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I've eliminated the rev limiter on a 62t cdi before. I'll work on yours, if you like. PM sent.

Your footholds are cheap fiberglass, so there's no need to worry about the strength of the fiber you use. I use biax, myself. A layer between the foothold and the tray when I rivet them in, then a couple more layers around the edge.

No, he blasted it so that he could weld it without getting all your dirty, sooty, oily crap in the welds. I certainly hope you do something nice to repay him. That's easily a $50+ job

There's a trailer in those pictures???

My blowsion valve leaked water into the foam, but otherwise worked properly.

I don't know how it was to be shipped, but US postal's Parcel Post service has a 7-10 day delivery time. It could still be in transit.

Not in a way that is legal.

Many hull builders do not have the education/training/resourses to develop a layup that meets the structural needs of a hull. A hull, unlike a F1 car wing, must hold it's shape AND withstand impacts (a variety, which would be difficult to reproduce in a test). Carbon is stronger than glass...

Stainless may not be the best choice of fastener for high stress areas on your trailer. It's not as strong as you may think.

Yep, Polyester resin. I use it for making some molds. but would never use it on a ski.

I have a 650 head cut to 81mm sitting on the shelf. Can't remember what cc it ended up being, though.

So which prop are you going to run? Maybe I should call dibs on the Dynafly if you don't want it.

Here's mine. Carbon XR-tech hull, polaris engine w/43's, custom pole.

Get a bigger budget. A Team Scream top end is about $3k alone, and then you'll need total loss @$500+, big carbs @$400+, prop @$1-300, trim kit, etc. etc. I hate to discourage you, but you need to have a better idea of what it takes to pull flatwater flips. On the other hand, your budget...

The fuel tank foam keeps fuel from sloshing around.

Thanks, Waternut. I like offering a product line made entirely in the USA, too. And did anyone notice how there were no pre-drilled or tapped holes for mounting?

What ski are you trying to backflip? A stock SN or RN hull will need a lot more than a 760 to backflip.

That's very nice. (I'm pretty laid back, so take that as a HUGE compliment) The well though out design work, and the execution are excellent. Just being able to adjust your hull length is nice, but add in adjustable footholds, toehold, AND tray layout makes this a true do it all ski. Flat deck...

Lee is the most experienced with the sj/b1 swap, by far. How many have you done now, 5? You deserve a sponsor deal. Now I need to figure out how to fund it.

The biggest reason the JD grate looks so funny is because it doesn't have 2 bars on the sides of the grate. The single "driveshaft shielding" bar leaves the chip looking out of place.