The problem is that I think he sold his old shaft so he had no way of checking Spline engagement. My suggestion is to mount up the pump without a driveshaft be sure to include all seals and spacers and wear rings. Measure with a wooden dowel welding rod or other straight rod from the inside of...
Hah. The seadoo folks would go nuts. Aiden I would run a 6/12 or 5/11 with that motor in one of my pumps. Shorter will help you feel like you have a lot of power off idle. We can always pitch up a little if we need to.
What ignition are you running? I'm assuming stock? My old analog totalloss would kill battery's because it had no start retard and I was running 32* of timing.
Plastic liner is way cheaper. Plus it's only like 30$ to replace down the road. They last a long time without abuse. If there is any slight misalignment or imperfections the edges of the prop won't be damaged.
Check on the ring being swollen. If that's not it and you can't figure it out send it back to me and I'll remake it if I have to. But let's hope it doesn't come to that. [emoji106]
I don't see the shafts bend down at the prop. That is the thickest and most supported a part of the shaft with the bearings being so close there. If it's just barely touching mark that spot on the wear ring and use a flap disc to clearance it just a bit.
What's your compression. I ran the same set up. I think the 10-16 will get you in The power faster but the 760 is going to pull harder mid and top. If it's a stock head you could remove the base gasket and Yamaha bond the cases to the cylinder. That would drop the port timing .030 or so...
I always told myself I would never spend money on another enhancer. This just backs up my decision. I'm curious to see/try the new advent for the superjet. Has a new billet cdi case that is serviceable. My total loss is working so I'm good for a while.
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