The Waternut Stunt hull build

[grezzmky]

Which in theory will actually make them less buoyant, because the air will weigh more. The bottles still displace the same volume of water.

True, you will have more air in them because the air will be more dense hence more weight.

 

[sportfish258]

White water bladders I think are the best option. Hydro turf them or use some other outer cover to protect them from fiberglas splinters . You could effectively stuff them up front , around the motor , and in the tray area . They are also easy to remove and de funk (smell) .

 

[WAB]

Which in theory will actually make them less buoyant, because the air will weigh more. The bottles still displace the same volume of water.

My thinking was that compare submerging a plastic bottle under water and the pressiure of the water can compress the air in the bottle making it dent in. A pressurized bottle will not compress under water.
I did not even think of the weight of AIR in the bottles. :bad3:

 

[Waternut]

White water bladders I think are the best option. Hydro turf them or use some other outer cover to protect them from fiberglas splinters . You could effectively stuff them up front , around the motor , and in the tray area . They are also easy to remove and de funk (smell) .

This was basically what I was thinking of doing. The bladders I used in the past were pretty stout and I wouldn't think a fiberglass spliter would really puncture it. I plan to give it a little more thought before making any final decisions... guess that's one luxury of getting out before anyone else.

 

[yamanube]

Where can you find these bladders?

 

[sjetrider]

someone needs to take an old hull. Defoam it and test some of these theories. Or just borrow Skywalkers high tech fishfinder later.

 

[GDFL]

there are too many tubes, inserts, etc to make an air bladder practical enough to do any good. Fiberglass splinters WILL puncture one without breaking a sweat. You also have to think about the vibration that will chew right through a bladder.

 

[Idok]

My thinking was that compare submerging a plastic bottle under water and the pressiure of the water can compress the air in the bottle making it dent in. A pressurized bottle will not compress under water.
I did not even think of the weight of AIR in the bottles. :bad3:

which will be 100% negligable.........MAYBE you could measure it in grams, maybe

there are too many tubes, inserts, etc to make an air bladder practical enough to do any good. Fiberglass splinters WILL puncture one without breaking a sweat. You also have to think about the vibration that will chew right through a bladder.

Im with G here....



if someone wanted to try it cheap use a couple old bicycle tubes....

 

[WaveDemon]

if someone wanted to try it cheap use a couple old bicycle tubes....

be ready to pump them up every week or so.

 

[Waternut]

Bicycle tubes aren't that light. Here is the kayak bladder I was looking at. http://www.campmor.com/outdoor/gear/Product___72730WC

Before I fork over the money for 2-3 of those, I put a $2 pool inner tube in one side last night to see how it will hold up. I'll admit that option is pretty ghetto but I figured if that will hold up to a couple rides, one of those kayak bladders will hold up as well. I figure if this does work, I'll still need something to allow water to pass underneath so it can exit out the scupper.

 

[Waternut]

Took out the Go Pro wide attached to my helmet today. It's currently being flipped/converted/uploaded. I'll post it soon.

I'm still having cavitation issues... It's not all the time and I can't seem to pinpoint it but you will definitely be able to hear it. The only thing I can think of that could be causing it is the pump tunnel has a slight wave in it and maybe the pump isn't perfectly sealed to the shoe. I would think if the pump wasn't perfectly sealed, I would get cavitation any time the rpms drop down and I'm going slow. Anyone got any ideas?

 

[ncbrock]

idk maybe try a different intake grate? I cant think of anything, and your right about the pump not being sealed you would get cavitation all the time.

 

[McDog]

Didn't you reshape part of that area? Maybe something to do with that?

 

[Waternut]

I only put bondo around the lip so there wasn't a sharp edge where the hull halves meet. If water gets that high, I'm screwed anyway.

Here is the video... You can see in the video that the ski is dangerously close to subbing accidentally when I'm going in a straight line. Which is exactly opposite of what chips is experiencing so obviously there is a fairly fine line to balance this hull out. When the hull is planed off, it takes almost all my effort just to keep the nose. That kills my back after only a few minutes. I'm going to cut the rideplate tonight or tomorrow sometime and hopefully that will help. I'll see if I can figure out the cavitation (or whatever it is) as well.

 

[Waternut]

Didn't you reshape part of that area? Maybe something to do with that?

I see what you're saying now... I did rework the area where the pump shoe meets the hull but I sealed it up real good and there are no major lips going into the pump except for the pump seal. Maybe my next step is to try and put some goop around the seal itself.

 

[McDog]

Maybe you are spinning your prop because the ski is so much lighter. The florida crew was having problems like that with their speedfreak hulls.

 

[chips]

wow good to know about the subing problem. that makes me feel like a couple inch shorter turn plate may actually fix my little problem. seems to ride good though and be controlable since the nose does stay down. you think that'll fix my problem??

 

[chips]

o also, im a little disapointed there were no bf attempts...lol

 

[Flash-FX]

Loose the top loader deep scoop grate, use a cheap open style grate (like a Pro- Tec ).

 

[RiverRat]

Do you like the hull itself as far as handling or are you starting to question the purchase?