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Also take note that your pistons have been washed clean. You ski was either running super rich or you had a water leak. If it was a water leak, this could also contribute to a bearing failure. As Matt stated, that is a lot of run time on an engine.

Shonuf has a video on pwctoday showing the difference between the power spray and stock waterbox. This video was posted a while back though

Rode a sxr Group K big bore a few years ago. I believe it was impros boat. Great power and reliable.

The one that is stripped out can be retapped one side larger. Might as well do both to make them the same. The broken bolts need to be drilled out or removed with an easy out. Then clean threads with appropriate tap.

A long shot idea but maybe the pressure in the tank is building while sitting and pushing fuel through your carbs. Try removing you gas cap between rides. I think tank check valves also serve as pressure relief valves.

I think you set the record for the most build threads in a 6 month span. I was in the same situation with my single shorelander trailer. I cut it down the middle and widened it to accommodate a standup and now a superchicken.

TBM intakes are rare to find used. Took me a few months the last time I needed one. Balsam Kommander is a top notch company. Steve Webster always takes care of things. Give them a call!!

Kawasaki Sport Cruiser "Super Chicken". Best bench seat on the water

http://impros.com/store/index.php/parts-accessories/solas-sla009-yamaha-kawasaki-aluminum-impeller-seal.html

I believe I am running 82.5 on my pilots. I would definitely get you a tach for tuning.

A lot of the time it is just carbon buildup from your exhaust making it out of the tailpipe. Clean out your exhaust and waterbox the best that you can and it will probably go away.

It needs more cow bell!!!

I am happy with my Trinity footholds

The real question is do you want to keep your Kawi engine and hardware? If this is the case, you choices diminish quickly.

Yes, you will need to fill in some voids

2004 and up models, the temp sensor must remain plugged in...

That is your ambient temp sensor. It will control the timing based upon the air temperature in the hull. That is the connector that gets jumpered with the wetpipe install to advance timing.

Looks like a nice racing hood. Is that the air intake pointing forward? If so not so nice for rec or freestyle. It would make a nice water scoop when stabbing, etc.

Yes, you will need a total of 4 gaskets when changing the carbs. I have reused mine for multiple carb removals. Gasket is not needed on the FA for the junction is above the carb inlet.

I used a sanding flap wheel. Took me about 20min to remove all glue! Cuts through it no problem