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I agree with keeping it simple. Goes without saying but take your time assembling that motor. Check the crank for deflection and bad bearings. Get new oem seals and apply grease to the lips. Check your ring gap. Don't have any machine work done by locals. Send to a jet ski specific shop...

If you have time to prime it and fully block it down the result will be a lot more slick. If the existing surface is really good just sealer will look awesome. Or use both

I agree with arsenal, it really depends on the mix ratios for each component and what quantities your supplier sells. If it's 4:1 primer or clear for example, a gallon may be a wise choice. Better to have extra than run out.

Jetmaniac has the midshaft spline tool in stock, that's what I use. Works awesome. Also the proper coupler "shamrock" tool is nice to have.

When I had the broke reed it would not run unless you smothered the carbs and then it would run for one second then die. Just saying. (A petal had completely broke off) I agree it's probably another issue at play such as water in cases.

I meant crank case pressure test not compression (that should be around 150). Crankcase should hold about 8 psi. About 10 minutes to be sure.

Fuel and spark yet it still doesn't run, that happened once to me and it ended up being a broken reed. (causes were totally different than what you're describing) Also can be caused by vacuum leak on intake side. That happened on my brothers' wave raider. Poop wouldn't run then they pulled...

B pipes are kind of a pain to get the chamber wedged in place, I agree. Dry pipes the alignments of everything are critical, just more of a detail oriented installer's job I would say.

Nah just bought it individually. Although I use their fuel pressure/vacuum gauge as well and it's a solid work horse. Should mention I have not tried the Actron light on a 2 stroke

I use an Actron dial back timing light, mostly use that on old cars though. Never had a problem with it.

Wet pipe= non water jacketed expansion chamber, typically 3 parts manifold, headpipe, chamber. Sprays water constantly thru ports in headpipe. Typically more low to mid powerband hit Dry pipe: fully waterjacketed chamber (heavy!), chamber and manifold only, constant water spray only at...

There was/is a low tension return spring sold by hot products.

If I had the shop space, the time, and the money for materials plus a spare superjet hull(s) I would try something like this. Rius used to have a plus 2 or 4 carbon hull. Had a 900cc dasa in it. it's in ty McFarland's collection now

N. Carolina

Yeah I don't know exactly what brand it is, no markings on it. It's on the heavy side, appears to be regular polyester layup fiberglass. Still about 5-7lbs less than stock. Great looking design

Not sure which ski he's gonna set this one on. If anyone needs a hood, handlepole etc painted send it to me and ill get it done right. Pm me for pricing, very affordable rates. Trying to get a lil side Hussle going to help cover racing expenses etc. Also have direct access to an amazing...

Bet most of you haven't seen one of these before. I believe this is an old r&d race hood from the 90s, it came off of an old Tim judge superstock round nose. I recently painted this for legdragger64.

When I watched the pro watercross championships on CBS sports they talked about the rider who won sport gp, he sectioned 4 hulls into one or something crazy like that

I would probably mold the insert then quick epoxy it in place (like a tack weld) just to hold it until a nice bead of six 10 can be applied across the Seam. Then come back and fully reinforce with epoxy soaked cloth. Just my 2ct

I have even used a tiny hammer and screw driver to straighten the bad edges before removal. Just be real careful to not mess up the carb body.