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Stock is 700.8CCs and with your oversize pistons it would be 705.1CCs which is not much more than stock displacement. Here's an easy engine displacement calculator: http://www.bgsoflex.com/displacement.html

The pistons are stamped 25 on top so that would mean you have a 0.25mm oversize from the 63M 1100 stock bore size which would be 81.25mm.

I have a 2000 GP1200R 66V stator assembly in stock and just noticed you have a 1999 GP1200 65U which are quite different. I do have the 65U lightened flywheels in stock for $125 outright but if you need an early stator coil I would check on eBay or the green hulk for sale section.

The voltage regulator is inside the e-box and wouldn't be non-spark issue if the battery has sufficient voltage. If you need a front cover stator & crank sensor assembly in excellent condition; I have one for $120 shipped.

It could just be the crank trigger pick-up sensor. I would download the service manual here: http://www.x-h2o.com/threads/74013-Service-Manuals-–-Parts-Catalogs-–-Owners-Guides-–-Wiring-Diagrams-–-Software-etc&highlight= and start doing some electrical checks.

What impeller and pitch are you using?

I would taper bore the nozzle and use the stock cone for a noticeable difference.

Or your fuel tank vent valve may be installed backwards. The blue line needs to allow air into the tank and not out.

You need a couple goats and a manatee to mow that grass down.

I've had some bad luck in the past with the iridium tips breaking off on those BR8EIX spark plugs. They weld that 0.6mm iridium electrode on the end and it even says not to gap them on the box. They were mainly design to last in 4-stroke engines for high mileage applications and are not suited...

Yamaha oem part number 62T-14251-10-00

Ten bucks is a good deal because the OEM part 62T-51348-00-00 sells for over twenty. If you were to use a stainless washer your pump seals won't be shielded from debris well. I would use the oem prop washer with a shim spacer in whatever thickness is needed to clearance the impeller blades...

You must be using the wrong Philips screwdriver size tip to remove them?

20mm I.D. 42mm O.D. 2mm metal thickness 6mm rubber thickness.

I've never seen the e-box stainless screws strip it usually the plastic covers.

I would just clearance dent the fuel tank using a heat gun before modifying the exhaust diffuser coupler section.

If you have a 61X cylinder using the stock stroke crank with the oem type pistons there's only two options for the best performance and the would be my custom made NW 61X big bore sleeves or the Jet-Blue NW sleeves in my opinion.

Motion Pro makes a good tool but personally I'd use the Mikuni T adjusters so they can be rotated with your fingers, also it's easier to see the screw position with these installed.

I would just use a bead of hard rubber type silicone around the reduction nozzle - pump stator flange area and let it dry overnight.