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With Michigan Summer's so short, I decided to deal with it until the weather turns cold or until something breaks. I'll update the thread once I tear it apart.

Are you sure you have the cooling lines routed properly? What about sand or other obstructions in your lines?

Definitely not right. You must fix this leak or it will always drain fuel back into the tank and/or create air in your lines. This is why you have to crank the snot out of it to get it stated. You mention a primer. Doesn't it fire right up with a squirt of fresh fuel?

Your jetting is the same as mine with a similar set-up. However, what made you richen it up? Increasing compression doesn't require you to re-jet. Have you verified compression since the rebuild to be sure your rings are seated and all is well?

THE VIBRATION IS BACK. I mostly ride lakes where there is little to no "No Wake" zones, so I hardly ever ride the ski in the RPM range where the vibration occurs. This past weekend, I was in a mile long no wake zone heading out to Lake Michigan. The vibration was really bad. It occurs just...

When you try to restart it, does it feel like it its flooded or starved? This would help diagnose. You may be dribbling fuel past the needle/seat after it is shut off causing it to flood out which would require excess cranking to get it going again. If it is starved, you may have to crank it...

Sorry man, I'm not your guy for electrical and the stator. I've own numerous jetskis and plenty of other two-strokes and never had to mess with a faulty Stator. I guess i'm fortunate. However, they are pretty robust if you don't mess with them. I have a Clymer manual kicking around somewhere...

Difficult to point out one thing as your cause without looking everything over. You really should have done a leak down test before tearing it apart. If it is your crank seals, you either have to replace them now or risk putting everything back together to do a leak down test and potentially...

My bad on the Starter / Stator thing. I can't help with what the readings should be on the Stator or why its draining your battery. Regarding the rev limiter, you don't need it and the previous owner bypassed it and plugged the fuel line going back tot he carb. The idea is, if your revs...

Ditto what "durhamgoat" said. Leak down test is a must. Pic one: looks to be the disconnected rev limiter circuit in ebox Pic two: Is the rev limiter Pic three: 38 SBN carb Regarding starter. easy to diagnose if it is a starter or stater relay problem. Assuming battery is good and your...

Is everything stock? Take a photo and we can help

Be sure all your fuel lines are routed properly and you have zip ties at all fittings so you know there are no leaks. ALSO CHECK: Tank breather and make sure its flowing in the right direction. Gas cap seal. Fuel tank inlet seal. Pulse line running from carb to crankcase. Even with...

Once you set-up your finger throttle the way you want it, you need to adjust the cable on the carb side.

In regards to the link I sent, the information can be used regardless of whether your ski is stock or modified. You have stated that your ski "bogs". Determining what type of "bog" is critical to how you go about solving the problem. As far as the which adjustment screw is what - see attached:

check this out, I found it pretty helpful. http://www.pwctoday.com/showthread.php?t=289786

I'd say so. Carb adjustment/jetting

Doesn't sound right. Do you have a bilge pump with auto switch?

Every time you turn it over, the carb. is pumping fuel. When it doesn't start, that fuel has to go somewhere. Some will go to the bottom of the crankcase and some will go out the exhaust. If your timing is off, you are trying to ignite the fuel when the piston is not at the proper position...

Buy a sheet and cut it yourself. Use the old material as a template or make a template of of heavy paper or whatever. The JS skis are so easy to turf - Hard to screw up. This is one I did on a budget many years ago. Before you could buy sheets of Hydroturf.