Super Jet 771 SuperJet Build

They didnt tell me anything, just took my cash, and if i didnt ask questions I didnt get answers, I had to send multiple emails asking about the impeller and never got a solid answer so I called Dave, wasnt overly Impressed with how things were handled...I would expect a check list but I never got one

4 tanks in and this motor hauls ass but it all to late to do any tricks lol

I bought a $700 Bpipe and it came with jetting and waterline drawings, spent $4000 at Xscream and it came with an invoice!
 

OCD Solutions

Original, Clean and Dependable Solutions
Location
Rentz, GA
I spent over $7K with them and they sent me this...

XScream SS846 Fuel Line Routing.jpg

My buddy Scott bugged them for a couple weeks and they finally sent him a spec sheet with all the numbers from his engine build. When I asked they sent me the exact same list.

What kind of F/A's are you running Matt? I run Prok's and Scott runs the OEM type with one screen and there is a significant power difference in our skis even though our engines/skis/setups are identical. He bought a set of proks and it made a huge difference in throttle response.
 

munki63

Epoxy is my duct tape
Location
Canada
What kind of F/A's are you running Matt? I run Prok's and Scott runs the OEM type with one screen and there is a significant power difference in our skis even though our engines/skis/setups are identical. He bought a set of proks and it made a huge difference in throttle response.

Post #93
I dont know what they are bought them from Hot Products, I'm assuming yours hits better?

I asked about 5-6 times before I got the curve/water specs and fuel specs.... but there was nothing special about either just normal routing, Or at least its how Ive run my lines in the past, The thing that pissed me off the most about the entire experience (other then the 1k assembly charge) was when I asked for a 2nd base gasket they wanted to charge me for it, REALLY? I assemble the motor do an air test find a leak and they want to charge me for a gasket...If I was running the show I would have provided 2 just in case
 

munki63

Epoxy is my duct tape
Location
Canada
How do the setups compare?

Hard to tell, we are both running just the MSD curve and not our builder specific curves, but so far mid range is super close I've got more pop BUT I've got a jettnetics flywheel and XJ's motor was re-built by Art and it's not his 100% port timing, so it's not a true comparison
 

munki63

Epoxy is my duct tape
Location
Canada
So I swapped my 11/17 for a 10/16 (Ive still got the stubbie on) With the 11/17 it accelerated smoothly didn't have a lot of hit, With the 10/16 I would guess the first 500-1000 RPM off idle Ive got a minor amount of hit...or it could be wishful thinking and then it just feels lazy it still accelerates good, but I dont know if its just the way the motor sounds or acts just doesn't seem quite right. First think Im going to try is putting the stock cone back on in the morning to see if that helps...

Another thing i noticed, after my first little rip with the 10/16 I came in to shore for about 5 min then took the ski out again, when I started it I cracked open the throttle and it RIPPED and i thought to myself FINALLY....BUT it was short lived, the next time I blipped the throttle I got the typical response I ended getting all night

Any thoughts....
 

D-Roc

I forgot!
plug readings and piston wash check? your probably rich. as our temps have been rising, my screws have been turning to keep my ski from feeling lazy. should have got the tbm skat, lol.
 

munki63

Epoxy is my duct tape
Location
Canada
Just checked them and they are cleaner then the pict on the left....I actually could eat off of my pistons, So would that be jetting or screw settings?
 

munki63

Epoxy is my duct tape
Location
Canada
Ive been running the ATP Curve, Im about 6 tanks on my motor, Everything other then the timing curve and impeller is xmetal spec
 

D-Roc

I forgot!
that will be a good curve. you are on the rich/safe side but not happy with the motor so you may need to clean up the jetting. i would turn all four screws in 1/8 of a turn and try the ski. see it it makes it better. the L screws are for idle but when my ski gets sluggish feeling or heat soaked feeling i adjust all four screws at their current settings all the same amount. my front and back pistons get different wash with the same jetting so i have the H screws staggered a bit to get it closer. i know guys that stagger jet the carbs so the screws can match better. depends on how picky you want to be. ideally once i achieve an easy starting ski that rips at all rpms and i have decent to rich piston wash i leave my jetting and use the screws. perfect scenario would have me at 1 turn out on all screws but i ride with air temps of 0-33+humidity. my ski feels the air temp change and needs to be corrected every few months as the spring turns to summer back to fall.
 

munki63

Epoxy is my duct tape
Location
Canada
rich/safe? there is zero carbon build up on my pistons, Im guessing 1/2 the piston should have carbon on it to be dialed in 100%?
 

D-Roc

I forgot!
if your rich you won't have a lean burn out on WOT extended runs. but you want crisp throttle so clean it up. your beyond safe and need to lean it out some. you want the your piston to show you your ports just like the middle pic.
 

munki63

Epoxy is my duct tape
Location
Canada
OK, So I tinkered with the carbs today I would say the top is where it needs to be. But now when I hammer on the throttle it goes Brrrrrrrrrrrrap is that loading up or should I toss the stock cone in? its like my carbs are wet for a sec then they are instantly clear, and the hesitation isnt always exactly the same just before I called it quits for the night I got a nice long hesitation but I was on and off the throttle consistently just to see if anything would change
 

D-Roc

I forgot!
loading up is when you ride at 1/4 throttle on plane for 20-30 seconds and the ski either starts to loose rpms or just getting boggy. after 30 seconds if you pull wot and it bogs and blubbers but slightly gains rpms and then clears out, you rich. if it feels like a hesitation and you hit the stop button for a sec, then revs out your lean. leave you pump alone, the stubby cone will make your pump slip, not cause a hesitation or a rich bog.
 

munki63

Epoxy is my duct tape
Location
Canada
So I fixed my cab setting...or at least its much better, I was lean on the bottom, I'm 5/8 out on the top and 1-7/8 turns out on the bottom, I was turning out the top just as a storm rolled in...So much for Xmetal wrench free set-up's, Im going to try and play with it some more in the morning
 
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