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@OCD That place is sweet

Please post up a photo of your case mod if you have one.

Thanks for the info, So basically, if this cage is gone or starting to break up. The crank is no longer safe to run correct?

Does this mean that it is caused by lack of lubrication on the mag bearing?

It looks like the bearings will bind up when they hit each other from not being retained. My 66V crank has the same problem, and I'm scared to run it that way. If I didn't pull it apart to change crank seals, I would have never known. For all I know it's common and not a problem, but common...

That's what I thought. So when this cracks or disintegrates, it makes them unusable right?

That pitting was from the timing cover leaking. The inside of the motor is clean, and the bearings roll really smooth with no noise. What I want to know is why that ring in the mag bearing cracks. Does it happen to anyone else? I have 2 cranks that have good bearings and rods, but that cage is...

So I pulled this crank to rebuild a motor, and noticed that the "Mag Bearing cage"? Is cracked. This same thing happened to my 66V Crank, and in both cases the bearings are super smooth with no noise. What's going on that's making these fall apart?

Which length would better?

Chris, will the beefy throttle cable fit a B1?

Ok, I must have mixed it up with the Square pole.

I think the FX 1 poles were known to be weak. You probably should look for a replacement if possible.

Go pick up some quality epoxy resin and glass cloth to make your crack repairs. There are tons of threads on the glass work to get you started. If you can wrench then try to find a complete motor with electrical to drop in there. If not there are reputable and knowledgeable builders to buy...

Wow something was getting really comfortable in there

K&N all the way. Mine were at least 10 yrs old when I got them, and I've got 4yrs on them myself. I think the RIVA and R&D are similar to the K&N as well, because I have a few of those that are about 10yrs old, and they still look great.

I need a dual flush kit for 90* pissers. I'll take red if it's available. Thanks,

Yeah, thanks for the advice. That guy has to be more descriptive on his own thread. I still don't understand where the hard deposits are coming from. The domes and Pistons are untouched (luckily).

When we pulled those plugs we put new ones in and did a few chops. The NEW plugs were looking really white, and had hard deposits on the ground strap and plug base. It was only at 3 turns while trying to diagnose the deposits.

At this rate, you need all the help you can get!

Pistons and Domes look good. Not so sure where the deposits are coming from