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You correct with pump tuning being the key. However all the reading in the world won't help much. Theory is great but as I've learned every ski is different. Even when built exactly the same. With out testing multiple nozzles and props it's hard to know whether or not it's actually correct. %...

Pump/ wear ring , driveshaft and a prop.

My buddy bought an enhancer about 6 weeks or so ago. Had the nice connectors but it was DOA. Whole new ebox and stator later we get a warrant replacement and it had the crappy connectors on it but it worked atleast

Dasa carbs and intake as mentioned before. Not sure what my prop is any more Phil tweaked it few times as we were dialing in the carbs and pipe and nozzles. Its really way too complicated but the results were worth it. And even if I knew what it was exactly it wouldn't matter. Every ski is...

Personally. The 4mil crank is the bees knees!! I had Tpe build me a 82mm bore 4mil motor And it's awesome. However I also added a dasa intake and carbs. Big power there too. I'm running a B pipe and charging system still and my dvx flips with ease. If I had to do it again I would have spent the...

Getting upside down isn't hard. Getting the rest of the way around is. Def. Will need trim. I have a -6 Rn with a rockered nose plus shorted and wide tray and I can nose fw flips in with a 701 61x with all the Bolton's and perfect tuning from Phil @ P&P. Flips off boat wakes easily but FW is...

I prefer to use the make your own CV boot clamp kits. They are super low profile and work very well. Down size is they are one time use only

You have any 155 cones left?

Cut the screw flush with the nut. Cut a slot in to to use a Flat blade screw driver to adjust it. And if you still need more room machine down the bpipe inlet( where it mounts to the manifold. That will lower the overall height as well.

your ada head is on backwards. Im the outlets are always supposed to be on the carb side. Also it would help to know what ski it is, if you only need a few millimeters then grinding the hood may be the easiest option.

Thats my same setup and i need a 11/17 in a 144 mag . It will be overproped with a 148 but it might work with a good bit of tuning

I run them on my b pipe. Works great and they are full stainless so no worry of corrosion or vibrating loose

Yeah Phil is the best on the east coast for sure. Plus it helps he is in Richmond VA which is damn close to the center of the east coast. Hit him up @Philip Clemmons

Thats 100% possible to get that much of an increase with tuning. Your statement may actually me more accurate than sarcasm. If that was the first 1400 and before it was tuned you can almost bet they were way off. Noone had ever had a similar motor setup to base things off of. so you have to...

cutting the rear makes 10x more difference than the rocker. However, the nose rocker is a very good improvement. But do both if you really want to love your ski.

id like to ride it again after you widen the front, I thought it rode fairly well in Daytona aside from a few quirks. Still need to order that steering for my SJ.

yeah, I dunno, ive seen them tear on the DVXs before, but after a whole summer mine is still perfect. only missed a few times though.

I have the same footholds as you do. I think they shortened them up a bit. BT the enclosure and wedge are all turf and padding.

Also as long as your putting padding down don't worry about getting all the remnants off. The padding will stick to the old glue

The silver one posted at the top of this page and the previous page. I finally finished my SJ and like riding it better than the BOB. It's close to the same weight