@QJS
I know you have done a ton of testing on these. Many like myself have had no issues but many out there are posting about problems. It has got to the point of Epic's having a reputation for being quirky and I am sure you don't want that. Your customer service to me over the years has been nothing short of awesome so I know you are a good guy. You have already posted on this thread so everyone knows you are reading all of these comments and are willing to engage others on the thread.
I'm going to ask you to please talk a bit about the testing you have done to let everyone know the effort put into these units and what they can take. Please address the speculations on heat buildup as a possible problem. Have you gathered random used ignition systems to run with the epic and discovered any "usual" weak links? I expect you have. That would be incredibly helpful to those who have problems from the get go. It seems like it wouldn't hurt to discuss your opinions and knowledge of common issues here.
All of the people you called out for bashing you seem to have responded with either apologies or respectful clarifications so I really don't think this is a hostile environment for discussion. I hope you consider it. I would love to hear what you think instead of a bunch of random conjecture.
Are you running four epics?That's what I'm doing on 4 skis
I have the original Epic in 3 of my skis, and in one of my friends skis- all are working well. They do like a proper bat voltage while cranking.Are you running four epics?
Good battery with at least 12.4v ocv and good cables and starter so voltage while cranking wont drop too low, stator with a charge coil that is not "tired"- (check resistance brown to ground). Engines that have very high compression have more current draw while cranking- thus lower voltage. ( if near shore, lift pump up to reduce drag). Be sure to insulate the programming cable plug (Mik. n/s cover works well)This ^^^
I would like to know what components need to be in great working order before attempting to run an hx3.
Paul Lehr swears by those plugs and I have run them a while with no issues. I used them with a Flame1 and Flame2 ignition.So I may have found something on mine, Maybe. Btw, Chris at air time has been great even 1.5 years after I purchased my HX3. Still answers every email and every question .
Problem started after an engine install. Symptoms, hard labored cranking, cranking kick back, rut rut rut, lock, rut rut rut, lock, rut rut starts. Cranking timing with a light shows 12 to 14 deg both cylinders. After the 2 revolution spark delay, the spark starts and the issue is their.
I find no amount of adjustments fix or alter it. My pulse coil puts out 3V AC with only a slight, minimal toggle of the meter needle at cranking speed. I find a spec from JSS of 4 to 7V AC @ cranking speed with needle toggle using an analog meter.
So far it's looking like my pulse coils low output is suspect for sure.
Tonight I decide to change my spark plugs, look crusty on outside and I find have Polaris long reach plugs BPR8ES installed, must have been some mixed in my box order.
Iam speculating this long reach plug may be a factor as well. It puts the spark like 3 to 4mm further into the cylinder. Maybe Instead of igniting the fuel from the dome and burning down towards the piston, it's igniting 3 to 4mm further in the chamber, burning up to dome and down to piston causing deto and kick back.
Might be reaching a bit but it's all I've found and It's consistent with the symptoms. Either way I don't like it.
It's a dasa 1200 @220 psi
View attachment 286469 View attachment 286470
I don't wish to upset those who are disappointed but the contents of these boxes work just fine, and no, I do not get any royalties from anyone. This has been cost effective for me. I do like the performance of the Msd t/l system better (big spark) - have one- but I don't feel like paying that much money for a system for which I have to build a custom watertight enclosure that does not even use marine grade cabling. Afterall, I'm on water, not on dirt or hard surface.View attachment 286618
All my skis, including the one with t/l have a cranking pressure of 185 -190 psi (13 atm, I think). They do fine on 93 octane. From previous experience I know I could get by with 200 psi, but that gets risky if I let a racer buddy "test drive" it - yep, seized one. I helped someone install a gen 1 epic in a 235 psi engine with jetinetics f/l. Did not crank so good unless on trailer or lift pump out of water. But geez, a loop trooper with that kind of engine would be expected to have t/l.
Yes, whatever it takes to have the engine crank fast enough.- That may also be difficult with some light weight batteries.
I've had a failing stator do that to me as well but it should be pretty easy to replicate if it's the EPIC. Would you be interested in sending it to me to test?