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The basic reduction nozzle rules are; the larger the nozzle exit diameter, the greater the volume of water you can move. This is great for a freestyle bottom end and hole shots but the problem is that sometimes you do not have the proper exit velocity for top speed. The smaller the nozzle exit...

If the tsunami hit the Yamaha factory we could have brand new superjets washed ashore.

If you want to leak check it just stand the jet-ski on its nose then duct tape over the pump intake area and fill the pump up with water. If you have a leak the water level will drop and it should be easy to spot. You can also use a bright flashlight and shine it inside the pump to spot larger...

That's why most people prefer the stainless wear rings because you won't have to carve them out with the impeller to make it work.

I guess painting the tractor with your logo takes the place of a gold shovel. You'll have to post some more pics when it's completed.

I have the Kawasaki 1100 lightened charging flywheels and total loss versions in stock that can be purchased outright. If you need to contact me about machine work and your PMs are not working; this is my temporary e-mail address: >>> nospam@tampabay.rr.com <<< Please be sure to...

Don't throw it out, you can send it to me and I'll use the ring gear & magnets for something else. :smile:

I would replace the flywheel and check the crank snout for any damage to the taper surface or keyway area. Then use some red loctite on the bolt and torque it tighter around 60ft lbs to be safe.

I've seen people run the longer plugs with the stock heads but wouldn't recommend as it would alter the squish velocity under the dome. X2 on the NGK BR8HS-SOLID plugs for a stock milled head.

X5... As the saying goes; Once you go black you'll never go back. :afro:

Congrats on the find. I'd press charges on the craigslist seller thief and sue him time lost of your ski.

If you need to contact me about sponsons or machine work and your PMs are not working; this is my temporary e-mail address: >>> nospam@tampabay.rr.com <<< Please be sure to include where you're located and what web site your are from with a user name in the e-mail.

That could be the problem you're running a 62T CDI with a 61X stator and flywheel combo which doesn't have enough AC voltage from the charging coil to operate the ignition unit. The 62T stator has a larger charge coil which puts out almost twice the voltage of the 6M6 or 61X to power the CDI...

Are you running the stock 61X CDI with the overheat sensor disconnected?

How do the plugs look? If it sounds like it is hitting the rev limiter and won't rev past mid range you might have a short in your secondary ignition circuit meaning your high tension leads are grounding out somewhere. I'd replace the spark plugs and ignition coil & ends first and work...

If you're going to use a thermal bypass valve you may want to install a filter screen upstream because they will clog easy with debris since it's a restriction point. I would start with 130F for the engine temp and 145F for the pipe because anytime hotter would cause burns going overboard. Also...

If it's an intermittent problem I would replace the solenoid relay because they go bad quite frequently and tighten all your cable connections.

If you want to replace all those corroded connections; I have all the oem terminals + boots, dielectric grease and ground eyelets in stock.

Maybe it has something to do with the color? I prefer the older Jet-Pilot shoes with the flat bottom and don't like wrestling shoes because they have rounded soles. I'd say use whatever you feel is comfortable in your footholds or tray because it's all a matter of personal preference that...

Home Depot online $36.50 http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=202047834&storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&PID=1319015&cm_mmc=CJ%2d%5f%2d1319015%2d%5f%2d10368321&cpncode=27%2d117946656%2d2&AID=10368321&cj=true&srccode=cii%5f13736960