jetskiking
Im done sanding!!!
- Location
- Dallas Georgia
If its a stock CDI then the manual has resistance values for different wire combinatoins in a chart. If its a MSD replace it with a known good one and see if the problem goes away
No more Brap??? Low-mid-high all gone
- Thread starter DAG
- Start date
I don't see how an MSD enhancer can not fire one cylinder consistently, but do the other. They are both fired at the same time. The coil fires both. They are not seperated.
Am I wrong? ( I May be!)
Grif: Your fuel pickup tube for one carb may be at a different depth in the tank than the other (if it has a seperate tube for each carb). If so, you could get water in one, and not the other. SO.....:fingersx: back at ya.
Granted, a properly setup dual carb setup will have both tubes the same length.
Just saying, it's possible. ALso, one carb may be locked with water.
Just drain that tank. IT's easy.
Am I wrong? ( I May be!)
Grif: Your fuel pickup tube for one carb may be at a different depth in the tank than the other (if it has a seperate tube for each carb). If so, you could get water in one, and not the other. SO.....:fingersx: back at ya.
Granted, a properly setup dual carb setup will have both tubes the same length.
Just saying, it's possible. ALso, one carb may be locked with water.
Just drain that tank. IT's easy.
a bad msd enhancer will not make one plug fire and the other one not fire. its one coil that fires at the same time.
the actuall ohm reading is not important at this time. what youre looking for is continuity between the spark plug boots.
if there is water in your tank, you could be shooting water down your carbs with your primer.
the actuall ohm reading is not important at this time. what youre looking for is continuity between the spark plug boots.
if there is water in your tank, you could be shooting water down your carbs with your primer.
ArtMaybee
I'm Baaaack!
- Location
- Mobile, AL
When my CDI went bad I didn't decide to change it until we'd tried EVERYTHING else short of tearing the motor down.
DAG
Yes, my balls tickled from that landing
- Location
- Charlotte, NC
I'm not seeing "water" in the plugs.. i'm saying the pluges are wet and dirty from something, even when using new plugs and only a few cranks of the engine the plugs wete wet and black... I thought it was way to much oil/gas getting into that frount cylender?? maby its water.. it sucks i broke my nose the other week and still all stuffed up so i cant smell them...
and yes b4 you said that, i was thinking the carb may be locked with water also. 1st to things i'm going to check... just how do i check? is that back refuring to teh smooth side of the carb??? then what?:cheer: :cheer:
Oh heres what i'm going to do next:
Check those damn fule pickup lines and check for same lenght...!!!!!!
Replace the gass (i have 4gals of 93oct and benoil mixing it all, its about $15-$20 left in that take.... anyway can i save some of it?)
I'm going to go buy some cheap plugs... WHICH ONES? Br8es (Also which are the best pluges to run?) since ArtMaybee pointed that out?
Going to check coil resistance, and if theres a break
Going to check for a water locked carb, once i figure out how to do so
I'm strongly leaning to those fule pick ups though... praying it is :hail:
Thanks for all the support, and the 60+ replys all preaty much within one day... we are almost their..!!!.............
-grif
I been trying nearly everything that has be listed, that most have agreed on. havent pulled the motor if thats what your saying???????????????jetskiking said:
I AM running different pickups for each cylender... THIS MAY BE IT!!!! i cant beleave this dident cross my mind to be the 1st think i looked at!!! :bad3: :banghead:Matt_E said:
and yes b4 you said that, i was thinking the carb may be locked with water also. 1st to things i'm going to check... just how do i check? is that back refuring to teh smooth side of the carb??? then what?:cheer: :cheer:
Oh heres what i'm going to do next:
Check those damn fule pickup lines and check for same lenght...!!!!!!
Replace the gass (i have 4gals of 93oct and benoil mixing it all, its about $15-$20 left in that take.... anyway can i save some of it?)
I'm going to go buy some cheap plugs... WHICH ONES? Br8es (Also which are the best pluges to run?) since ArtMaybee pointed that out?
ArtMaybee said:
Going to check coil resistance, and if theres a break
Going to check for a water locked carb, once i figure out how to do so
I'm strongly leaning to those fule pick ups though... praying it is :hail:
Thanks for all the support, and the 60+ replys all preaty much within one day... we are almost their..!!!.............
-grif
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Get NKG BR8ES. Those are the plugs to run. They're about 2-3 dollars a pop.
As for the carb....just take them off, and take off the covers, one at a time. LOok at the Mikuni manual someone linked earlier to give you an idea how things work.
As for the carb....just take them off, and take off the covers, one at a time. LOok at the Mikuni manual someone linked earlier to give you an idea how things work.
DAG
Yes, my balls tickled from that landing
- Location
- Charlotte, NC
Just got off work, so time to go work.. i understand somewhat how the carb works, and printed off a spec. sheet. but still dont know what i'm looking for... i could pull teh thing apart and put back togethere and if i dont know what i'm looking for how can i fix it?
and if my carbs are mounted backwards, which i beleave they are, how smaart is it to take those 4 screws off and checking the diafram? or will thousands of tiny parts come off shooting every which way and being lost in my hull.. and how hard will it be to put back together with the carb's still attached?
Just curious if someone has dont this, or are they making me be the genny pig????
thanks
-grif
and if my carbs are mounted backwards, which i beleave they are, how smaart is it to take those 4 screws off and checking the diafram? or will thousands of tiny parts come off shooting every which way and being lost in my hull.. and how hard will it be to put back together with the carb's still attached?
Just curious if someone has dont this, or are they making me be the genny pig????
thanks
-grif
Personally, I would remove the carbs to do that. It takes about six minutes to pull them off. It makes things much easier.
As for taking the carb apart...the main goal here is to make sure there's no water in it. Just by disassembling/assembling it, you will have achieved that. However, you will also want to check and clean the internal fuel filters inside the carbs.
You'll find those under the square covers. It's a black pastic ring sticking out. Just pulll that out, and you'll find it's a small mesh screen fuel filter. Clean those. (1 per carb)
As for taking the carb apart...the main goal here is to make sure there's no water in it. Just by disassembling/assembling it, you will have achieved that. However, you will also want to check and clean the internal fuel filters inside the carbs.
You'll find those under the square covers. It's a black pastic ring sticking out. Just pulll that out, and you'll find it's a small mesh screen fuel filter. Clean those. (1 per carb)
SJ/XPBri
Just SJBri = no more XP
- Location
- Northern, NJ
Every person posting on this thread has done this, many many, times. when you pull the cover the parts will not go everywhere. The fuel metering side (the square cover) will only have a spring and diaphram pop out. If the carb is fairly old and has not been taken apart, pick up a rebuild kit for it.
Also your carb is not mounted backwards, the throttle drum is supposed to be facing towards the rear of the ski.
Bri
Also your carb is not mounted backwards, the throttle drum is supposed to be facing towards the rear of the ski.
Bri
SJ/XPBri
Just SJBri = no more XP
- Location
- Northern, NJ
Just read the first post- he has dual 44'sMatt_E said:
Bri
SJ/XPBri
Just SJBri = no more XP
- Location
- Northern, NJ
grifnasty said:
I don't know if that makes a difference?
Bri
SJ/XPBri said:
am i the only one who has never had a spring pop out of a super bn simply by removing the fuel metering side???
2-stroketerrorist
Rev it till it blows!!!
- Location
- far,far away...........
there is really quite a high chance that you have water in your fuel tank/carbs, you see what some of the other guys have over looked is your ski more than likely still has the fuel tank breater running through the handlepole bracket in to fresh air, so that as the carbs draw fuel from the tank this breather witch is one of 2 located on the tank will draw air or in the case of you doing a fountain will draw, yep youve guessed it, WATER, and unless you have the water trap in this breater line open for freestyle use it will fill up the small resovoir with water and then when its full the carbs will suck water straight into your tank:biggthumpup: i reckon this will more than likely be your problem, now let the fuel in the tank settle, remove the fuel pickup in the tank and with a TORCH that is switched on away from the ski, NOT A LIGHTER look into the fuel tank and im sure you will see water/dark mass in the bottom of the tank, hope this helps
jetskiking
Im done sanding!!!
- Location
- Dallas Georgia
I think its toast!!! pull the motor and send it to me, I will discard of it for you. I promise its something simple like water in the gas or electrical. I wasnt saying that you were not listening just stating that everybody had you going in the right direction.The only person saying to pull your motor i think was Jesse but hes just fixated on bent rods right now anyway:biggrin: