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any pics of the progress? ive never followed a build before but im real anxious to get a ride report. to me it looks like you can only ride it 50' from shore nose high all the time. like a purpose built backflip machine exclusively. im hoping im wrong and its a good freeride hull also. another...

great! i think i have all the info i need to pu the crank back in. looks like there are two seals in the rear and one on the front. im not sure how old those seals are. so ill probably get some more seals. do i need 3?

That's the one I got. The 1211 was more than twice as much.

there is two types of hondabond the high temp and hondabond 4. which one?

Is the coupler reverse thread? Or regular righty tighty?

Loctite doesn't stay pliable. It hardens like a hard candy

I guess I can start a new thread, but I don't want to seem incompetent. What's the best way to remove the coupler? Do I need to add heat?

thanks for the responses. 1211 it is.

I should have searched, but I didn't. getting a new crank this weekend. and going back together with the cases. ive done pretty much all sorts or engine rebuilding except put cases together. this is my first time doing this. what should I put in between the case halves when re assembling the...

short block should be cases, crank, cylinder, pistons and head long block should be all of the above plus exhaust and intake manifold and reeds and cages. sometime carbs sometimes complete pipe. sometimes coupler. electronics aren't usually included. but you just have to make certain whats...

yes. It was the rear cylinder. that explains the back fire. but the backfire was intermittent. when I go back together with it all, I'm going to install my digital MSD TL. That with the new crank should get me back on the water. I'm just very curious as to why it was backfiring and only revving...

does anyone have a crank for sale?

here you can see the crosshatch from last bore that is relatively untouched. so the smooth sections are where the piston was exerting excessive force because of the bent rod. you can clearly see the uneven wear.

there's a possibility it could have bent when I was removing the wrist pin. I popped the circlip out and stuck a 12mm deep socket in on the other side. I used a rubber mallet and tapped the socket through the piston to drive the wrist pin out. but that's not very much force. ive done that a few...

hence the backfire from a different TDC. hence the lower when I stated that it didn't give me any problems, that's because I thought it was the MSD TL malfunctioning, not a bent rod. if it really was the rod giving me problems this whole time, then I misdiagnosed it and I bought an extra MSD...

WOW that's a lot of force. so a few questions arise here 1. is there any chance the engine would run properly with a rod like this? if not, then surely I must have bent it some how. 2. do you guys think a bent rod would cause the symptoms I described above? 3. where can I get it repaired...

I originally took the engine out because of a faulty MSD TL. Engine was revving out of water, but under a load it wouldn't rev and sometime would backfire. but get it on the trailer and the engine would rev fine like it normally does. so I took the engine out and bought a digital MSD TL. well...

That's the only thing i could think of, because it was rotating fine in the cylinder. No unusual scoring.ill post pic of the cylinder tomorrow. Seems like if it was bent before I disassembled it, it would show signs of unusual wear. That's the only way I can explain it getting bent, unless it...

I went to split my cases today and I turned my engine upside down to take the bedplates off. I didn't realize the weight of the engine was resting on the connecting rods. I think I bent the rear rod. if so, where is a good place to get the rod replaced? the first pic is of the straight rod...

what the heck are you doing in that 4th pic? very funny looking indeed!