Paint how to thread

[WFO Speedracer]

No thanks I am tape it and spray it guy. That may work with certain paint though, looks like he is using Epifanes polyurethane , other than roll on primer I have never rolled on paint on a ski. That looks almost like the Rostellum paint method.

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[Myself]

You would need to use a high quality brush for that as well.

 

[CD155MX]

Roll and tip! This guy makes it look way to easy.

Next time I need to do a bottom deck I'm trying this method!

 

[WFO Speedracer]

Okay I am reviving this thread but with a different ski , we will get back to the 3D later.

This one Is a Yamaha VX1100 , I bought one years ago with severe body damage then last year this fell into my lap or into my yard anyway , it was free and came on a crappy Harbor freight trailer that I refloored, welded and painted then sold.

It's a former Surf rescue boat which is surprisingly in pretty decent shape hull wise , nothing major so far except for a funky pad they added to the bottom of the ski and since it was a rescue boat there is some damage where the rescue pad was mounted to the back of the ski, engine was toasted, salt water trash, red paint is sun damaged and completely dead so full repaint on this one.

I am most likely going White and blue or white and purple on this one with new graphics , as is the norm here now this becomes my personal ski until someone wants it more than I do which only takes money in my hand and you can own it.

I have good freshwater running gear out of the other ski to install into this one.

The holes have already been filled with epoxy cabosil and I applied fairing compound to the gunnels where the pad was glued down this morning , I am taking the ski down to the primer, I guess Yamaha learned something along the way because these skis actually have primer under the paint.

All the red paint comes off with 80 grit and a DA , then high build urethane primer and then paint , the pad on the bottom stays and it will get filled , reshaped and blended in , I am not sure if it was done as a preventative measure for beaching the ski or they rubbed through the bottom and then added the pad, I will have to make a piece to bolt to the pump in the rear before I can flip the ski over, no biggie I know a guy .

As I have discussed before here , I like to 80 grit the hull and give the primer something to stick to , then I sand the primer to 320-400 and then paint it with Polyurethane single stage , primer is stuck to the hull, paint is stuck to the primer and it creates a really tough and durable paint job that will last for years.

 

[Myself]

This will be good.........that thing is ROACHED!!!

 

[WFO Speedracer]

This will be good.........that thing is ROACHED!!!

The paint is roached but surprisingly there is almost no body damage , the seat is going in the trash , the upper body panels are in excellent shape .

So far the paint is coming right off which means removing it all is the right thing to do, possibly some of the paint under the upper body panels might be salvageable enough to just scuff and prime over, we will see what we will see.

It is not nearly as roached as the bottom of that last ski was.

 

[Myself]

I know the four strokes have been around a WHILE now but I'm still sinking 2-4k into 2 strokes for customers. I just finished up an XLT800. New crank, 2 new WSM cylinders, pistons, powervalves, and carb overhauls........right at 4k!

 

[WFO Speedracer]

I know the four strokes have been around a WHILE now but I'm still sinking 2-4k into 2 strokes for customers. I just finished up an XLT800. New crank, 2 new WSM cylinders, pistons, powervalves, and carb overhauls........right at 4k!

Nobody around here is dropping that kind of coin on older two strokes.

I thought this build needed a little theme music so here it go !

 

[Myself]

I love that song!

 

[WFO Speedracer]

Ski is all tripped down, nothing sticking up except for some rivet heads, sorry but I am painting over the rivet heads.

I have to go get a new scraper blade for the multitool before I tackle the footwell pads , those things are sunbaked on there really well.

I am most likely doing something like the second pic but with a black or blue bottom color , I like white boats and I like the two tone paint, the last one I redid looked pretty much just like that but it was all white.

I used these graphics on the last one and probably will on this one, they are cheap, they fit well and look really nice installed .

https://www.ebay.com/itm/305355830362

 

[WFO Speedracer]

It's been a minute but on stuff like this I tend to take my time , sanding all the little nooks and crannies on a hull like this is a b!tch [plain and simple , just take a small spot at a time and sooner or later it will all be done.

All of the red menace has been removed , it's down to the primer and in some spots down to the bare hull , almost no body damage on this one so other than wiping a few spots wioth filler it will be ready for high build primer.

Before I do all that I am relocating it to the other shop. I have to fab up a bracket for the back so I can spin it in the flip stand and the welder and big compressor are there.

 

[Myself]

........ , sanding all the little nooks and crannies on a hull like this is a b!tch [plain and simple ,

EXACTLY......but it's the only way to get it done right.
It's getting there.

 

[WFO Speedracer]

EXACTLY......but it's the only way to get it done right.
It's getting there.

This is exactly why I don't do customer paint and bodywork anymore , most customers think you are trying to rip them off, they have no idea what is actually involved in something like this , since it is mine it doesn't matter how long it takes , I will make enough money in the end to cover it.

 

[Myself]

I'm keeping track of ALL labor hours on the 750 'all or nothing' build. When it's all done I'll post actual hours involved for a full build. This guy is a good customer of mine and I'm not charging him by the hour.

 

[WFO Speedracer]

I'm keeping track of ALL labor hours on the 750 'all or nothing' build. When it's all done I'll post actual hours involved for a full build. This guy is a good customer of mine and I'm not charging him by the hour.

I hear you, i am not charging by the hour on that 650SX I am redoing either

 

[WFO Speedracer]

Alright we are going to skip around a bit because that's just what I do, a rolling stone gathers no moss. It hit 83 here today so that means paint and body time !

Today I am repairing and repainting a Seadoo GTI hood for the sales ski, it has lots of dock rash but no really major damage , it also has one small crack in the SMC so I will address that first with some SMC filler .

I have already sanded it down feathering any nicks and scratches as best I could with the DA sander and 80 grit paper, I followed that up with a 1wet sand with 150 grit wet dry paper to get to the tough spots then you hose it off and let it dry, any shiny spots will need more sanding with the 150 grit .

I hit the cracked area with the belt sander because that was the quickest way to go , remember hoods are not structural and this repair is cosmetic so no grinding and glassing going on here, the crack does not go all the way through.

I am using USC SMC -Fiberglass filler for this repair , you have about fifteen minutes of working time depending on how much hardener you add to it.

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[WFO Speedracer]

I sanded it down with 80 grit on the DA and pulled it again , now you may think that you can pull it once and be done but usually it doesn't work that way.

I will lightly hit it with the DA to knock down the high spots this go around and the rest will be done by hand.

Most likely I will follow up with epoxy and microbaloons filler , it feathers out way better than the SMC filler does, at any rate once I hit it with the epoxy I am done for the day and its' Corona time !

 

[WFO Speedracer]

Sanded off and epoxy-microballoons has been applied , you will notice the area where the epoxy filler has been applied has gotten much larger and the microballoons filler goes on much smoother .

Here is where I am going to throw a pro tip at you , in between sanding and the application of new filler always take an air blower and blow off the area thoroughly , the sanding dust settles into the tiny pinholes because the filler has porosity and when you mix it you mix in air with it , you don't want to apply filler over dust and have issues later .

Corona mode engaged, have a good one !

 

[WFO Speedracer]

With a quick sand with 80 grit this repair is now complete and ready for high build primer.

 

[WFO Speedracer]

I primed it with Rustoleum pro grade bonding primer in the turbo can, when they said turbo they sere not joking.

I will let that sit in the sun for at least a few hours before wetsanding it it with 320-400 grit and then hit it with Rustoleum black sandable primer.

The bonding primer probably isn't needed here but I am painting over SMC so it's just an extra measure of protection, why spray can primer you may ask , because its good , fast and cheap.

I do have Akzo Nobel high build I could spray with a gun , but then you have to mix it , drain the compressor put a new filter on , spray it then clean the gun , in all honesty it's not needed on this particular project.