The sides of the 750 don’t need to carry load of starter via ring gear to the crank, so I can make them thinner. The ring rear is also smaller on the 750, I think, so it would weigh less. It’s easy to identify the 750 flywheel you need visually. And again, how accurate is your welding going to be? Think you need to go back to checking if you can bolt the 750 stator to the 650... You’re over complicating something that’s already done.
Well I can't really argue the 650 vs 750 weight, but I can certainly say that its alot easier/cheaper to use 650 parts than 750 parts, and given what I'm trying to do, that has value to me.
I could be missing something, but can't you account for any "welding inaccuracy" with a dial indicator and the static angle offset of the CDI? I suppose if you didnt get the two lobes at exactly 180 apart that would be an issue. But this is where "measure twice cut once" comes into play. Or better yet, I think I have access to a water jet so might be easier to just get a trigger wheel made up and weld that inside the flywheel to be sure that the lobes are perfect. Either way, I think its a solveable problem.
Aren't the pickups for 750's mounted on the covers? I wouldn't need the stator as I'm going for total loss here. Off hand I want to say you can swap covers between them, so yes, the correct small pin flywheel lightened + cover and pickup would be the optimal solution. Just curious how much work it would really be to cook something up thats based on the 650 and doesn't require hunting down the perfect flywheel.
