550sx to 750 "All or Nothing" build

Myself

manic mechanic
Location
Twin Lakes AR
Thinking ahead......I drilled and tapped the cases for a 650 stator. Just in case, for future use if necessary.
 

Attachments

  • GOPR1576.JPG
    GOPR1576.JPG
    105.8 KB · Views: 76
  • GOPR1577.JPG
    GOPR1577.JPG
    100.3 KB · Views: 61

Myself

manic mechanic
Location
Twin Lakes AR
This high compression R&D head had been previously damaged. And it looks like somebody took a sanding disc on a die grinder to clean it up. Which of course ruined the dome. The edge was also dinged up enough to allow leakage. So.... since it was basically scrap metal I reworked it today. I clamped it down in the mill, recut the squish to a slightly different angle, then milled the whole surface flat. After that I cut in "PWCr's fast burn mod". If you get it.......you get it. If not, it's my take on "Singhs grooves". This will allow more compression without risk of detonation AND allow lower octane fuel. In case anybody is wondering.........YES, I've done this before. Finally verified the cc to make sure I got it where I wanted it.
 

Attachments

  • GOPR1578.JPG
    GOPR1578.JPG
    127.9 KB · Views: 49
  • GOPR1579.JPG
    GOPR1579.JPG
    114.7 KB · Views: 47
  • GOPR1584.JPG
    GOPR1584.JPG
    104.4 KB · Views: 51
  • GOPR1585.JPG
    GOPR1585.JPG
    137.6 KB · Views: 56
  • GOPR1587.JPG
    GOPR1587.JPG
    135.8 KB · Views: 58

WFO Speedracer

A lifetime ban is like a lifetime warranty !
Location
Alabama
This high compression R&D head had been previously damaged. And it looks like somebody took a sanding disc on a die grinder to clean it up. Which of course ruined the dome. The edge was also dinged up enough to allow leakage. So.... since it was basically scrap metal I reworked it today. I clamped it down in the mill, recut the squish to a slightly different angle, then milled the whole surface flat. After that I cut in "PWCr's fast burn mod". If you get it.......you get it. If not, it's my take on "Singhs grooves". This will allow more compression without risk of detonation AND allow lower octane fuel. In case anybody is wondering.........YES, I've done this before. Finally verified the cc to make sure I got it where I wanted it.
Kinda like the old Ocean Pro heads huh
 

Myself

manic mechanic
Location
Twin Lakes AR
Sort of.... I feel like the 'pocket' of a dome will tumble and swirl a mixture all on it's own, and their design likely helped induce more swirl AFTER combustion. With my mod, the grooves will induce a swirl and increase velocity as the piston reaches TDC....'fast burn'. Then after combustion the same effect happens again as the increased energy forces the spent gasses outward. The swirling motion helps those gasses exit quicker than a tumbling/confused motion would. At least.........in theory lol! But hey, my stockish tuned 650sx is running almost 44mph with a 250# rider and tiny 28mm carb so it MUST work right?
 
Last edited:

WFO Speedracer

A lifetime ban is like a lifetime warranty !
Location
Alabama
Sort of.... I feel like the 'pocker' of a dome will tumble and swirl a mixture all on it's own, and their design likely helped induce more swirl AFTER combustion. With my mod, the grooves will induce a swirl and increase velocity as the piston reaches TDC....'fast burn'. Then after combustion the same effect happens again as the increased energy forces the spent gasses outward. The swirling motion helps those gasses exit quicker than a tumbling/confused motion would. At least.........in theory lol! But hey, my stockish tuned 650sx is running almost 44mph with a 250# rider and tiny 28mm carb so it MUST work right?
Sounds right to me lol
 

Myself

manic mechanic
Location
Twin Lakes AR
I stripped the e-box down to paint and replace the plastic fittings with nice alloy ones.
 

Attachments

  • GOPR1589.JPG
    GOPR1589.JPG
    119.8 KB · Views: 38
  • GOPR1590.JPG
    GOPR1590.JPG
    149.4 KB · Views: 28
  • GOPR1591.JPG
    GOPR1591.JPG
    153 KB · Views: 35

Myself

manic mechanic
Location
Twin Lakes AR
I had some parts blasted and almost ready for paint but the weather has been too cold to hook up the hose and wash 'em. I did that yesterday and got some parts painted today. I can't reveal my secret technique but that headpipe IS painted, NOT ceramic coated.
 

Attachments

  • GOPR1625.JPG
    GOPR1625.JPG
    150.1 KB · Views: 34
  • GOPR1627.JPG
    GOPR1627.JPG
    159.5 KB · Views: 34
  • GOPR1628.JPG
    GOPR1628.JPG
    151 KB · Views: 33
  • GOPR1629.JPG
    GOPR1629.JPG
    167.6 KB · Views: 33

Myself

manic mechanic
Location
Twin Lakes AR
I cleaned and wire wheeled threads on all the hardware today. I also cut, drilled, painted, and assembled the jet pump with the new 10/16 'Hooker' impeller. Hard to see in the pics but the paint is a metallic charcoal.
 

Attachments

  • GOPR1652.JPG
    GOPR1652.JPG
    142.9 KB · Views: 23
  • GOPR1653.JPG
    GOPR1653.JPG
    97.4 KB · Views: 20
  • GOPR1633.JPG
    GOPR1633.JPG
    115.7 KB · Views: 20
  • GOPR1630.JPG
    GOPR1630.JPG
    86.6 KB · Views: 19
  • GOPR1632.JPG
    GOPR1632.JPG
    118.2 KB · Views: 20
  • GOPR1631.JPG
    GOPR1631.JPG
    119.9 KB · Views: 20

Myself

manic mechanic
Location
Twin Lakes AR
I got everything test fitted underneath. Some trimming/ grinding here and there was necessary but not unexpected. The 750 pump is a snug fit in there.
 

Attachments

  • GOPR1655.JPG
    GOPR1655.JPG
    92.1 KB · Views: 24
  • GOPR1654.JPG
    GOPR1654.JPG
    93 KB · Views: 25
  • GOPR1656.JPG
    GOPR1656.JPG
    89 KB · Views: 28

Myself

manic mechanic
Location
Twin Lakes AR
I measured out and fit the front sponsons (tubbies) yesterday. The instructions tell you to start screwing them down in the center and work out. I think that's a TERRIBLE idea! That IS NOT the answer to mediocre quality parts. I cut some scrap wood blocks to position these, and used ratchet straps to hold them to the hull with slight tension. Then I cranked my heat gun to 700* and started going back and forth. You can hear them start creaking and popping. After a couple minutes I cranked the ratchet straps down and kept waving my magic wand until the noises stopped. Then just let it sit there and cool down for 30 minutes. Look at the wrinkling in those close-ups.......IF YOU screw these on like the manufacturer wants you to.....you're just asking for them to come loose in the long run. There will be A LOT OF TENSION on them like that! And all that glue holding them on......mostly attached to the foam which will just pull off from the inside. Just an all around hack job. One had a lot of tension in a small area. The other had the tension spread over 15" or so. They are destressed now and I sanded a slight concave shape into the back so they actually fit snug against the hull.
 

Attachments

  • GOPR1659.JPG
    GOPR1659.JPG
    111.1 KB · Views: 33
  • GOPR1664.JPG
    GOPR1664.JPG
    62.8 KB · Views: 31
  • GOPR1662.JPG
    GOPR1662.JPG
    69.4 KB · Views: 31
  • GOPR1661.JPG
    GOPR1661.JPG
    68.8 KB · Views: 30
  • GOPR1660.JPG
    GOPR1660.JPG
    69.1 KB · Views: 40

WFO Speedracer

A lifetime ban is like a lifetime warranty !
Location
Alabama
I measured out and fit the front sponsons (tubbies) yesterday. The instructions tell you to start screwing them down in the center and work out. I think that's a TERRIBLE idea! That IS NOT the answer to mediocre quality parts. I cut some scrap wood blocks to position these, and used ratchet straps to hold them to the hull with slight tension. Then I cranked my heat gun to 700* and started going back and forth. You can hear them start creaking and popping. After a couple minutes I cranked the ratchet straps down and kept waving my magic wand until the noises stopped. Then just let it sit there and cool down for 30 minutes. Look at the wrinkling in those close-ups.......IF YOU screw these on like the manufacturer wants you to.....you're just asking for them to come loose in the long run. There will be A LOT OF TENSION on them like that! And all that glue holding them on......mostly attached to the foam which will just pull off from the inside. Just an all around hack job. One had a lot of tension in a small area. The other had the tension spread over 15" or so. They are destressed now and I sanded a slight concave shape into the back so they actually fit snug against the hull.
This is why I am considering making tubbies for 300SX's that actually fit the contours of the ski . I am not sure if there are enough 300SX guys out there to support that enterprise but we will see.
 

Myself

manic mechanic
Location
Twin Lakes AR
The bilge is ready for some work! SOooooo, many crevices......you really just have to do all this sanding by hand. My fingers are so stiff right now!
 

Attachments

  • GOPR1697.JPG
    GOPR1697.JPG
    130.1 KB · Views: 30
  • GOPR1698.JPG
    GOPR1698.JPG
    78.9 KB · Views: 27
  • GOPR1700.JPG
    GOPR1700.JPG
    156.2 KB · Views: 27
  • GOPR1701.JPG
    GOPR1701.JPG
    106.8 KB · Views: 27

WFO Speedracer

A lifetime ban is like a lifetime warranty !
Location
Alabama
Get yourself some LA awesome cleaner , it's cheap and pretty strong, I would say get some Mrs goodhands cleaner but I can't find that anymore , LA cleaner works well also just not as strong but a lot easier to find , Dollar General and Dollar tree usually carry it.
 

Myself

manic mechanic
Location
Twin Lakes AR
Get yourself some LA awesome cleaner , it's cheap and pretty strong, I would say get some Mrs goodhands cleaner but I can't find that anymore , LA cleaner works well also just not as strong but a lot easier to find , Dollar General and Dollar tree usually carry it.
Of course........I keep it in stock, that Awesome cleaner is.......well.......AWESOME!
For general parts cleaning/degreasing mix one part Awesome, one part ZEP degreaser, and 2 part water. Works better than anything I've ever used. DO NOT spray it directly on any decals, it sometimes will run or bleach out the colors.
 
Top Bottom