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The type 9 dry pipe is really nice for bottom end hit, but a ported cylinder is a must. Water injection makes it even better. Lot's of compression, advance, and a ported cylinder makes the dry pipe a happy pipe for bottom end and top end.

Do yourself a favour and take those filters out all together. Just run a fuel filter inline with the fuel feed to the carb. It's easier to see/clean and doesn't take as much junk to block it. I also find that the internal carb filters tend to hold a bit of water whereas the inline filters...

I think Michael needs to use his elite composition skills to put together a carb tuning guide for the tech section...

They do look lean, yes, but plugs can take a while to color up depending on how new they are and the oil/fuel mix you are using. You need to approach this the way Mikuni reccommends because it works. If you don't tune in the right order, you'll find that you'll be chasing your tail trying to...

Yeah, check/clean your carbs. This should be the first point of service in any problem that isn't clear. Check for water inside the flywheel cover, and also check for water in your electrical box. Water in the gas tank? Clogged filters? Low compression?

Undo the screws and spray some carb cleaner down the holes. Let it soak and repeat. Put 2 of your adjuster screws back in and seat them while leaving the other one out. Block one of the water in/out fittings and blow into the other one. If all is good, you should be able to pass some air...

How well is your ski tuned? Judging on what you've said above, I'm willing to bet that you're running rich. I've stepped onto mates ski's that they thought were running really well, but vibrated badly. A bit of a tweak of the low speed adjuster sorted them out. This may not be the case...

I've found when using epoxy resin (West Systems) that if you give it too much heat initially, it goes soft and rubbery, and never really cures properly.. I'm sure you've done plenty like this before, but it might be something to be aware of if your cure times seeming to be going up.

Well, I will step in here and say STAY AWAY FROM THE ADVENT. They have had thier problems in the past, and they are still having them. I've recently been through 4 of them, and all of them have had the hard starting problem which will eventually kill your starter and bendix. I'm trying...

Yep, I'd have to agree here. I don't really see the point in running a bar mounted switch. The pumps draw bugger all power, so it's not like they are going to flatten your battery. Even though they are bar mounted, they are not that aesthetically pleasing, and they are still tough to push if...

Hood tricks are what builds the foundations for confident surf riding. I like to have fun on flat water as well as the surf, so I say well done. It's always nice to finally nail a trick when you've been trying for ages.

Using TURF (not HT's actual hood seal) works really well. Just lay a strip of 5 mm rubber around the seal lip and then glue some turf on top of it. It will push a nice groove into it and stop the hood from moving around. It also aloows the hood catch to be pulled down tight without any slop.

One thing you can do, is put your ski against a dock, and do a 3/4 throttle run for 20 seconds, or less if the note of the engine changes enough to notice. Check your plugs....if they are white annd powdery, it's lean as.... If not, go for a WOT 20 second run, or rather, work your way up...

Even if it doesn't work, good on them for having a crack. When it comes to Superjets, we really don't have that many options...I'd give it a crack I reckon.

Deka has been the best brand I have used... The model number you should go for is ETX-16L. They are smaller than the standard battery, but come with a spacer so it sits them higher in the battery box so everything sits nice and tight. I've never had a problem with 3 seasons on mine, and...

No actually... It was one of the Blowsion straight newer style ones. Reasonably smooth all around. I think when my shoe lace pulled WOT, the motion of it dragging me round and round caused the fully open/sharp part to rip into my foot. Just ones of those things I guess!

Yeah, its a bit nasty, but healing well. It's strange not having any feeling in it at all. Usually stitches get a bit stingy/itchy, but I can poke at this and not feel a thing. It's like I'm touching someone else's foot! Yeah, it was actually the throttle leaver that did the damage. I'm...

Well, I'm doing a trick I've done a thousand times before. I don't tknow what it's called, but basically you spin around on the hood and stand up while the pole and ride backwards. Anyway, I've just got my new setup dialled in perfectly, so when I spin around, stand up and gas it a...

I reckon you're right here but unless you are using high end carbs (46mm+ Full specs or Novi's) I don't think it would really matter that much. Changes definately need to be made to popoff when going back to the stock dual f/a though.

This might give you a bit of an idea anyway...