This melt down just might have me stumped..

[Roseand]

On a low pressure test. If you plugged motor at the top of the manifold. The reads are not going to act as a seal. They will not cause the cases to hold pressure. The pressure is held at the point you blocked off the intake track. How many tanks do you have on the new piston?

This isn't what I mean at all lol sorry.
I know that they don't cause the cases to hold pressure. What I'm saying is that maybe there's a slight leak where the cages meet up with the intake manifold. That would not show up on a leak down test.

 

[Roseand]

Have a bout a tank on the new piston

 

[Big Kahuna]

This isn't what I mean at all lol sorry.
I know that they don't cause the cases to hold pressure. What I'm saying is that maybe there's a slight leak where the cages meet up with the intake manifold. That would not show up on a leak down test.

Where did you seal off the intake to do your test?

 

[Roseand]

Where the carb bolts to

 

[Big Kahuna]

Have a bout a tank on the new piston

Your not broke in yet. Put another tank through it before you start trying to tune.

 

[Big Kahuna]

Where the carb bolts to

If your motor held pressure, then you do not have a leak at the reed cages.

 

[Roseand]

Holeshot says the plug reading doesnt have anything to do with the break in, but I was planning on running it some more for that reason

 

[Roseand]

If your motor held pressure, then you do not have a leak at the reed cages.

Where the cages bolt into the intake manifold, it could leak there but it wouldn't show up on the pressure test because that's before where the intake manifold seals... That's what I mean.

 

[Roseand]

I'm gonna put another hour or two on it tonight and just see what they look like after normal riding. Gonna put new plugs in tonight before I ride too. That rear plug is so dark..

 

[Big Kahuna]

swap plugs.

 

[Roseand]

I'll ride it some more today and see what kind of readings I get.

 

[Ducky]

Buy 2 brand new plugs and start fresh. They are 2 bucks each. Get the solid tops.

 

[Roseand]

Will do.

 

[speedysprocket]

Typically, you don't start WOT until well into the second tank... Typically want to very the throttle constantly in the low to mid throttle range for the first tank to help the rings seat. 15 minutes riding, let engine cool completely. 15 minutes riding, cool completely, and repeat several times.
Which cylinder has the pulse line for the carb though...? Maybe you've got an air leak in the pulse line hose or the fuel pump...
Oh, and rule of thumb is more than a turn out on the high speed screw means go up in main jet size...

 

[Roseand]

Typically, you don't start WOT until well into the second tank... Typically want to very the throttle constantly in the low to mid throttle range for the first tank to help the rings seat. 15 minutes riding, let engine cool completely. 15 minutes riding, cool completely, and repeat several times.
Which cylinder has the pulse line for the carb though...? Maybe you've got an air leak in the pulse line hose or the fuel pump...
Oh, and rule of thumb is more than a turn out on the high speed screw means go up in main jet size...

When I had my cylinders bored, zack at PHP told me to make sure everything was running like it should and then just ride it like you normally do since today's boring/machining techniques are way more accurate. For example, we sell stihl equipment, and Stihl says for their chainsaws which run at higher rpm, that once out of the box you should warm it up and then run it WOT for a few seconds at a time..
But I'm planning in taking it a little easier this tank. It's a single carb but the pulse line is closer to the front cylinder.

I could lean it out but I don't have a tach setup yet so I'm playing it safe and running it rich

 

[speedysprocket]

Is the front cylinder the one you thing is lean?

 

[Roseand]

Yes

 

[kevbo]

Your plugs will be black if the pilot/popoff is rich enough to sputter below the pipe, which is the way all freestyle tunes should be. This is why looking at your plugs is such a waste of time. After a couple of tanks, tune the top screw for best acceleration.

 

[Roseand]

Your plugs will be black if the pilot/popoff is rich enough to sputter below the pipe, which is the way all freestyle tunes should be. This is why looking at your plugs is such a waste of time. After a couple of tanks, power tune the top screw and call it good.

You don't think that variance is anything to worry about if it runs like it should..?

 

[Big Kahuna]

When I had my cylinders bored, zack at PHP told me to make sure everything was running like it should and then just ride it like you normally do since today's boring/machining techniques are way more accurate. For example, we sell stihl equipment, and Stihl says for their chainsaws which run at higher rpm, that once out of the box you should warm it up and then run it WOT for a few seconds at a time..
But I'm planning in taking it a little easier this tank. It's a single carb but the pulse line is closer to the front cylinder.

I could lean it out but I don't have a tach setup yet so I'm playing it safe and running it rich

Single Cylinder Chainsaw and Twin Cylinder at 82mm are different animals. That chainsaw is going to cool down faster. You are able to break it in faster. With your ski, you have alot of alum there which holds heat. That is why you need to let it cool longer.