Yea I watched a couple Youtube videos of guys doing this. Personally that's not how i would go about it but its interesting nonetheless.
I do have a Vintage Ammco hone at work but it needs new stones and a repair to the U-Joint. I played around with the Lisle 15000 this weekend on a seadoo...
So that shiny spot one the left was just oil. I'm honestly not sure if its soot underneath or not. It didn't come off with brake cleaner and the other piston which I put in the ultrasonic cleaner looks about the same. It could have been running on the lean side though, especially if it was...
Well I can't say that I have ever bored and engine block before it can't be that much harder than machining a 1.625" bore all the way thru a 14" aluminum rod while holding a 0.0005" tolerance. lol To be fair that was on a lathe so not the same thing I know, but damn was it a pain in the ass...
I think your probably right!
So when I first set up this motor I had 2 1/2" lines coming in. One going directly to the manifold and the second I split into 2 3/8 lines with one going to the 2nd fitting on the manifold and the other the pipe and then out a 3/8 pisser. Then I had 2 1/2" lines...
Per XScream the piston to wall clearance should be 0.005" - 0.007 and the rings should be gapped to 0.030" - 0.033". Not what i was expecting but i am certainly relieved to hear im still in spec.
I was also told I should shoot for around 110deg F at the base of the cylinder front and back...
I have been looking for a used sunken hone as that would be ideal since I can get the double stone inserts. But I was also considering the Lisle 15000. What are our thoughts on that one?
So here are the measurements I got.
Fwd Piston Skirt Diameter: 3.6392"
Aft Piston Skirt Diameter: 3.6385"
Here are the bore measurements. FYI: The. first # is line with the exhaust port (Port -Stbd) and the second # is 90 deg from there (Fwd - AFT)
Fwd Bore:
Top 3/8" below deck: 3.6448" and...
I had the same thought, it looked like the rings were catching just a little bit. The chamfers seem pretty small to me and I was considering touching them up just a bit to try and smooth out the transition. Granted I don't have a lot to compare them to. Mainly the giant ones that come from the...
Yea so the 130 was just with the little temperature stickers on the top of the head and on the side of the cylinder. Where I came up with that number I honestly don't remember exactly but I want to say that's where my SJ used to run and that's about the point when it becomes uncomfortable to...
First thanks for the legit reply, I really appreciate it!
I'm gna start towards the end first. When I got the motor it was brand new and to my knowledge all the machine work was done by XScream. While I didn't buy it directly from XScream i did get it from a very reputable east coast hull...
Yea that's what i was afraid of. There isn't anything i am able to catch a nail on but i also cant see the crosshatch anymore in a few spots. Also I honestly don't think i have thrown a lot of water down the carbs as i was pretty easy on it last year since this was my first real motor and i was...
Oh yea if you do get an XFR or any Rickter thats not a competition hull you might want to drill a small hole in the back of the ski and pressure test the tray before you put it in the water, then just put a small stainless screw in the hole. Mine ended up having a bunch of leaks into the tray...
Hey dude.
I ultimately decided to go with a full carbon XFR and I love it! As far as the hull goes the only things I would have done differently is I wish I had gone with Textreme instead of the standard carbon. And I am a little unhappy with how the custom colors came out, well the orange any...
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