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Thanks. I think I’m further back than you..using internal fill

I pulled the pump again. Now I’m not so sure what the problem is.. Silicone was evenly distributed on seal and shoe for most part. Shouldn’t Be letting anything get by..someone I trust said prop is too low but it seemed like more than that..

Gonna try that. Unfortunately fx1 has tapered bushings in front tabs that fit into countersunk holes in pump tunnel instead of locating pins like a superjet..Was hard to get everything drilled right. Will grind the bushings smaller so they have some play..

Here’s a pic of rails

What Tomski said..doesn’t change the way it rides. I always have ran them..normally I would say it won’t come off easy but by how crappy the glasswork looks it might not be glued down well. If he did it right it’s ground down underneath so it will bond correctly.

the boy getting the feel for it this morning..siliconing the pump seal helped the cavitation some so obviously I didn’t get pump tight enough when I set inserts..kind of a bummer. More concerning is that the tray took on about a half gallon of water in half a tank of riding. Bulkhead is sealed...

You could sell the total loss for more than you could buy a clean stock ignition for..I can tell you that would be a headache just from looking at it..obviously no attention to detail went into the install (no offense to seller) when you are learning you want to push the button and ride. Not...

The guy I bought it from made the rails both wider and deeper. Think it was a mold of a fx based hull tom21 made..he cut the vertical part of the old rails off and glassed new ones over what was left..I’ll take some better pics of the side you can get a better idea.

Forgot to plug in one of the stator wires haha He said it felt more stable but turned better but we only tested it for a bit..I’m afraid maybe I didn’t get pump pushed up tight enough against shoe when I set the pump inserts. Looked fine but cavitated more than it should have. I sealed it...

Handles good. Way more cavitation then I’d hoped..don’t remember what they are like for a baseline though.. Has solas 17/23 cutback 2mm and it really spins up after a slide or low speed turn..going to try siliconing pump seal and see if that helps. If not it’s getting a Kawi pump. Hopefully I...

Ready for water test. Came out decent for rushing everything but glass work. Butchered the side on the turf job so had to copy it on the second side. If I’d actually waiting for paint to cure before flipping it over and working on it would have been pretty good. Will get the job done though

Would definitely want to take the engine out and reroute all the wiring and put a stock ignition in it but that would teach you how to work on it and has all the parts you would want. Would prob want a pole spring also

Helps when you plug in the brown/white wire for the stator..fired right up

I have an extra cdi I’ll swap if the stator checks out

Trying to diagnose no spark on a ski im building out of old random parts. Think I can eliminate start/stops as I tried 2 and same issue (also switched the plugs start button is bad on one, I run them reversed anyways with no idle) Stator should be ok as it came out of a ski that sunk so I’m...

Well..instead of finishing up the turf this morning I’m trying to diagnose no spark issue. Eliminated the start stop..hoping I don’t have to pull motor..pain with the stock pipe and sj tank..

I saw one with some graphics and it wasn’t terrible. I think it’s better than the Kawi which isn’t saying much. Could have just kept the front similar to a round nose and it would have looked pretty cool.

Are you guys grinding the underside of the hood seal in front? Tank fits but it's super tight..cant get turf in between..dont want it to rub through tank..I am using turf for a tank pad..maybe can grind that down a little but looks like it's still going to rub

Or just run it....unless it's all the way through it doesn't matter

@tomski