Freestyle Krash 50 Cal Footrocket Kit

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Big Kahuna

Administrator
Location
Tuscaloosa, AL
uh, you could call it that, but I could see resistance being a better word here. Like the Lev"Her" might be saying Stop, I dont like that, not comfortable when you pull that. You would be getting resistance then.
 

chixwithtrix

Addicted
Location
Houston
Ok, no action on the ski today since I'm at work...but I've been filing through threads researching stuff I'm unsure about.
Might get to ripping out the pump stuff tomorrow, might make a video of it for Part 3 in the series, we'll see how motivated I feel. JetManiac order should be here by Monday.

Questions:
- I bought an ADA billet coupler; from my research looks like I need to anti-seize the threads and just thread them on the engine and midshaft?
- Best way to remove old coupler on the engine side? Can I buy the CF flywheel locking tool and an OEM coupler removal tool on Blowsion and have it work right?
- Removing the Krash pump shoe, just slide a razor and remove it?
- What about cleaning and prepping the hull for the new shoe. I bought a Worx shoe for the 148mm pump, what kind of fitment am I looking at having to do with these particular parts?
- Any tips for installing a pump shoe in a Krash hull? I searched threads, but some of them are old and have mixed reviews on the process.
 
Location
Plano, TX
Questions:
- I bought an ADA billet coupler; from my research looks like I need to anti-seize the threads and just thread them on the engine and midshaft?
- Best way to remove old coupler on the engine side? Can I buy the CF flywheel locking tool and an OEM coupler removal tool on Blowsion and have it work right?

A flywheel lock is a great thing to have in your tool box. Definitely buy it. You can always use small nylon rope to stop your piston but you have to be smart about it. Bring your rear cylinder to tdc then rotate your flywheel counter clockwise a little bit but not enough to open the exhaust port. Fill cylinder with rope through the spark plug hole then rotate flywheel clockwise and it will stop when the rope hits the head. Then unscrew coupler. I would tighten the couplers fairly tight when you install them



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CF locking tool, a 2x4 and a generous amount of heat. Or the coupler removal tool I suppose. I have one, never used it.

Sand out all of the old adhesive. Not sure on fitment for that hull, but a lot of times the shoe will hang down a little bit and might need to be machined some. Install the shoe with your new pump all shimmed up and aligned.


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Location
Plano, TX
You can check out my current building thread. My shoe hung down about 1/4" past the bottom of the hull before I had it machined


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chixwithtrix

Addicted
Location
Houston
You can check out my current building thread. My shoe hung down about 1/4" past the bottom of the hull before I had it machined
Dayum that was some epic machineage!

Once again my newbness is going to get in the way...but how can you install the pump shoe with the pump aligned? Doesn't the shoe have to go in before the pump?
 

Big Kahuna

Administrator
Location
Tuscaloosa, AL
Find out where you need the shims. Remove pump. Apply your sealant to pump shoe. Then proceed install pump, using it as a jig to place shoe where it need to be. This will make the mating surface match up perfectly.

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x2mafia

Maximum effort
Location
WA
I did the rope trick and I used a pry bar on the kavinci coupler lol but on the oem coupler a 2x4 fits puuuurrrrfect

On the kavinci pump shoe just razor blade all areas you can get it it in. It's a tight fit but luckily your shoe hasn't been in there long. What I did was cut all areas I could then bolted the wear ring stator nozzle back on with he 4 bolts running into the shoe. Put the stator in backwards so the driveshaft is sticking out the back of the ski through the steering nozzle. Snug the 4 long bolts down. GENTLY use the shaft of the pump to pry up down side to side to get the shoe to come unstuck
 

Yami-Rider

TigerCraft FV-PRO
Location
Texoma
I have use many different adhesives to glue in shoes, sikaflex 291 seems to be the best imo, comes in white or black, doesn't sag.
I also had to cut out the shoe in my new ski, I just used a razor blade knife with a long blade.

Coupler removal, I use the cold-fusion locking tool and a wide tip/long pry bar, hold pressure, then hit the bar with a sledge hammer close to the coupler, I have removed atleast 50 couplers this way, no issues. Your want to secure the motor to the bench or have someone hold the engine.

Install, anti-sieze and do not over tighten, I think spec is 30ft-lbs, the engine tightens the couplers as it runs, over tighten is just harder to remove later.


This is from my build thread earlier this year.

I did the duct shoe install a little different this time. I used screws for alignment, they kept the shoe where I wanted it, then I used 3 washers behind the top of the shoe to insure the shoe doesn't get overly pressed in during alignment.
I use sikaflex 291.

View attachment 299303

Applied sikaflex then reinstalled shoe, I kept the screws a little loose, so the shoe could float tighter against the pump.
Nice tight seal, no daylight.

View attachment 299304

Cold-fusion tool. Ended up needing a .030" shim for midshaft/bulkhead alignment.

View attachment 299305

The pump needed a .010" shim and .080" shim

View attachment 299306
 
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