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There are VERY differing opinions on this. Some builders think it's hardly worth going past 6mm because of the reduction in case integrity. Others think it's not worth going LESS than 8mm. I believe a well setup 6mm will run as hard or harder than most longer stroke motors without having to thin...

I hadn't heard that, but I'm not surprised. All metals have gone through the roof in the last couple of years. Their batteries haven't had a price increase since the mid nineties so I guess it's probably overdue. I've got several coming up on their third season of use with nothing but total loss...

Hell yeah!:wink:

In case anyone is looking, I was just talking to Robert at Jetworks and he mentioned that they just got a couple of Ltd B Pipes. Probably won't have them very long. They seem to go pretty fast these days. www.jetworks.net 949 548 5259

No. The lip is on the wear ring.

It's not that critical. Just run it like everyone else and it'll be fine. I'm not even sure that there's any definitive evidence that it should be around 120F. The often recommended 120F needs to be at or right after WOT, not just riding. There's no way to quantify any of the parameters that...

That's why I use these. As long as you install the pill on the downstram side of the connection all you have to do is unplug the piece and wipe away the debris. For that very reason there's no way I would use a restrictor in the actual cooling line.

Yeah I saw it. That's what I thought you were talking about. I agree it's not that much of a hassle to deal with, but it is one more thing to watch and since he's talking about doing this to both incoming lines it seems to me to be a solution looking for a problem with his pipe config.

Me too. As a rule, I've usually been able to hear the difference in motor tone if the stinger suddenly dries up.

Strainers are ONLY good if you intend to actually check them frequently. Most builders recommend against them because planning to check them regularly is easier than actually doing it. The minute you stop looking you can easily overheat your motor. If one clogs from sand there is good reason...

Indeed!:fing02:

I concur that Dan would be VASTLY superior to GroupK. You should also talk to Art at Jetworks. He has done a lot with these too.

If paul gave you those specs, why don't you just run it the way he said? Why bother getting his or anyone else's specs if you're just gonna come on a public forum and get advice from a bunch of strangers, most of which can't tune their own boats?:rolleyes:

I'm not taking issue with you personally but, by continually posting things like this, you are bringing these threads to the top of the page as much as any of the winers. You have the option to just ignore any of these threads. I suspect if no one said anything in response to any of these...

I always have mine T/W. My builder believes in it, particularly in high HP motors. They're not heavily welded though. I know another really smart motor guy that doesn't believe in it and he does ok w/o doing it. I don't buy the theory that welding destroys the hardness of the pins. Careful...

You're right. Unless you have a problem with your steering almost all will (eventually) circle. Still not a real good reason not to run a lanyard. There are a few guys regularly doing tricks where the lanyard would be a problem, but most of us are just fine using one. Before it's over, we're...

If you have the timing advance plate you'll be able to see it when you take off the flywheel cover. The pickup will be mounted to a small aluminum plate instead of directly so that it's offset in the advanced direction. A lot of times you will see that you have a thicker green flywheel cover...

If Gil doesn't have one and you don't find one closer, let me know. I can throw one in UPS tomorrow for you. Send me a PM later if you need me to.

That's funny!:biggrin:

That's the truth!