Have you taken a little off the top of the pump shoe? lf not,grind off a little bit of the shoe where it makes contact with the pump cavity,so it will come up just a bit.Make sense.....?
Hey Don, yeah man I took the tall lip off the pump shoe. I actually took too much off a few weeks ago, but patched it with epoxy. The shoe is sitting sound and tight against the tunnel lip.
Is the shoe already sealed into the hull? It looks like the lip of the pump shoe is already sitting high inside the tunnel... I would machine down the pump shoe fins and raise the shoe slightly, IF where the pump shoe and intake tunnel meet doesn't already have a gap (which it looks like it does). Then shim up the pump.
Is the drawing an accurate representation of how the shaft is sitting in the bulk head? Not only the height/position inside the engine compartment but the angle of the shaft? I would say if the shaft is angled up (down in your pictures), then machining the tabs would be the answer. Or sanding down the hull if it is thick enough there. I would have to do the math to figure out the height difference and angle if you were to machine down 3/32", but if the current angle of the shaft in relation to the rest of the driveline is 0* I would imagine doing this could potentially throw off the midshaft alignment if the angle is too severe.
That was my second though. To fill the voids (core outs) in the pump shoe with JB Weld and then grind down the fins on the shoe so that the shoe essentially can be raised up to where the pump is sitting (this all under the premise that the ski is flipped upside down, meaning raising the shoe is actually moving it in the direction of the bottom deck).
I can't say what the angle of the shaft is, but the shaft is sitting very low in the firewall hole. I also thought about sanding down the hull too where the pump rests, the only problem being that if I do that, it will solve the misalignment of the pump to shoe, but it will actually make the shaft even lower in the firewall hole (ski upside down, again).
I think I misunderstood your post...
By top you mean the top in relation to his pictures (upside down) or top as in where it meets the pump cavity? If you mean the latter, then it looks like grinding the top off the shoe would set the shoe into the pump tunnel flush, but wouldn't this worsen the alignment issues? I might be way off and interpreting his pictures all wrong...
This is what I would do, and take it with a grain of salt because I have never built an SF and don't know the ins and outs of that hull, but with that being said... Assuming your shoe isn't already glued in, I would grind down the top (where it meets the cavity) so that the shoe would fit flush like sano said. After it is test fitted and flush, I would remove the shoe and align and secure the shoe to the pump so it doesn't move. Then set the pump/shoe into the cavity together and shim the pump so it's center and aligned with the midshaft and bolt it down. This should put your pump shoe in alignment with the rest of the driveline. From there, assuming that the gaps aren't too severe, I would grind down the shoe to fit the hull correctly and transition any gaps by sanding/filling them. Of course if we end up with like a 1/2" off (which it shouldn't be), then this isn't going to work.
Correct, shoe is not glued in yet. That's a good thought here, grind and fill in the difference from the shoe to the pump ring. I like this. I might do a combination of grinding the fins to allow the shoe to sit higher, and filling/grinding the abutment between the shoe and wear ring.
looks like the pump needs to be shimmed the drive shaft is high in the intermediate, if you shim the back down it should bring th front up.
Can't shim any lower, there are no shims. I can only go up, unless I grind.
