B-pipe cooling, routing water lines

hangtime

Speak up ,don't kiss azz
The chamber only gets water through the adjusting screws right .Only the manifold and head pipe get cooling water from the cooling lines
try opening up your top screw a bit to let more water go through the chamber .
 

Frosty

New York Crew
Location
Western New York
Kyle, try opening the allen adjustment screws a little more and see if it cools down... if not, then you may have a clog somewhere. I had some seaweed and sand get clogged around one of the adjustment screws on the headpipe which caused my chamber to get hot. I pulled the head pipe off, pulled the screws out and ran a thin gage wire through each whole to clean them out thoroughly.

Also, i have had sand and seaweed get clogged around the brass fitting on the cooling line coming into the head pipe which was easy to clean.

do a thorough check of all cooling lines... you'll find your problem.
 
Location
FL
I think I am going to run my dual cooling with one line going to the exhaust mani and the other going to the pipe so I can keep the circuits separate. My question is how are you guys flushing your skis? Wouldn't you need a flush hose going to both the pipe and motor separately?
 

freestylegeek

waiting...
Location
Grand Rapids, MI
I think I am going to run my dual cooling with one line going to the exhaust mani and the other going to the pipe so I can keep the circuits separate. My question is how are you guys flushing your skis? Wouldn't you need a flush hose going to both the pipe and motor separately?

I have always run that same set up (hot motor, cold pipe) and I use a back-flushing valve like the one Blowsion sells. I make one of my own from parts at the hardware store.
 
Location
FL
I understand the backflushing valve. With this setup you would have two pissers, one from the motor and one from the pipe. Do you just alternate which pisser you have the hose in every 20 seconds or so?
 

hangtime

Speak up ,don't kiss azz
I understand the backflushing valve. With this setup you would have two pissers, one from the motor and one from the pipe. Do you just alternate which pisser you have the hose in every 20 seconds or so?



The backflusher has 3 outlets to go into each pisser at the same time .
That's how I flush too and is the best way to flush
 

Philip Clemmons

Owner, P&P Performance
Location
Richmond, Va
Did a little more reading on the subject from various sources. Went through installation info for the b-pipe, dual cooling install and bypass instructions from protec and this is what I think is one of the best set ups b/c (IMO):

-If a line gets clogged both the cylinders and head pipe still get water from 1 line and it should easily keep them cool enough.
-Warms the water before it hits head pipe
-Should provide nearly equal cooling of front and rear cylinder b/c flow out of both outlets on the head should be close to the same.
-still allows for fine tuning temp of cylinders w/ the use of restrictors and a full size pisser comming out of the head, or just by using a 6mm pisser.

All mentioned methods would work so I guess its just a matter of preference. I would not run the first couple diagrams that I put up though........mount flow control valve after bypass, we all agree on that one :)

**below are some pics of different parts like pissers, adjustable restrictors and different pisser sizes that act as restrictors. The diagrams illustrate routing the cooling lines.

Where is this last valve purchased? (bottom left)
 

KR

www.krlines.com
I read 4 pages, and it seems that everyone has their own personal preference. does the original diagram work? Do I "need" to run a T fitting at the end of the stinger to the pisser?
 

GIL

Power In The Hands Of Few
Location
Cullman AL
Here is my set up,

left cooling inlet tube blocked off
right cooling inlet tube blocked off
cooling line from back of head to frt of head
cooling line from bottom of head pipe to top of head pipe
cooling line from frt of manifold to back of manfold
cooling system filled w/50/50 mixture of iso alcohol and freezemax
 

WRX Dave

Freestyle poser
Finishing up a new engine installation, and I'm wondering about the bypass off the head. It's a stock 61x with a b-pipe, single cooling. I had a second outlet for a bypass on the head of my last engine, but my new one just has the single outlet. Should I just run everything from the head to the pipe, then split the line before the stinger to go to a pisser(1)? Or should I either T-off the line coming from the head to make a bypass (2) or drill a new bypass hole on the head (3)?


I'd rather not drill and tap the new head since I don't have a new head gasket handy, but if that's the best option I'll go with it.
 

Attachments

  • SJ Cooling.JPG
    SJ Cooling.JPG
    40 KB · Views: 510

#ZERO

Beach Bum
Location
Florida - U.S.A.
Figure 1 would be fine if it's a stock head with stock compression.

Figure 3 would be better if the compression has been increased by milling the head.
 

WRX Dave

Freestyle poser
Thanks, it's a stock head. I just wanted to make sure that sending all the water through the pipe wouldn't cause too much backpressure and prevent proper cylinder cooling.
 
Top Bottom