- Location
- Asheville, NC
Anybody interested in a girdle head kit? 35cc domes. I'll post it up in the parts for sale.
1995 Yamaha Superjet Resto-Mod
- Thread starter brapperdoodle
- Start date
Big Kahuna
Administrator
- Location
- Tuscaloosa, AL
post a price for is in your parts for sale add.
- Location
- Asheville, NC
After trying to install the pump yesterday and running into a few issues, I’m having some trouble with my steering cable binding. It’s binding pretty badly and after spending over $2500 on a mag pump, the last thing I want to do is take an angle grinder to it... any ideas? 
Big Kahuna
Administrator
- Location
- Tuscaloosa, AL
Flip the center section 180 degrees.
- Location
- Western NY
or cant you just flip the ball on the steering nozzle
- Location
- Asheville, NC
That was actually the first thought that crossed my mind... No ill effects from doing this? It looks like the clamps might be harder to reach when installing...
- Location
- Asheville, NC
Duhhhh I didn’t even think of that... I have to remove the pump again today anyways so I’ll try that first and see if it makes a difference
hornedogg79
dodgin' bass boats
Flip the stator section. You have to pull the alignment pins. Use a straight edge on the mounting feet to align the wear ring and reduction nozzle when you put it back together.
Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk
Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk
It's hard to tell from the angle of the pictures but is the steering cable straight back from where it mounts to the hull to where it mounts to the steering nozzle, or angled upward?
The old style square nose steering nozzle has the little arm very low on the nozzle, and the little ball thing is mounted so the joint is above the arm. Newer 08+ nozzles have the steering arm more in the center of the nozzle, and the ball i smounted to point downward. Looks like you have a newer style nozzle with the arm more in the middle, with the ball mounted upward, which would cause an upward angle of the steering cable from hull mount to nozzle. So you'd want to do the flip thing.
But I can't tell from the angle of the pic.
- Location
- Asheville, NC
I did flip the ball and it solved the problem. I’m running a Pro-Tec steering nozzle and I was filling the service manual instructions, which is backwards from that nozzle. I am using the correct Pro-Tec adapter for using it without a trim system.
- Location
- Asheville, NC
So, I’m feeling the burn on this build. This is my first ski and I thought is was gonna be a breeze. HA! Reality check. Using the stock alignment pins for the pump, I managed to almost completely pull the threads out of half the front pump inserts. I removed my pump, cleaned everything out thoroughly, and checked the threads. They will hold torque up to 18 foot pounds but I decided not to push it. Spec is 24 foot pounds and the rear 2 are fine and will hold 24. Honestly it was those damn alignment pins. I eventually took them out making my life much easier. However the damage was done. I had my pump aligned almost perfectly using the Cold Fusion alignment tool, but I had some side to side clearance issues. I took a dremel and opened up the holes for the mounting a bit and it seemed to help but it’s had to try and align the pump and tighten the bolts by yourself. Plus flipping the ski trying to check alignment all without scratching my fancy new paint job ha. I just want to ride!
- Location
- Asheville, NC
I haven’t come to a conclusion yet about the pump driveshaft being bent. Some say to run it, others warn not to do it.
While I’m making a decision, I decided to go ahead and build up my e-box and wrap some wires. Still waiting on my Purple heat shrink to arrive for the rest. But it’s looking pretty tidy! I filled all of the connections with dielectric grease, and even disassembled my new starter switch in order to apply dielectric grease onto the contacts. No use waiting until they’re already corroding right?
While I’m making a decision, I decided to go ahead and build up my e-box and wrap some wires. Still waiting on my Purple heat shrink to arrive for the rest. But it’s looking pretty tidy! I filled all of the connections with dielectric grease, and even disassembled my new starter switch in order to apply dielectric grease onto the contacts. No use waiting until they’re already corroding right?
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- Location
- Midland, Ontario, Canada
Love fresh new parts, that ebox looks great....what brand is it?
- Location
- Asheville, NC
It is a Cold Fusion electrical box. Custom painted by myself ha. Black is too boring for me and when I can’t get Purple anodizing, I get Black and splatter it
- Location
- Asheville, NC
I’m gonna plea temporary insanity, if you look at anything for too long, you’ll lose your mind haha. I got my pump all aligned with the wobble on center. It took a little grinding from the mounting holes to get it strait but I got it. I realize now that the tool for alignment is important to show you where the center of your midshaft will fall, After removing the tool I realized that my shaft wasn’t center with the tunnel and had a real duhhh moment! The tunnel has no relevance of “center” for the shaft. That’s what the tool is for. Ding dong.
With all that out of the way I’ve been making some progress. Thanks to @JetManiac for saving my a$$ and pointing out that I had assembled my midshaft/seals incorrectly. I had extra seals and got that sorted, so now I’m pressing the shaft back into the housing. Before I did, @Harbor mentioned a way to check my spline engagement. Since I had the shaft out I figured I would see how deep the shaft can go before bottoming out, marked it and measured it. I came up with about 31.5mm from the end of the shaft to bottom out. I understand that it is necessary to give at least 5mm clearance before bottoming out, with that said the stock spec for the shaft is 19.5mm exposed from the back of the housing. Should I adjust my depth accordingly for this shaft or run the stock 19.5mm? I have heard the midshaft splines aren’t as long as the shaft itself, so this might be unnecessary. What do you think?
With all that out of the way I’ve been making some progress. Thanks to @JetManiac for saving my a$$ and pointing out that I had assembled my midshaft/seals incorrectly. I had extra seals and got that sorted, so now I’m pressing the shaft back into the housing. Before I did, @Harbor mentioned a way to check my spline engagement. Since I had the shaft out I figured I would see how deep the shaft can go before bottoming out, marked it and measured it. I came up with about 31.5mm from the end of the shaft to bottom out. I understand that it is necessary to give at least 5mm clearance before bottoming out, with that said the stock spec for the shaft is 19.5mm exposed from the back of the housing. Should I adjust my depth accordingly for this shaft or run the stock 19.5mm? I have heard the midshaft splines aren’t as long as the shaft itself, so this might be unnecessary. What do you think?
Assemble midshaft with shaft press through at 20mm to start. Stock spec is 19.5-20.5mm.
Then put some grease on driveshaft splines, but only on the front 1/2 inside the splines only.
Then bolt up the midshaft. Remove it and see where the grease spread to, which shows the exact overlap if done correctly. If not clear, remove midshaft, remove grease from splines. Retry. Underlap of approx 3/16" is a good goal, which is more engagment than on a stock SJ. You can then press midshaft less or more as needed, but be careful not to over press midshaft and destroy the bearing.
If shaft is pressed much deeper than stock, we add an extra coupler thrust washer to restore coupler to stock location.
Then put some grease on driveshaft splines, but only on the front 1/2 inside the splines only.
Then bolt up the midshaft. Remove it and see where the grease spread to, which shows the exact overlap if done correctly. If not clear, remove midshaft, remove grease from splines. Retry. Underlap of approx 3/16" is a good goal, which is more engagment than on a stock SJ. You can then press midshaft less or more as needed, but be careful not to over press midshaft and destroy the bearing.
If shaft is pressed much deeper than stock, we add an extra coupler thrust washer to restore coupler to stock location.
- Location
- Asheville, NC
Ohhhh didn’t even think about coupler engagement! Great advice, thank you. Also by under lap you mean the amount the grease didn’t reach towards the back?
- Location
- Asheville, NC
Making some progress, I was able to start reinstalling my motor mounts and tabs, battery box and even set up my new tank and fuel petcock. I am using Tygon fuel tubing for my fuel lines, which is made for use with gasoline and lubricants.
- Location
- Asheville, NC
Since I am running the Cold Fusion tank, I decided to make myself some block off plates for the old gas fill hole. I decided not to close it up with fiberglass in case I ever wanted to use a stock tank. I made 2 plates out of aluminum and 2 stock filler neck gaskets. 1 for the inside and 1 for the outside. Put a lil silicone on them and bolted it in. 
Next up is my handlepole mount... turns out it is missing the collar for holding the cable guide. This turned out to be a good thing because I was able to find a 1.5” to 2” plumbing fitting that would accept the stock cable guide. With some dremel cuts and sanding I was able to make a really nice fitting piece. The fitting had a lip inside from where it is formed together, it created a perfect surface for the groove on the stock cable guide and is really a tight fit... I was impressed with how this came out!!
Next up is my handlepole mount... turns out it is missing the collar for holding the cable guide. This turned out to be a good thing because I was able to find a 1.5” to 2” plumbing fitting that would accept the stock cable guide. With some dremel cuts and sanding I was able to make a really nice fitting piece. The fitting had a lip inside from where it is formed together, it created a perfect surface for the groove on the stock cable guide and is really a tight fit... I was impressed with how this came out!!
