Blaster Rick's Detailed 1100 Blaster Conversion
- Thread starter ItsRixter
- Start date
ItsRixter
SoCal Wav Jumping shiznit
- Location
- Sunny Diego
I haven't been down to Fiesta Island since the Monday prior to Thanksgiving. With the rain draining topsoil, I wouldn't be surprised by the smell.
We should compare props. Ours skis sound pretty similar in setup, so it would be interesting to compare side by side. Let me know next time you are planning on hitting the bay with your B1100
Maybe I missed this but did you end up sending your Blaster mid shaft off to RadDudes to be re sized or did you use a GP760 mid shaft?
If the latter what year GP760 did you use or do they all work without any modification?
If the latter what year GP760 did you use or do they all work without any modification?
ItsRixter
SoCal Wav Jumping shiznit
- Location
- Sunny Diego
I used a GP760 mid shaft. They only made the GP760 in 97-99 and they were all the same.
Keep in mind you only need the shorter mid shaft if you are setting the motor back with a rad dudes plate. You can you use the stock mid shaft with an Extreme Throttle plate in the "stock" position vs set back position. My research found most people insist on locating the big motor as far back as possible. However, if you are on a budget you can save a few bucks here.
Thanks. Figure if I'm going to do this might as well do it right. GP760 it is.
BTW Thanks for the detail build. REALLY a makes it easy for anyone hesitant to do this mod to see exactly what's required to build a NICE conversion.
BTW Thanks for the detail build. REALLY a makes it easy for anyone hesitant to do this mod to see exactly what's required to build a NICE conversion.
Quinc
Buy a Superjet
- Location
- California
I read somewhere that the temp sensor bypass only advances it up to 3000rpms or so?
- Location
- Redding, CA
I'm currently in the process of another build like back in my gpr days and the stxr as well.
I have found that any build will always be slightly different when it comes to custom stuff. Hull years...redesign of aftermarket products....as in plates and so on.
I found some people have had no problems dropping in a kawi 1100 on a rad dudes plate using a gp 760 and some needed to ether modify the plate or the shaft. I have seen 3 different versions of the rad dudes plates. At least where the plate has different cut outs. Have no idea if they changed the angle length or anything else.
With my setup which I'm getting close to finish I had to modify the gp760 shaft as I could not get the bolts in for the engine mounts. I was about a 1/4 inch off. So I needed it milled down and added some threads to allow it to move back a little more.
It not hard to press the shaft out and have it spun and press it in again. Just remember to put it back to spec.
What's hard is finding a guy to spin metric threads I guess. I know a couple people around here who are killer at machine work and he did it No problem.
So sometimes each one needs it's own tweek.
All in all the blaster build with a kawi drop is not bad. I would assume the yam 1200 is almost a no brainer.
I have found that any build will always be slightly different when it comes to custom stuff. Hull years...redesign of aftermarket products....as in plates and so on.
I found some people have had no problems dropping in a kawi 1100 on a rad dudes plate using a gp 760 and some needed to ether modify the plate or the shaft. I have seen 3 different versions of the rad dudes plates. At least where the plate has different cut outs. Have no idea if they changed the angle length or anything else.
With my setup which I'm getting close to finish I had to modify the gp760 shaft as I could not get the bolts in for the engine mounts. I was about a 1/4 inch off. So I needed it milled down and added some threads to allow it to move back a little more.
It not hard to press the shaft out and have it spun and press it in again. Just remember to put it back to spec.
What's hard is finding a guy to spin metric threads I guess. I know a couple people around here who are killer at machine work and he did it No problem.
So sometimes each one needs it's own tweek.
All in all the blaster build with a kawi drop is not bad. I would assume the yam 1200 is almost a no brainer.
ItsRixter
SoCal Wav Jumping shiznit
- Location
- Sunny Diego
Remember the gp760 or shortened mid shaft needs the kawi motor side coupler (ADA or stock). Initially, I had an ADA sxr coupler (ones used for superjets and blasters to convert to kawi setup) on my ski and I couldn't figure out why the bolt holes weren't lining up on my rad dudes plate. So, I realized I had the wrong part. That coupler was longer and not as flush as the correct coupler needed. Luckily the folks at ADA swapped me out for the right coupler.
I agree each conversion is unique by the problems you will encounter like electrical problems, broken or frozen bolts etc. One guy's quick step maybe another person's "stuck on it for weeks" issue (like my UMI steering bearings). However, these parts all work! Just like installing a pump, it will work but each ski will have to be shimmed correctly. You shouldn't have to shave off parts for one build and not another.
Below is the right coupler installed on the mid shaft :
notice the threads go through the coupler
Notice below the wrong mid shaft coupler installed is pushing the motor forward by 3/4 inch at the motor mount. The coupler on the motor crank shaft is the part you need x2. These flush couplers (referred to as the engine side couplers) make the GP760 and short shafts work with the setback plates.
I agree each conversion is unique by the problems you will encounter like electrical problems, broken or frozen bolts etc. One guy's quick step maybe another person's "stuck on it for weeks" issue (like my UMI steering bearings). However, these parts all work! Just like installing a pump, it will work but each ski will have to be shimmed correctly. You shouldn't have to shave off parts for one build and not another.
Below is the right coupler installed on the mid shaft :
notice the threads go through the coupler
Notice below the wrong mid shaft coupler installed is pushing the motor forward by 3/4 inch at the motor mount. The coupler on the motor crank shaft is the part you need x2. These flush couplers (referred to as the engine side couplers) make the GP760 and short shafts work with the setback plates.
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ItsRixter
SoCal Wav Jumping shiznit
- Location
- Sunny Diego
Yup advances only up to 5000 rpms. So you get the advance on bottom end and mid range.
ItsRixter
SoCal Wav Jumping shiznit
- Location
- Sunny Diego
Thanks. I'm glad you find it useful. I was trying to figure this out and wished this post existed (lol). Funny how once you do it, it becomes straightforward.
ItsRixter
SoCal Wav Jumping shiznit
- Location
- Sunny Diego
A 1/4 inch? You should be able to adjust that with the plate bolts and the motor mount bolts loose on the install. You can get 1/8 inch play on each of those.
- Location
- Redding, CA
Yea I hear ya. Everything was loose and still needed to move back. Someone I know said his plate needed modification just to make his mounts as they would not go wide enough not sure if that was the problem,but I haven't heard back.
I also used a motor side coupler as well. Most of this stuff isn't that hard it's just attention to detail that takes longer.
BTW your coupler needs to sit farther away. Then the pic you posted. That looks like 2mm maybe..?
I think kawi normally runs about 3.5 to 5mm gap. Unlike yamaha they run closer if I remember 2 or 3mm.
Will it make that much difference idk.
This is mine for reference.
.
I have some other cool stuff as well I will probably do a quick pic thread in a couple months when finished since there is plenty of builds and such. No need to flood the market.
But thanks for all your info we where on pace for a while at the same time and I came to a stand still.
I also used a motor side coupler as well. Most of this stuff isn't that hard it's just attention to detail that takes longer.
BTW your coupler needs to sit farther away. Then the pic you posted. That looks like 2mm maybe..?
I think kawi normally runs about 3.5 to 5mm gap. Unlike yamaha they run closer if I remember 2 or 3mm.
Will it make that much difference idk.
This is mine for reference.
.I have some other cool stuff as well I will probably do a quick pic thread in a couple months when finished since there is plenty of builds and such. No need to flood the market.
But thanks for all your info we where on pace for a while at the same time and I came to a stand still.
- Location
- Redding, CA
Hmm one thing I did.
I didn't have my motor loose on the plate on install.
One thing I didn't like is that the plate unlike stock sits right against the cases. So I eneed up using some hard thin rubber pads in front and back then mounted the plate and moved the plate and squared it so the motor sits back on the plate as far as possible.
No this could have lost me some play that could have made some difference but I still think I would have needed a little more room. Maybe not a 1/4 inch but still enough to where my mid shaft needed some milling.
Now a easier way may be to just mill about 3mm off the motor side coupler and replace the thic washer for a thin one and that could help gain room.
Idk just another way. As long as the end result is the same that's what matters.....
Braaap!
I didn't have my motor loose on the plate on install.
One thing I didn't like is that the plate unlike stock sits right against the cases. So I eneed up using some hard thin rubber pads in front and back then mounted the plate and moved the plate and squared it so the motor sits back on the plate as far as possible.
No this could have lost me some play that could have made some difference but I still think I would have needed a little more room. Maybe not a 1/4 inch but still enough to where my mid shaft needed some milling.
Now a easier way may be to just mill about 3mm off the motor side coupler and replace the thic washer for a thin one and that could help gain room.
Idk just another way. As long as the end result is the same that's what matters.....
Braaap!
yamabro
GP Performance / Patterson Powersports
- Location
- Dickson, Tn.
I've read over this thread countless times. Thanks for posting up this build with the informative details and pictures. I'm in the process of the same build, so I'll have to post my build up also!!!
Quinc
Buy a Superjet
- Location
- California
Whole thread should be moved to the Tech FAQ
ItsRixter
SoCal Wav Jumping shiznit
- Location
- Sunny Diego
That's awesome to hear. A lot of people helped me get my project done, so this is basically a collective effort from many experts. It makes my day when I hear you guys are using it as a key piece for your builds.
- Location
- California
Definitely need to get all these socal triple blasters together! I just got mine back up and running last weekend and will probably be at elsinore again on sunday. Pretty sure I had a coil go bad and was having trouble figuring out which one...ended up grabbing my buddies complete ebox cheap and swapped the whole thing and shes back in action.
I am running both the temp sensor jumped and the R&D timing plate with no issues as scottiemac suggested but I am still running stock compression so I am sure that helps...looking to mill the head or get an ADA sooner than later though. Also is yours super loud? I like how it sounds but after riding for awhile it gets old and Im sure others dont appreciate it after a while either, would like to quiet it down a little bit without losing power (putting too much water back in the stinger).
I am running a solas 15-22 big hub that impros reccomended but we are going to try a 15-20 or 15-21 like scottiemac suggested on my buddies that will be built soon. Have not been able to check RPMs or MPH yet.
Ski overall runs pretty good and plugs look perfect BUT I do have a low end bog / hesitation I think is due to the accelerator pumps...are you still running yours?
I am running both the temp sensor jumped and the R&D timing plate with no issues as scottiemac suggested but I am still running stock compression so I am sure that helps...looking to mill the head or get an ADA sooner than later though. Also is yours super loud? I like how it sounds but after riding for awhile it gets old and Im sure others dont appreciate it after a while either, would like to quiet it down a little bit without losing power (putting too much water back in the stinger).
I am running a solas 15-22 big hub that impros reccomended but we are going to try a 15-20 or 15-21 like scottiemac suggested on my buddies that will be built soon. Have not been able to check RPMs or MPH yet.
Ski overall runs pretty good and plugs look perfect BUT I do have a low end bog / hesitation I think is due to the accelerator pumps...are you still running yours?
scottie mac
X-
If you want it to be quicker, more light switchy, go with the 15/19-15/20. If you want it to be more linear with the about the same speed up top, stick with what you go.
Also, for the sound, there are a few things you can do to quiet the ski without messing with hp. First, have a bung welded onto the outlet that goes thru the hull (exhaust) and inject water there. Or, you can inject it coming out of the waterbox. Injecting at the stinger has little to no effect on sound. Secondly, you can weld on a 'downturn' like the skock sxr has to point the exhaust coming out of the ski downward. It works as well. Doing both will take a ton of that throaty sound out of the ski without taking away much, if any power. The placebo of it being quieter will play tricks on you, but it isn't actually hurting power.
Also, go with the ADA head. Billet rarely if ever warps, plus the cooling passages are better. Its a small price to pay insurance.
Just an FYI.
Scottie
Also, for the sound, there are a few things you can do to quiet the ski without messing with hp. First, have a bung welded onto the outlet that goes thru the hull (exhaust) and inject water there. Or, you can inject it coming out of the waterbox. Injecting at the stinger has little to no effect on sound. Secondly, you can weld on a 'downturn' like the skock sxr has to point the exhaust coming out of the ski downward. It works as well. Doing both will take a ton of that throaty sound out of the ski without taking away much, if any power. The placebo of it being quieter will play tricks on you, but it isn't actually hurting power.
Also, go with the ADA head. Billet rarely if ever warps, plus the cooling passages are better. Its a small price to pay insurance.
Just an FYI.
Scottie
- Location
- California
Thank you @scottie mac ! You were a ton of help for this build!
I'm about to do an electrical overhaul on my Kawi powered B1 and this thread is where I have been going for information. Thanks again Rick for putting together a detailed build thread!
@scottie mac and @ChadGnarly helped me a ton too!
@scottie mac and @ChadGnarly helped me a ton too!