RICKTER talk

I was just curious. Best advice is ride, ride, ride and read, read, read. You can learn a lot here and the internet, research everything you can. Ride as many hulls as you can. We went out to Havasu and rode a bunch and it really helped make our decision. I've been riding stand ups for years, jumping waves, going around buoys for fun and general lake riding. I decided last year I was going to learn to do back flips and other tricks. On my 10th try at a backflip with the new XFS, I got all the way around. Very happy with the XFS.
Thanks, will do. Any ideas on where to start the reading process?
 
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LOTO
We just searched the internet for Rickter and freestyle, read everything you find. TC Freeride, Thrust and dealers overseas have websites, Facebook, Instagram. Read everything on X-H2O, not just Rickter stuff, but stuff on engines, pumps, ignition, fuel systems, trim and other people's builds. You can learn a lot reading about others mistakes and successes. Talk to people selling skis and ask a lot of questions. If you don't understand something ask. I'm no expert, but I learned a lot doing all that.
 
For a first build and learning glass hulls are fine if not preferable because they will handle easier. Full carbon is nice but you wont really reap the rewards until you get pretty good. The short hull will allow you to get a backflip around even if its 120lbs you will just be lower. The super light hulls are harder to control in the water and will make setting up your tricks more difficult. Just food for thought.

I ride a glass XFR in flatwater and it is still far more capable than I am and it flips no problem. Take the $3k you save on the hull and put it in to your motor would be my 2C, then you can upgrade hull when you get better and have the right power plant already.
 
Carbon is way better than glass. I went from a glass xfs to a carbon circus. If your funds will allow, get a carbon hull and start with a smaller cc motor to learn the fundamentals. A big motor will only mask your faults as a rider.
 
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I run the stock scupper and never had an issue for the last 6 months. Ride surf and flat. I don't let the ski float for too long as I don't fancy flooding a 1200 with salt water.

Any she's packed up this weekend and sold.
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Had a good run with it and time for something new.



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Kohldanielzimmer

Sierra Nevada Runoff Rider
Site Supporter
Location
Ahwahnee, CA
Okay I got it off, reluctantly for sure.

Here are all the parts I received from thrust. I don't see how the bell shaped piece is held into the scupper tube. I didn't get any Orings. (Are there any?). Also, I have two very small set screws that I have no idea where they go.

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The bell shaped piece is a very tight fit into the the scupper tube. It's not going anywhere, especially once you epoxy the plate on the back. I did not use the set screws.


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Kohldanielzimmer

Sierra Nevada Runoff Rider
Site Supporter
Location
Ahwahnee, CA
Yeah. It's a must and I hope it works as well for me. First time i had the ski out it sat for 25 minutes on the shore with the ass end towards the river while my buddy was launching. Ski filled out with water to about the bottom of the carbs! Homie don't play that game.
 
This should be the standard in scupper design instead of the flap. I have no reason for a bilge pump now. Only reason I have a bilge pump in the ski now is incase of an emergency like water line or hood coming off


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Kohldanielzimmer

Sierra Nevada Runoff Rider
Site Supporter
Location
Ahwahnee, CA
The bell assembly does not fit flush in the tube. One side keeps pushing in deeper than the other...Frustrating. Did anyone else run into this? Suggestions?
 
The bell assembly does not fit flush in the tube. One side keeps pushing in deeper than the other...Frustrating. Did anyone else run into this? Suggestions?

That is how they fit in the edge because of the angle of the rear of the hull. I filled the void with epoxy. Silicone or 5200 would work fine as well. It's just a cosmetic issue, it doesn't effect the function of the ball


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