Super Jet Solas Mag Pump Ate My Bearings- How About You?

Solas does not give out an engineered size or spec. I will give out my opinion on the correct size required since my background as a machinist/millwright/mechanical consultant and amateur gynecologist for 25 years allows me to do so!
Some simple rules are followed to come up with the proper size,
1)the rotating part gets the tight fit, this is the shaft, my opinion is it should have a m6 fit at 25mm(.9851"/.9846")
2)the static part (pump) gets the loose fit (clearance) there are 2 fits here that will work but the first one H7 52mm(2.0472"/2.0484") leaves no room for error as 2.0472" is the actual bearing outside diameter and most machinists will shoot for the smallest size of the tolerance.
This leads me to G7 52mm(2.0476"/2.0488) as my favorite, it allows .0004" clearance which will still be required to be pressed in even though it is a 'loose' fit. The loose end of that fit may allow more bearing creep which could were the pump prematurely so try not to go there. If you chose the tighter H7 fit a C3 bearing will give a bit more allowance, but a standard SKF 6205 bearing is rated at 14000 rpm so it will work fine if all sizes are correct.
Just my opinion, but I do this stuff all day long everyday (unlike the gynecology part, she picks which days!)
 
Last edited:
Location
dfw

If the aft bearing is bottomed it can preload the front with no good way to back it off. At this point the front bearing is overloaded in thrust. A 6205 bearing has little thrust capacity to begin with. Solas should cut out the extra material and use 6305 bearings. This will save weight and double the load carrying capacity.
 
Last edited:
Location
dfw
If I am thinking correctly the collar portion of the shaft would be cut back 5.6mm from each side to accept the 5205?

The critical load is axial not radial, this is where 6205s are weak. The easiest way out is by installing a 5205 in the front and a 6205 at rear without completely bottoming the rear bearing. The overly tight fit should be addressed as well, this along with careless installation is killing the already weak front bearing. Yamahas 1200 and larger boats use the small 6205 at front but it does not carry thrust loads. Thrust is routed through a collar to the aft bearing where a deeper grooved 6304 is bolted to the end of the shaft. An opposing 7205 spindle bearing arrangement at the front would also work but is overkill. The Solas pump should have been designed for a larger 6305 since it will fit inside the large hub that is now just dead weight. The existing stator could be turned out but the cone would need a method of attachment.
 
Last edited:
Have you ever done this to a pump? After looking at the specs, I really like the idea of using the 5205 bearing. I gather from your post that you think that a 5205 for the front bearing and 6205 for the rear would suffice if that change was made? If I am going to have a machine shop check the internal clearance of the housing, I might as well have them turn the shaft for the double row bearing. Would there be any downside to going with the double row?
 
Kind of crazy how hit or miss these Solas pumps are. I put one in my Trinity Matrix last year and I didn't even use a press to assemble it, I used a hammer and it lasted all of last season and the new owner has ran it all of this season with no problems as well.
 
Location
dfw
Have you ever done this to a pump? After looking at the specs, I really like the idea of using the 5205 bearing. I gather from your post that you think that a 5205 for the front bearing and 6205 for the rear would suffice if that change was made? If I am going to have a machine shop check the internal clearance of the housing, I might as well have them turn the shaft for the double row bearing. Would there be any downside to going with the double row?

A 5205 was used behind 1100s without problems. Considering its greater thrust capacity it should be a standard mod for larger engines.
 
From what I have read, some people are having better luck with them it seems. I have purchased sealed bearings for my next install. I have a sealed Nachi 6205 for the rear and a sealed American made SKF 5205 bearing for the front. Both are C3 clearance. I plan on having the shaft turned to accept the double roller bearing and have the housing clearance checked by a machine shop. If this doesn't fix the problem, I may throw the whole mess in the trash can.
 

spookyjjj

Back @ it
Location
Billings Mt
From what I have read, some people are having better luck with them it seems. I have purchased sealed bearings for my next install. I have a sealed Nachi 6205 for the rear and a sealed American made SKF 5205 bearing for the front. Both are C3 clearance. I plan on having the shaft turned to accept the double roller bearing and have the housing clearance checked by a machine shop. If this doesn't fix the problem, I may throw the whole mess in the trash can.

Please post the progress..... I don't want a paper weight either lol
 

High Speed Industries

Your one stop shop for quality parts @highspeedind
I'm not sure if you guys have seen my thread. It might help some of you out.
http://www.x-h2o.com/threads/137372-How-I-assembled-my-solas-pump-without-a-press&highlight=
I really don't think solas has been making a bad product. I've seen many posts about how the pump is machined wrong and all sorts of other stuff. If you have that big of a problem with it just buy a skat trak or go back to stock. I had issues at first and I addressed those issues in the thread. I found a better way to install the bearings and now I have no issues. Check out the thread and see if it would work for you.
 
Location
Oregon
This makes me want to take mine apart and check it immediately. I don't want to ruin my shiny new driveshaft either. Mine wasn't "notchy" after install, but I'm still nervous. I wish I would have known about this sooner, I have inside micrometers to measure and see if the hole is in fact tapered or not. Didn't even think about it at the time...

Update: I removed my pump and my bearings are still silky smooth. Probably about 60 hours on it, so I think I'm safe. Note: I installed my bearings with a press.
 
My machine shop ended up using a fine flapper wheel to increase bore diameter for a more gentle "press fit". (trial method) I have a brief video clip of it but cannot convert the file to post it here. If you're interested, shoot me a pm with your email and I'll send it to you. Bearing installation described in post #135 is commendable.
 

Byeai

"Cheetos-Man"
Location
Melbourne FL
My machine shop ended up using a fine flapper wheel to increase bore diameter for a more gentle "press fit". (trial method) I have a brief video clip of it but cannot convert the file to post it here. If you're interested, shoot me a pm with your email and I'll send it to you. Bearing installation described in post #135 is commendable.

It works I have 15 gallons through one right now

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk
 

stagesrt4

see ya out there
Site Supporter
Location
St Charles IL
i did Rdrttoy trick on mine n it worked extremely well

granted ive only put around 3-4 hours on mine but she appears to be solid still... Ill pull this weekend to check again.
 

tor*p*do

Squarenose FTW
Site Supporter
Location
NW NC
I went back to stock
Miss the thrust of the mag
but I like to ride, not wrench
 
Top Bottom