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once its all clean and out.. a clean and hallow tray is piece of mind and a blank canvas to start n. yes sir pink/green EPS foam and some hull drains will finish that out quite well. make sure you slather some 5200 adhesive around all the tubing and dshaft tube to the pump tunnel

^ in a nutshell you attempt to manipulate your popoff setting..don't worry about it. its really just a fancy paper weight !! ^

just get in there and get it out of the way. its nasty and it sucks but your making the right choice not to delay the inevitable any longer. your next ride will be more rewarding knowing you checked that off the list and not have to think about it again and again. not to mention make more work...

For what it's worth, I just looked into a wetjet 46 setup. It has 4 holes. This is going on a ported 735 maniac/blue 61x top end kit. Yes, that is a SBT rebuild kit. I found them to work well. However, I don't use the needle arms or pins. I find most have too much slop in them causing tuning...

i bought one of those years ago off ebay for my kawi setup. it was very finicky and never made anything easier given the location and lack of ability to see and make the adjustments. it was a neat idea but I found it much more worth while to pull the carb. make the popoff/jetting changes and...

the old glass is dried out and acetone is not going to hurt anything. you can go with a paint thinner or aerosol prep spray or similar. but a key step is to have a clean surface for the new epoxy resin to stick to. and the acetone will evaporate anyway. just let it breathe a few minutes and then...

http://www.pwctoday.com/showthread.php?t=372274

Stock Octane ( Polaris 777 ) don't typically react well to high compression. They tend to ping due to excessive detonation. Randy from Watcon expressed this many a times back when he was in the Polaris game. Hampshire, a sled cylinder will not just bolt and go. Alex above can weigh in on this...

If youre looking to find most all hardware on the superjet drivetrains the McMaster list is here http://www.x-h2o.com/index.php?threads/the-official-mcmaster-carr-part-number-list.31581/page-2

Dry pipe, Total Loss ignition, water injection, matched aftermarket carbs.. sled cylinders.. That will get you there quick fast and in a hurry... but start simple like a straight and clean impeller ( alex..) then better ignition curve and better carbs.. ^^WOT is easy on a octane! bend you...

Nice novis! are you running aftermarket manifolds or adapter plates? what ride plate is that? doesn't appear to be stock..?

Pretty Vague. But. you get the idea.. grind it down. run some glass strips down the length of the large long crack in your case.. then make up the thickened resin that wont sag or run ( peanut butter consistency ) then after drying you can sand it down to match the chines and rest of hull shape

Grind down the damaged areas, it may become a little thin as far as what is left intact. not to worry you can build it back up with glass and some mixed cabosil/peanut butter like resin. as stated before. grind slightly past where the cracks end and you can drill a small hole at the ends of the...

James/eastcoastjumper, what needle and seat where you using in your wetjet setup? I just acquired one for my maniac/blue ported 61x setup...I also got a set of pro35 boyesens thanks to Quinc

Neither one came on the octanes ,the octane chamber is slightly longer than a mod but shorter than a limited. I has a flat plate welded inside the taper near the stinger cone. And the stinger is modified with a larger outlet sleeve to spray water into the exhaust stream, not down into the pipe...

Hey KC...No homo stalker over here.. I have used your tray pics as reference in my fx1 tray dilemma as well. Carry on Ken, we all sit back and await your skunkworks fx1 hack lab over on pwctoday. keep us informed brotha!

@kcmasterpiece Ken could chime in on this as he has on the other site about the tray being a wide open dance floor with a fixed hold on the rear like a RRP or B.O.B style. ill try to dig up a pic to get you creative juices flowing.. ^^This pic was the first go around with the tray^^ The...

A body saw is all you need to cut the perimeter of the liner. It will come out. Cut the glue in between the glass hood sides and the black plastic liner. And then inside scuff up the glass and lay down a layer of 1708 Biax or 1208 is ok too. You can go all out and cut the top open and remove the...