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Go on eBay and type in firemist cobalt blue. In person, the color is so much better!

Single stage paint: paint mixed with reducer and sprayed. Cured paint is your final product. Two stage: base color mixed with reducer and sprayed. Clear coat mixed with reducer and sprayed over cured base coat.... If your applying clear over single stage, it's not single stage anymore

Single stage here Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Great, that's the response I was looking for! Did it give ya that right off The bottem snap?

Have a sn with a 6m6/61x with dual 38's, protec head, and protec or psi pipe and manifold. ( it's the big over the top pipe that takes up the whole left side of the engine bay) and msd enhancer. Currently the ski rips and hits pretty hard just a little off the bottom. Looking for some more...

If you got a stock rn pole, you can chop and chop until you hit your sweet spot... Maybe duct tape a bar or pipe on the pole where you think you might want the bars to be after shortenening just to get the initial feel of where to start with the shortening. You'll get used to it just like you...

One foot forward and one back in the tray helped a lot as well compared to both feet at back... Hope this helps Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

On my sn I broke the stock pole. Got a rn pole off here and when lined up with pivot holes, the rn pole is 9-10" shorter that a stock sn pole. The measurement I used for reference was from pivot to handlebar grip. Thought it was going to be way short for sure but once riding I got used to it and...

If it were me; ask the dealer if there will be warranty issues if you use non yamaha oil. ( technically there shouldn't be as long as your using an oil that has the same or better specs for that engine. This is always a debate, but a little research will point you in the right direction. I've...

Thanks!

Wondering if anybody has ever attempted to layer turf on the sidewalls in the tray in an attempt to build out the sides just enough for a little extra grip. Possibly a strip or two under the final layer of turf to give your feet/shoes something to grip onto, or will it just rip off? Sent from...

Te heat sensor will put the motor in limp mode and make it run bad ( in an effort to save the motor) and you accomplished this by twisting the wires together. All that sensor is, is a thermocouple. Either on or off and when in the on position, it's the same as twisting the wires together. Your...

It's stamped 6m6 on the bottom and on top of The cases. The dual intake manifold is from protec Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No pics right now, But the case is stamped 6m6 and is silverish blue. Didn't see any markings on the topend but it's a dark blue/green color with no metallic in it. When I get home I can try to take a pic. I know I bought a 701 flame arrestor for dual carbs and the spacing is too far apart for...

I bought a sn a few months ago with a 6m6 bottom end and what I believe to be a 61x top end. Has protec head, psi ex manifold and pipe. Msd enhancer. running a dual carb setup with I believe 38's. And some intake manifold that I'm unsure of. Prop is stainless 12.8/14.5 I believe when I had it...

In the midwest (Wisconsin) I see 650 kawi's that need alot of work and sometimes "run good" for $800 and up... 650 superjets stock with normal wear and tear for $1700 and 701 superjets with few minor mods and decent body shape for $2000 and up. These are square nose FYI. Hope this helps a...

I have a sn with the above motor and dual carbs. Bought the 701 dual carb flame arrestor and the holes are too far apart. What are my options for running a stock type flame arrestor? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Also as stated above your condition could be from not a whole lot of full throttle use and the fact that these float-less carbs are tuned for a compromise at best across the enitre fuel circuit, couple that with generally warm weather riding and the fact that I tend to believe these carbs are...

Black/oily wet is usually from oil fouling, not fuel. The reason there are shiny areas on the piston in the above pictures is because the fuel cleans the carbon off, hence the reason why the one that is said to be jetted too rich, is the cleanest. If you look at the plug end, the metal ring...

Ideal jetting and piston wash would be black top pistons with knife edged tear drop shape clean (shinny) areas by the transfer ports that extend about 3/8 in towards the middle of the piston with plugs that are dry and cardboard to chocolate colored brown Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk