Blaster Rick's Detailed 1100 Blaster Conversion

ItsRixter

ItsRixter

SoCal Wav Jumping shiznit
Location
Sunny Diego
MacSuper said:
This conversion thread is one of the best threads i have read on the X or PWC Today and super, super helpful man. If you don't mind I am in the process of doing mine now and i have a couple questions. Did you install a thru hull fitting to add a second cooling line from the Solas stator section and if you did where did you cut and mount it in the pump section? Also I was thinking about using the same Solas 144 stator section, what made you decide to use that and what did you notice from it as far as performance goes? Also did you remove all the foam in the back. I sure appreciate the help I think i have read your thread twice now awesome thanks, Jason.
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Thanks for the compliments. Glad to hear it's helping you out.

Well, the second cooling line can be done a few ways. The easiest is just to use the stock bilge line (yellow arrow) and then install an electric bilge pump. Otherwise, you drill a new line just above it for dual cooling (blue arrow). The other hull pass through marked with red arrow is for the tilt nozzle cable.

Now regarding the pump selection, I was kind of a victim of up selling. LOL. I was told all this power can blow out the stock stator veins. Looking back, I don't think this is a real concern. However, this pump hooks up nice in chop, has great bottom end and doesn't cut off the top end (at least with my prop) at all. Regardless, if you do the pump upgrade, get a big hub prop. It will work on both stock and solas pumps (the solas requires a big hub prop). Now here is the ugly side of the solas pump I didn't discover until afterwards. My front bearing blew out like I found on many threads afterwards. I took the pump apart, and brought it to a machine shop that could work on it (some cannot bore it out due to the wall at the end). It's not only in need of a slight bore due to the tight tolerance, but the guy told me it was slightly oval shaped on the inside section where the bearings sit. Therefore, be sure you have the inside of the solas pump measured and trued if necessary. It was about $50 to bore / true the solas pump. So its really a budget thing. I was "all in" on my from the ground up build, so I spent the extra $$ upfront on the pump. The 1100 on a stock pump with a big hub prop will be great and you can upgrade to solas later. I was also told to use OEM bearings. Be sure to install them correctly. One side of the bearings have etched numbers / lettering. I believe that side faces towards the rear of the ski.

Yes, I removed the rear foam. You have to, to install the rear exhaust. I posted pics in thread. I glassed in the old exhaust outlet so it's all stealth inside the pump area. Foam- PITA part of the project.

Good luck with your build!

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S

smitch

Location
CT
Awesome write up. currently in the process of doing the same build-ada head, dry out the stock exhaust mod, 3 degree timing advance. Going to run the Keihin carbs as that is what came with the donor ski (96 zxi 1100). Was wondering if you removed the accelerator pump and if so what jetting did you use and what the High and lows were set at. Also which prop would you recommend-using the stock pump. I am thinking Skat 16/23 big hub. thanks
 
scottie mac

scottie mac

X-
Don't remove the ACC pumps. The carbs are designed to run with them. Go up 2 jets on the bottom and depending on your elevation, maybe 1 on top. The stock keihins work well and you don't need a primer. But, to be honest, you are leaving some good power on the table by not going to at least 44s. Best band for the buck is a set of GP1200 carbs (can be found on eBay for 250) and one of the adaptor plates to put them on a stock manifold. You do have to port the manifold to match, but that set up is fairly cheap and has big gains over the keihins in terms of bottom and mid.

SM
 
Johnny Africa

Johnny Africa

Site Supporter
Location
Seminole 33772
scottie mac said:
If you want to lug the motor around, then the 16/23 is fine, if you want it to pull all the way up to the top, go 15/19. BIG difference in one running 7700 and up over one pulling lower 7ks.

SM
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My 16/23 on my 1200 pulls great...now you got me thinking....I need to put a tach on the ski ....damn now I gotta try a 15/19.....
 
scottie mac

scottie mac

X-
Johnny Africa said:
My 16/23 on my 1200 pulls great...now you got me thinking....I need to put a tach on the ski ....damn now I gotta try a 15/19.....
Click to expand...

If you are talking yamaha 1200, then don't go much lower than what you have. The yamaha triple is an entirely different animal. It requires lower rpms numbers because of the lower rev limiter set from the factory. Plus, the pipe isn't designed to make power in the upper rpms, at least not in stock form. The yamaha is a bigger bore motor, so it can pul bigger props down low and still get similar numbers to the kawi pulling much higher numbers.

As for the debate on the kawi side, I can tell you for certain, propping is EVERYTHING on an 1100. Speed up top isn't that much difference, but low end and mid range hit is night and day. My original sport open spec blaster 1100 was a low 62 mph ski on pump gas and would holeshot my carbon blaster with my old 8mm powervalve Lamey engines. I won a lot of races with those old 8mms, but the CC advantage and torque advantage from the triple more than makes up for the stroker on a twin.

Additionally, the kawi has a detonation zone from 7400-7600 that can become an issue if you can really load a blaster pump. It's actually safer to run a kawi above 7700 than it is from 7400-7600.

SM
 
ItsRixter

ItsRixter

SoCal Wav Jumping shiznit
Location
Sunny Diego
I'm using a hooker 14.5-17.5 big hub. 7450 rpm. 58mph. Stock carbs. My ski hits like a MF
I have not installed the R&D timing advance yet since that will push me to 93 octane.
 
Superjetjim

Superjetjim

X-
scottie mac said:
If you are talking yamaha 1200, then don't go much lower than what you have. The yamaha triple is an entirely different animal. It requires lower rpms numbers because of the lower rev limiter set from the factory. Plus, the pipe isn't designed to make power in the upper rpms, at least not in stock form. The yamaha is a bigger bore motor, so it can pul bigger props down low and still get similar numbers to the kawi pulling much higher numbers.

As for the debate on the kawi side, I can tell you for certain, propping is EVERYTHING on an 1100. Speed up top isn't that much difference, but low end and mid range hit is night and day. My original sport open spec blaster 1100 was a low 62 mph ski on pump gas and would holeshot my carbon blaster with my old 8mm powervalve Lamey engines. I won a lot of races with those old 8mms, but the CC advantage and torque advantage from the triple more than makes up for the stroker on a twin.

Additionally, the kawi has a detonation zone from 7400-7600 that can become an issue if you can really load a blaster pump. It's actually safer to run a kawi above 7700 than it is from 7400-7600.

SM
Click to expand...

+1 some great advice.
 
///M5

///M5

Location
Guam
ItsRixter said:
I'm using a hooker 14.5-17.5 big hub. 7450 rpm. 58mph. Stock carbs. My ski hits like a MF
I have not installed the R&D timing advance yet since that will push me to 93 octane.
Click to expand...
I was under the impression that we can run the R&D timing plate, and the temp sensor mod on 91. Is that wrong, because Im also putting on an ADA head with 32cc Domes?
 
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tshank123

tshank123

Yo hablo ingles
Location
Vegas
scottie mac said:
If you are talking yamaha 1200, then don't go much lower than what you have. The yamaha triple is an entirely different animal. It requires lower rpms numbers because of the lower rev limiter set from the factory. Plus, the pipe isn't designed to make power in the upper rpms, at least not in stock form. The yamaha is a bigger bore motor, so it can pul bigger props down low and still get similar numbers to the kawi pulling much higher numbers.

As for the debate on the kawi side, I can tell you for certain, propping is EVERYTHING on an 1100. Speed up top isn't that much difference, but low end and mid range hit is night and day. My original sport open spec blaster 1100 was a low 62 mph ski on pump gas and would holeshot my carbon blaster with my old 8mm powervalve Lamey engines. I won a lot of races with those old 8mms, but the CC advantage and torque advantage from the triple more than makes up for the stroker on a twin.

Additionally, the kawi has a detonation zone from 7400-7600 that can become an issue if you can really load a blaster pump. It's actually safer to run a kawi above 7700 than it is from 7400-7600.

SM
Click to expand...

Great advice. Its funny how often the question of "what pitch should I run" comes up. On the blaster conversions page on facebook, its like once a week. You get so many people that chime in with their recommendations without even considering whether its a kawi or yama. On top of that, they dont consider the mods on the ski, or what the guy is using it for.
 
ItsRixter

ItsRixter

SoCal Wav Jumping shiznit
Location
Sunny Diego
tshank123 said:
Great advice. Its funny how often the question of "what pitch should I run" comes up. On the blaster conversions page on facebook, its like once a week. You get so many people that chime in with their recommendations without even considering whether its a kawi or yama. On top of that, they dont consider the mods on the ski, or what the guy is using it for.
Click to expand...
Yup agree, and also not mentioning what brand of prop. A 15/ 19 Solas is not the same as 15/19 Skat. Well this is a Kawi 1100 build thread so answers should be specifically to that...not Yami 1100 or 1200 here
 
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