Blaster Rick's Detailed 1100 Blaster Conversion

[ItsRixter]

Looks like most are strongly recommending the B2 steering cable, so I bought one. Now realized that the cable ends are not compatible with the B1. Anyone know where to get those cable end which attach to the ball of the steering nozzle?

 

[jetx]

I bet jetmaniac has them

 

[ItsRixter]

I bet jetmaniac has them

I PM'd him this morning but no reply yet. thx

 

[mxr181]

I might have them...will look when I get a chance

 

[ItsRixter]

Finally back on this thing... This weekend I completed the pipe mod, added dual cooling and swapped out the couplers.

First the pipe mod. This consists of 4 items:

1- tap & plug the internal hole at location #1 of diagram
2- plug outter hole /jacket at location #1 of diagram
3- tap new stinger at location #2 in the diagram
4- tap & plug top pipe stinger (not pictured, different section of pipe)
5- some people perform an additional step of relocating the bottom (water exit) bass elbow, which is not needed if using a Rad Dudes plate. I will explain below

 

[ItsRixter]

Step 1 - tap & plug internal water jacket. I bought a stainless steel bolt (1/8), tap the hole and threw on some JB Weld and screwed it in.

 

[ItsRixter]

Step 2 - Screw in a 3/8 brass plug (notice top of pipe in picture)

Step 3 -Tap in new stinger. Tapped 3/8 thread. I used a fan sprayer tip (eliminating the need for a carb jet set into a straight brass barb) I installed it at 1:30 position so I could get to for adjustments.





i swapped that bottom brass elbow from 1/2 barb to 3/8 (keeping the stock threading)

 

[ItsRixter]

Comparison of straight barb vs fan sprayer. You do need to pay attention when installing the fan sprayer and make sure to point the fan toward the rear (in flow of exhaust)

 

[ItsRixter]

Step 4- Poll out stock brass barb and tap 3/8 thread. Install brass plug

 

[ItsRixter]

NO Step 5!

You do NOT need to move the bottom brass fitting if you are using a Rad Dudes conversion plate. It is cut out to allow the elbow to remain at its stock location. Top and bottom view:

 

[ItsRixter]

No need to move the elbow like this one (but boy those welds look sweet).

 

[ItsRixter]

FYI Waterboy33 did a great detailed write up if you want the inventory list and exact tap sizes etc:

http://www.pwctoday.com/showthread.php?t=383038

 

[ItsRixter]

Okay, now dual cooling. I chose to add dual cooling using all 3/8 fittings. The single cooling line is 1/2 but my cooling lines are all 3/8. Therefore, I took the stock one off and in stalled a 1/2 thread with 3/8 barb.
The new second line used a 3/8 thread with 3/8 barb.

I reassembled the exhaust and marked a location to tap:



Then i removed the manifold and tapped the marked location. I can turn the elbow in or out to run the cooling line by the original stock line. I later aeed JB Weld to the new fitting



Reassembled to test and verify



Swapped the stock blow for my new 3/8..all done (I thought I'd paint it) NOTE: this is a great time to install the starter/ battery cables. It wont be any easier to access the starter after the pipe install and the motor is sitting in the ski. I installed the long cable set from Rad Dudes

 

[ItsRixter]

I also tapped the head with two outer elbows for water exit (more water in, more water out = faster cooling)

 

[ItsRixter]

I took a wire wheel brush to the exhaust pipe and decided to paint it. Premiered it with flat black BBQ paint, then sprayed it with high temp gloss

 

[ItsRixter]

Lets see what this looks like if we just stack them together...

 

[Quinc]

Mods need to move this thread to the FAQ section! Great writeup!

 

[ItsRixter]

Remove driveline coupler- motor side.

Since this is putting a Kawai into a Yamaha, the couplers do not match up. The cheap route is to find another motor side kawai coupler and swap it onto the yamaha mid shaft. I hear the threads line up fine. I didn't know about this prior to buying the parts list rom my research months ago. I purchased the ADA couplers. They are smaller diameter which has less rotating mass ( and that is better I guess) but this requires buying new dampner (biscut). I selected the Rhass blue urethane since its stronger than the standard rubber ones.

I had the exhaust manifold removed for dual cooling. This allows me to stuff a rag up and into the cylinder. The rag acts as a flywheel holder, keeping the crankshaft from turning when trying to turn the coupler off. Heat the crap out of the coupler but dont burn the rear seal. The coupler is standard thread (not reversed thread), so turn counter clockwise with a breaker bar. I find heat combined with a quick yank or smack with a hammer to the breaker bar will get the coupler to release. It seems the sudden yank or impact is better than a bunch of torque

 

[ItsRixter]

Remove driveline coupler- mid shaft

I didnt have a mid shaft holder so I used a drive shaft tied into a vise pipe holder. A nut on the end of the drive shaft or installing the prop did not hold the shaft. You turn it counter clockwise so the prop (which is reverse threaded) come undone when trying to remove the coupler. So with this setup in the picture, i did similar to the motor coupler, heated it up, put on the breaker bar...then yanked and hammered the breaker bar.

 

[mxr181]

Nice! Get that thing done and bring it out! was down there most of the afternoon on sat.