewhere they had to be pointed down at some certain angle... but I'm a nitrous newb...
 
Relatively speaking, 15 HP is a HUGE gain in an engine the size of a jetski motor.

Be careful getting caught up in advertised HP gains of auto engines and comparing it to a delicate engine design like a jet ski motor. At 30HP I would estimate it to be a 200HP shot(or more) in a V-8 car engine.

In a car, that is a pretty serious system and your shiz damn well better be ready for it when you hit the button.

As it has been posted already, the impeller will be a problem of being too aggressive off the bottle compared to with.

Everyone messing with nitrous better have a billet couplers on both sides of the shaft as well as a good doughnut and a welded crank.

Nitrous is the best way to test for the weakest parts in a drivetrain.

Brian



seems that in this situation..STOCK couplers would be a way better option....like you said, the nitrous will find the weak link....

since the billet couplers wont break, they will transfer the stress to the shafts and crank...

personally, I'd rather disintrgrate couplers vs. having to fix a high dollar crank..
 
can you mount bottles sideways? - like you mention to mount it in the tray... I thought I read somewhere they had to be pointed down at some certain angle... but I'm a nitrous newb...

The bottle can be mounted sideways, but it probably needs a little bit of tilt. We built a flexible syphon tube. Basically it's like a straw that always falls to the bottom of the tank to suck the last bit of liquid out....um, I hope it works.

Aaron
 
Top Bottom