B-pipe cooling, routing water lines

[WaveDemon]

the easiest way to back flush it to go to home depot and buy the fittings and hoses to create a tee (if you have 2 pissers) with hoses small enough to fit into your pissers and flush it backwards of normal flow.

 

[hangtime]

The easiest way is to buy one from Blowsion :biggthumpup:
http://www.blowsion.com/detail.asp?PRODUCT_ID=AWAC172

 

[Superjeff]

no thats the most expensive haha...well I just ripped off a gp1200r flush kit and converted the half inch hose down to 3/8 Id so I think im good with that...Does anone ever flush theire skis in the water??? or ill just pick it up or something haha...how long does it take to flush all the way through syste?m how long shoudli flush??? yeah yeah till the turds are gone haha but really

 

[WaveDemon]

you can't flush in the water. it should take about 5 min to flush your ski.

 

[Superjeff]

thanks wavedemon ur seriously like instantaneous with ur posts gotta love that...but yeah i thought about flushing in the water and realized how stupid that was haha...guess im still new does it show?

 

[WaveDemon]

no biggie. we all start sometime. I don't know where you ride but if it's fresh water I wouldn't worry about flushing. Some people will say to flush in fresh too but I wouldn't.

 

[Superjeff]

yah i ride fresh water all days of year but first time ocean riding on sunday in florida keys and I just decided to take skis on tues so i needed flush kit stat...pumped for ocean riding....

 

[michael950]

What is the dealio with the restrictors, I thought that was the jet works flow control valve. Is the restrictor the bypass (pisser)?

 

[Prem1x]

What is the dealio with the restrictors, I thought that was the jet works flow control valve. Is the restrictor the bypass (pisser)?

Post #19 has some pics for you. A smaller bypass fitting is basically a restrictor. Anything with non-moving parts placed into the waterlines would be considered a restrictor. If it has moving parts, like springs or balls, then its a valve (which variably restricts).

 

[Prem1x]

What I'm getting at is giving a reason like "because so and so said to" doesn't hold up very well, it's better to get to know the real reasons behind stuff. The tee'd leg will have less pressure, therefore less water. If you were using a Y, then both legs would see equal pressure and it wouldn't matter.

Less water to the waterbox by using the tee'd leg might work for some setups. Sending the straight leg to the waterbox gives more water and actually provides better top speed. Putting a FC-valve in between can give you a better scenario where you have less water at lower RPM's giving better response. I'd use the straight leg and a valve to the stinger/box, but that's me.

 

[THRUST]

the way you have it described in number 3 is almost the way i have it the only difference is i have the bottom of the tee going to the stinger so less water is being dumped in there and a 2.0 carb n/s in the bottom . for freestyle it is great i have set up about 50 boats like that and never had a problemn

 

[FLY6584]

After reading this thread I am more confused than ever. I'm installing my bpipe tomorrow and I need to know how to run the cooling lines.

I'm running single cooling with an ADA Girdled head (35cc) and a jetworks control valve.

Which one of these diagrams will work for my setup?

Nevermind I think I figured it out.

Thanks,
Dan

 

[2lick]

edit

 

[wishihad]

Factory Dry Pipe

:hijacked: Ok so what about a dry pipe? The directions from FactoryPipe below

http://www.factorypipe.com/media/instructions/yamaha/701sj04.pdf

describe the top drawing (attached) labeled "A" but based on what I'm reading and considering that I have a dual tapped riva head, I'm leaning toward the bottom drawing "B". Whatcha think?:banghead:
Thanks

I have a factory dry pipe similar to the on linked below:
http://www.pwctoday.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=5785&d=1114899034

 

[Fathom]

I think you should tap your pump for a second line to the exhaust manifold and run a separate circuit. You'll have one coming from the pump to the manifold, out the head to the pipe following drawing B from there. The second one will come from the pump to the manifold, out the head to a restricter and out the pisser.

 

[wishihad]

I think you should tap your pump for a second line to the exhaust manifold and run a separate circuit. You'll have one coming from the pump to the manifold, out the head to the pipe following drawing B from there. The second one will come from the pump to the manifold, out the head to a restricter and out the pisser.

Would you add the second circuit for reliability or for greater water volume/flow? It looks to me like a single feed should be enough atleast for diagram "A". So I was going to wait to add the 2nd circuit until I took the ski down in July, when i had planned to do the hull reinforcement. For now I'm trying to get in the water ASAP. But, I'm not sure if there will be enough water flow to plumb it like pic "B" with a single feed.
Thanks

 

[Fathom]

I would do it for reliability/redundancy. Are you using a high compression head? If not, you'll have enough cooling water using method B for now and then split the circuit when you take it back down and get the head milled at the same time.

 

[wishihad]

... Are you using a high compression head?...

Yeah, I'm running a Riva that should give around 180. Damit, I want to ride this thing, not work on it! Ok, I'll put the other F-in cooling line in...

Life would be alot easier if everyone would just lie to me and tell me what I want to hear.

 

[oxnard111]

Life would be alot easier if everyone would just lie to me and tell me what I want to hear.

I do that for the fiancee all the time. My life is easy as pie. J/K :biggrin:

 

[Kyle.]

ive got a b pipe and im running dual cooling. my chamber is getting hot...really hot. what am i doing wrong??