650/X-2 winter x2 build

Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
Read my 1st build. It does fit but it's sort of a pain in the ass. The exhaust manifold put the headpipe into the hull. You need to either A) used a westcoast 650 exhaust manifold (what most people do) and consider boring it open a little more (I did not) or B) cut the hull and glass a bubble to accomidate the headpipe. The 750 limited pipe bleeds down infront of the motor. This sort of sucks. I recall the pipe doesn't fit very well with the stock gas tank. You said you wanted to do a cart tank so it shouldn't be a problem for you. The other thing that sucks is that the 750 exhaust is designed to bleed to a waterbox down the left side of the motor with the box behind the motor. You can't fit a waterbox behind the motor, so you need to plumb it up to the front of the boat. I get a SJ limited chamber and have been very pleased with the fit. The 750 pipe can fit but is a bit more troublesome. It's actually designed for the motor though, so if you can use it, I say go for it. I am running a stock RN SJ waterbox and a blaster exhaust outlet and am pretty happy with the setup.

I did fit a FPP 750 limited pipe in my boat if you find my 1st build. There's a pictre in there of the alignment issue with the FPP manifold too.
 
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Thank you very much for the info! Im going down to my storage here in a few hours to get some work done. I will take some pictures of some different ideas on the water box. Is it possable to go with out water box, do a in line silencer, or just strait piped? Im guess ing it would be very loud with strait to rear exhaust. The water box I have plan for using, its just a strait through pipe with little tiny cups that come up on the sides like a cheese grater. it reminds me of a glass pack kinda.
 

Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
Do not run without a waterbox. Just putting a jetflow valve on my ski made it louder. I don't know about your idea. There's a thread about someone building an inline waterbox like you descibe on the forum. I don't think it was ever finished and sold, but you can look it up for ideas.
 
Last year I got 2 warnings with it coming out the side. But I was thinking about doing that then turn my exhaust pipe to a scrupper.Now I can't decide!!! Ideas would be great
 
Also when I pulled my exhaust fitting off the side of my ski it had tons of cracks around it. So it needs repaired bad. so I could re drill a exhaust hole or just leave it covered.
 

Vumad

Super Hero, with a cape!
Location
St. Pete, FL
Last year I got 2 warnings with it coming out the side. But I was thinking about doing that then turn my exhaust pipe to a scrupper.Now I can't decide!!! Ideas would be great

Warnings for what? They were built with side exhaust. The only law is they are not allowed to be louder than stock. If you left it on the left side, they can't say anything. It's like having an early model SX w/o a lanyard. It didn't come with one, you're not required to have it. However, you're modifying your ski so just make it right. If you put in a side exhaust, install it all the way back in the engine compartment as far as it will go. That way it is more submerged at idle. If a cop thinks a rear exhaust is going to be submerged at wide open, he's an idiot and should probably look at the back of his boat.
 
wow, youve got a mess! you will be getting veryyy itchy... im not sure why you cut off the bond rail on the sides... it is the BOND rail you know lol
 
Day 7

Sorry guess, With my vacation and the snow here I've had a tuff time making it down to my shop but finally got down there and got some good work done.

I did a layer of bondo hair (renforcing with fiberglass in it) on the front of my ski. Then sanded it down and got all my dips out of my fiberglass work. Then I did a very thin layer of bondo to take out the pin holes and imperfections. I know I not suppost to be using bondo but most of it will be sanded off before I get to primer.

Where the bond rail use to be, I have a bought 1/4 inch of fiberglass on it plus bondo hair below and above it. Then I have done atleast 1/4 maybe more on the inside reinforcing. I am not wearied one bit about the front end.

I'm going down there today to do some sanding and finish up work for the weekend. my goal is to have it in prime over Christmas break. Sorry for the slow progress. I'm hoping to pick up my progress by makeing it down to my shop a few time a week for the next few weeks. my factory pipe, R&D head, and electronics should be hear this week if I"m lucky! Still looking for short block so hopefully by christmas I will have one here to fill the engine compartment.
 
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Sorry I forgot to post the pictures!

-the first two are of my water box / silencer
-last ones are of my fuel tank, one is with the tank 4 inch higher than bottom.

Edit:the pictures of the inside are before I did the reinforcing but I did scrape away all the foam so its very clean
 

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Good news!! Just bought a motor. 750 bored 1 over to 763, freestyle ported, Lightend/trued pro x pistons, machined for 650 electronics, cames with brand new ada head with 22cc domes but need to trade them for 26 or 28, also comes with dual stage boyessen's, freestyle pump cone, lightend fly wheel. Can wait its going to be built tomorrow so hopefully have it next week!

Also just got done repainting and rebuilding the carbs so they are very fresh now will post pictures tomorrow.
 

RivMan

doing something stupid...
Site Supporter
Location
Pinckney, MI
Looking good!

Check your compression before you swap out the domes in the head, Porting can lower the compression ratio to the point that you want to run the smaller domes.

-Rob
 
Okay I will do that. This has only had the exhaust ports widened so shouldn't effect the compression but who knows it might. Just the 22cc's will run a sp at about 220 to 225 and I need to be in the 180 to 190 range.
 
Location
Pa
takes balls to start cutting up your ski but if you had reinforced the nose from the inside you would not have had to use any bondo, bondo is a no no. it is weak and heavy. In the future, you want to use epoxy because it cures stronger and lighter than poly resin(x2 hulls are epoxy). also the fiber mat has a horrrrrible wet out and takes far too much resin to get a full wet out. fiber cloth say 2 layers of 17oz cloth would have been better layed up on the inside,and stronger with cloth. you would have had alooot less sanding to do and your angles come out cleaner, easier. remember resin is not the strong part, it only sets the material you are glassing with<the fiberglass cloth, kevlar, carbon fibre... the goal is to use as little resin as possible to get a complete transluscent wet out of the cloth
 
On the nose of my ski I didn't know the differece in foams So when I layed my first layers of colth it melted the foam so There were some very minor sink holes.


This is my first fiberglass build so Its going to be a little ruffer than projected. My plan Is to save up for gen 2 epic carbon fiber hull from trinity hulls before I get done with college. Then this hull will be a very nice ceiling ordainment. I will plan on transplanting everything to the new hull. This defenetly a learning experence
 
Got over the sickness last night finaly... So I opened up the pipe package and took some pictures. I think I am going to repaint it, Do you think engine block paint would be the smartest? I am going to run by a powder coating shop see what kind of deal I could get if they powder coat my pipe set up. Would a light blue coat be good or would it not last long?


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