Freestyle Nozzle length and why?

wydopen

onthepipe
The limiting factor is often the throw of the steering cable (3.5 inches)
My nozzle can travel a lot further than what the cable can throw.

what cable are you running?? my cable dosnt bottom out when the bars are at full lock and the nozzle is ground..it only has about 1/32" left but it gets allot of throw..
 

wydopen

onthepipe
so it will turn farther one direction...that threaded part cant go back inside the cable all the way to the clip thing like a stocker can my cable goes all the way to the nut behind the little clip thing
 
Last edited:

wydopen

onthepipe
that setup would work good if you only turn left haha

whats the point of running the HD cable anyways?? if your steering is setup right you shouldnt be bending cables...the only reason your cable would bend is if your cable runs out of throw before you hit the steering locks..
 
Last edited:

Matt_E

steals hub caps from cars
Site Supporter
Location
at peace
so it will turn farther one direction...that threaded part cant go back inside the cable all the way to the clip thing like a stocker can

A stock cable (and Skat) will not let the threaded portion retreat into the sleeve completely. Very little of it. What's the difference in threading the stock piece on and threading the Seadoo piece on?
I've spent hours and hours on this on a couple OEM cables and the Skat cable. The SD adapter doesn't hurt throw. In fact, I've measured throw without any adapter and with adapter. No difference. Of course, this assumes that you don't thread that thing on until it bottoms out.
 

wydopen

onthepipe
A stock cable (and Skat) will not let the threaded portion retreat into the sleeve completely. Very little of it. What's the difference in threading the stock piece on and threading the Seadoo piece on?
I've spent hours and hours on this on a couple OEM cables and the Skat cable. The SD adapter doesn't hurt throw. In fact, I've measured throw without any adapter and with adapter. No difference. Of course, this assumes that you don't thread that thing on until it bottoms out.

the threaded part does retreat into the sleeve on a stocker...that piece on the skat threads over the end on the stocker the actual cable is threaded so its the same dia which allows it to go back inside he sleeve .like i said the nut behind the clip touches the sleeve at full lock on mine...i run mine with the clip only threaded on a couple threads to make it as long as possible..ill take a pic tonight..
 
Last edited:

Matt_E

steals hub caps from cars
Site Supporter
Location
at peace
Not sure what's up with that. I do know that the SD piece doesn't affect throw unless you thread it way the f on there.
You need to have the nozzle centered at roughly 1.75 inches cable out.
 

GIL

Power In The Hands Of Few
Location
Cullman AL
I have run short and long nozzles with my Thrust straight pull and could not tell a diff on flatwater. (I can't roll with either nozzle) LOL
 

wydopen

onthepipe
Not sure what's up with that. I do know that the SD piece doesn't affect throw unless you thread it way the f on there.
You need to have the nozzle centered at roughly 1.75 inches cable out.

you dont see how threading an 1.5" +/- piece thats too big to go back inside the sleeve to the end of your cable would make it turn further to the left than right?

put a stocker on there with your nozzle clearanced properly and the cable as close as you can get it to the nozzle and try it..you can thank me later..
 
Last edited:

Matt_E

steals hub caps from cars
Site Supporter
Location
at peace
you dont see how threading an 1.5" +/- piece to the end of your cable would make it turn further to the left than right?

No, I don't. Because it doesn't change the amount of cable throw. (this is important)
That piece is normally used for trim systems which place the steering knuckle further back. So you need a little bit of an extension to properly center the nozzle with a centered cable.
If you used it on a stock setup without trim, the cable end would be too long and you would screw up your steering.
 
Last edited:

wydopen

onthepipe
Interesting...I always thought longer nozzle equals tighter steering. Now I need to do some more testing.

BTW...what are you doing here in the land of circus boats?


if you think about it reducing the lenght of your nozzle will decrease the steering radius which should allow for a smaller turning diameter...im running a stock lenght one now..i have a couple extra ill cut one down again and try it again..the protec one i had that was shortened got all wallowed out where it mounts to the reduction nozzle and i threw it out..

my old square which was built by some old school freestyle guy had it setup like that...thing turned on a dime..
 
Last edited:

wydopen

onthepipe
No, I don't. Because it doesn't change the amount of cable throw. (this is important)
That piece is normally used for trim systems which place the steering knuckle further back. So you need a little bit of an extension to properly center the nozzle with a centered cable.
If you used it on a stock setup without trim, the cable end would be too long and you would screw up your steering.


adding any length to the end will make it turn more when its extended but unless it can go back inside the sleeve the same distance as it extends it wont allow for the same throw in both directions..does your steering stops on the turnplate hit before that extender hits the sleeve when making a right turn?? if you dont have your steering setup for maximum throw it dosnt even matter cause u arnt using the entire amount of cable throw anyways

where is your cable mounted on the tab on the nozzle?? all the way as close as it can get to the nozzle??
 
Last edited:

wydopen

onthepipe
Seems peeps are mixing nozzle length and nozzle steering arm length in this thread?

originally i was talking about the actual length of the nozzle...then i noticed in the pic that he could get way more throw out of his setup by moving the mounting location of the ball on the steering arm

yes to get maximum throw the steering arm length should be as short as possible on the nozzle and as long as possible on the turnplate.. you have to grind your nozzle accordingly or it will hit the reduction nozzle before you hit the steering stops on the turnplate
 

NVJAY775

My home away from home.
Mine turns the same both directions. I started by centering everything first, then adjusting the ball cups. Bars, cable and nozzle centered first. I've seen guys with their cable not centered and either not having equal throw and, or breaking the cable.

wydopen, I'm heading to the hardware store for a tap. Good eye on the ball position on my nozzle dude! Thanks.. I am going to have to notch my pump a tad for the cable to clear.

Talked to Kevin at West Coast Porting, and he's going to shorten the nozzle for me.
 
Top Bottom