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I was wondering that, do you know if Cold Fusion make throttle and trim levers that bolt up to their fat bars? I also heard that cold fusion = Blowsion risers, anyone know if this is true and had the same issue?

Ok slightly different tack, I'll buy RRP risers to finish this one off with the levers I already have. Is there trim and throttle levers that will fit the cold fusion risers without having grind them out?

I thought of that for the start stop, but the levers are black anodised

hey, I bought some cold fusion riser bars to go with the pro steering system. All looks nice till I go to bolt OEM start/stop on and the bar is too fat. Same with trim and throttle levers. Anyone run theses bars?

Clearing customs won't be a problem if the ski is clean and declared value is less than $1000. Just need to find an airline that accepts it under sporting goods.

Cheapest way to send it will be by sea as part of a container load. He can list it on Uship and look for a good rate. To get the duties lower, you can declare the value of the ski a lot lower than what it is really worth, but he will have to insure it for the same value as well. You would...

There are some threads on here already about exhaust port heights, bottom end power etc. I have a Blaster 2 with completely stock 760. It is reported to be a 90HP engine in a 385lb boat. It has enough bottom end in that trim to jump out of the hole when you open the taps. I think the issue...

Ok, my mates boat for race, no decking, which I presume your doing to lower the exhaust port? I just use 61X cylinder with a sleeve from Watcon for 85mm piston and lower port timing.

My mate is running a 760 in a superjet. He has MRD fuel injection and MSD TL on it. Won the last round racing open class on it, so it's plenty fast.

Krash Indistries JB1 with the Solas 144mm pump and trim. In Australia, the weather is getting warmer, but the surf smaller, but we try to ride it anyway.

I use Pro-bolt from UK. They are very pricey, so if you find a cheaper alternative post it up please. http://www.probolt-usa.com/stainless-steel-flanged-nut-m10-x-1-25mm-fine.html#.VFQVSt3XerU

Looks like this. Guy I bought it from doesn't know.

Rhaas make adapters for you kwaka guys to join the light! I just bought a TNT chamber from a guy on Ozfreeride, same price as the replica sells for but the real deal. I'm stoked.

Hey Wax, My mechanic was probably talking about triples and firing order.....I just assumed same thing happening with 760

I'm liking the ideas beings shared on this thread. No need to go bigger than 900cc No need for 91mm Pistons. Hey my next build is going to cheaper, they usually get dearer.

Tuning is a lost art...... In Perth, Western Australia....my mechanic is working on skis that have pipes and pods with stock carb set ups. So even just basic tuning, changing the spring weight for pop off pressure isn't being done. Little alone the real art of tuning.

Superjetjim, The crank in a 760 is the same as a 50hp 650. I have read it was a warranty issue, so Yamaha retarded the rear cylinder and lowered the comp on that that cylinder. Interesting point my mechanic pointed out. The pump loads the crankshaft on the rear. The Yamaha twins firing...

Ok, as Tim has pointed out, the bottom end some people obsess about doesn't get you anywhere. So running a heavy flywheel v's a super light TL flywheel would have to fall into the same argument. As I understand it, its really only the snap off the idle that there is going to a be measurable...

And a completely stock 760 is a 90HP motor. What sort of power can we get on a budget?

There's a whole theory on what you have to do to 760 to make it hit. Pulling out the sleeve and decking bottom of the cylinder etc. I was talking with a mate who has a stock Blaster 2 about this and he looks strangely at me as says take that B2 for a ride and then tell me it is all top end...