Super Jet Who is running epic hx3 on 61x?

OCD Solutions

Original, Clean and Dependable Solutions
Location
Rentz, GA
@Ocd. My HX was giving me the hard cranking and engine kick back on start up issue. I've narrowed it to the HX or my stator..... My pulse coil is putting out 3v A/C while cranking. The only spec I can find is from JSS in a thread calling for 4 to 7 v A/C on the pulse coil.

You have some expertise here, I was wondering your opinion on my pulse coil output

Thanks

I would have to do some digging for the HX. I haven't looked at anything Seadoo related since I discovered Yamaha, especially Seadoo electronics.
 

swapmeet

Brotastic
Location
Arlington TX
Not really a secret but it was done on the down low. ScottS came to me about a year ago with the idea to sleeve the hub of his cracked TBM so we did it. At this point it's seen almost double the hours with the sleeve than without.

I have done 2 more with much more severe hub cracks since but I do not believe either owner has found the balls to run them yet. It's a risky venture but the alternative is accepting a $500 paperweight. The one owner had to weld up and repair the keyway prior to getting the sleeve done.

Ahhhh I think I can see it now.

Hmm... interesting.
 

Roseand

The Weaponizer
Site Supporter
Location
Wisconsin
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So are you gonna tell me all your secrets or nah.

Mine spun the woodruff key in the keyway... So its a little different issue. But now you have me wondering if its repairable.

BTW, it looks like you just turned it so I can't see the area that was cracked.
Haha thanks for that gif, I'm watching that show as we speak lol
 

OCD Solutions

Original, Clean and Dependable Solutions
Location
Rentz, GA
I do all my testing with a peak voltage meter so I actually don't know the values are in AC. I will be doing some testing tomorrow though and can pull out a meter and see what I get.
 
Here's a pic of the cheap, Ebay sourced meters I use for pulse and charge coil testing while cranking engine. They don't have to be +/- 1% like the US made meters in the other pic.P1050367.JPG
 

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Roseand

The Weaponizer
Site Supporter
Location
Wisconsin
Nooo! Heck no. My ski runs pretty damn good. But before my ski was 90% tuned perfectly, but advancing my timing made some things more noticeable. Don't think it's an epic issue. Ski runs like a bat outta hell.
 

OCD Solutions

Original, Clean and Dependable Solutions
Location
Rentz, GA
Here's a pic of the cheap, Ebay sourced meters I use for pulse and charge coil testing while cranking engine. They don't have to be +/- 1% like the US made meters in the other pic.

Not to mention that it doesn't hurt as much when you blow one up. You can buy 10 of the Chinese ones for what you might pay for a good used, made in the US, one.

I see quite a few of guys running the AC meters and quoting AC values. I guess it's tech that most guys have already but all the service manuals spec out their values in Peak Volts and advise using Peak Voltage meters. I invested in a PV adapter for my Fluke meter but also purchased DC analog gauges and then built simple Peak voltage circuits onto the backs of each gauge.

I do however tend to takes things a bit further than most are willing. As is evident by my test bench that runs up to 10,000 rpm. :)


540ed5d6bc49c73ea41d5a937f1be115.jpg
 
Location
Stockton
Nooo! Heck no. My ski runs pretty damn good. But before my ski was 90% tuned perfectly, but advancing my timing made some things more noticeable. Don't think it's an epic issue. Ski runs like a bat outta hell.

Is it rough running down low at the slower speeds, such as when making a set up wake ?

The flat part of the curve between 0 and 2 k with no advance in that period can make it sound like that. At lest mine did, engine did not like flat timing with increasing rpm. Then once the curve at 2k or above was reached and the timing started advancing, then engine started ripping
 

Roseand

The Weaponizer
Site Supporter
Location
Wisconsin
Is it rough running down low at the slower speeds, such as when making a set up wake ?

The flat part of the curve between 0 and 2 k with no advance in that period can make it sound like that. At lest mine did, engine did not like flat timing with increasing rpm. Then once the curve at 2k or above was reached and the timing started advancing, then engine started ripping

Mine sounds like what OCD is talking about. When making a setup wake occasionally it loads up a little bit. It helped a little bit when I turned in my low speed screw a half a turn and got worse turning it out a turn and a half.
 
Location
Stockton
Mine sounds like what OCD is talking about. When making a setup wake occasionally it loads up a little bit. It helped a little bit when I turned in my low speed screw a half a turn and got worse turning it out a turn and a half.

Not the idle lope, that's normal and good, it's that set wake speed part Iam mentioning..

your curve may look similar to this. My engine did not like this curve, rough running so to speak above idle at step up wake speed, not smooth and Crisp before the advance hits. Had to bring the timing on earlier.

image.jpg
 
I usually bring the timing on sooner, but really idle is set around 1200-1500. I also run a little bit more peak, steeper ramp, hold is longer, and less steep ramp out. Think of it how total loss will work once setup.
 

OCD Solutions

Original, Clean and Dependable Solutions
Location
Rentz, GA
Here's mine. Blue is Surf, Red is flatwater. Pulls hard from top to bottom but I have a powervalve engine.

Boyer's 5th curve 8800rpm.jpg
 
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